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Wookiee22

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Everything posted by Wookiee22

  1. Having finally got the car ready for Germany (headlights changed, fog and reverse lights changed, 4 new tyres) I figured all was pretty much set for some relatively trouble free motoring. This lasted until the exit ramp of the ferry, bit of a clunk and a dramatic increase in exhaust noise. On inspection it turns out that the weld where the mid section meets the flange before the backbox has come completley apart. Cue a 350-odd mile drive with a noise like thunder from the back of the car! So then, new exhaust required! I'm after something that isn't too loud and looks relatively oem. Having looked around here I'm reckoning on either a K2 or a scorpion. What do people think? There's a bit of time pressure attached too - I have to get it through an inspection in the next couple of weeks...
  2. It should be within one of the books in the Zed's wallet. Looks like a tick sheet with the different components for P1/2/3.
  3. Thanks very much guys! I'll have a good root around under the battery tray, if I get no luck there I'll PM R35LEE or get the cable ties out...
  4. Have just had the battery changed on my Z, this is a good thing as the Nissan unit had given up the ghost after a whole 2 years of use and jump starting was getting to be a touch tiresome. Needless to say the local main dealer was not particularly sympathetic so I went elsewhere. Anyhow, this is not supposed to be a rant so I shall continue... The technician discovered that the rear part of the mounting bracket (the nut and bolt nearest the windscreen that holds the black metal plate over the battery) was missing. Clearly they missed this at the MOT 3 weeks ago as apparently a non-fixed battery is cause for failure. Anyone have a spare or know the best place to get one without having to resort to the damned main stealers? Thanks! Andy
  5. OK, so there are other choices, but how could you not go for that lovely varnished look? Click Apologies if this is a repost!
  6. I'm quite tempted by this, although the girlfriend would kill me. I guess this is a bit outside my ability to install, how much do you reckon for a garage to fit? Clearly I'll have to deal with the other half as well..,
  7. Think everyone likes a good debate. Would request that you leave your finger off the shift key though, reading lots of capitals is a bit of a chore.
  8. Having had the front bumper off a couple of days ago to fit some EU spec headlights, decided I should probably get around to whipping off the rear bumper as well. Picked a dry spell yesterday and followed the guide here: http://www.350z-tech.com/zwiki/Rear_Bumper_Removal Didn't prove to be too difficult, I recommend laying a bit of carpet down under the car to prevent scratches if you don't have a second pair of hands to assist when you need to disconnect the lights when the bumper eventually slides off. The only casualty was my cheap and nasty Draper crawler that snapped in half when I sat on it. Hmm. I was tempted to have a crack at clearing out the oem unit (as in the Guides section) but didn't want to risk melting anything and being stuck without a legal car! Instead I got a couple of clear units from US eBay. The reason for wanting to do all this wasn't really cosmetics, instead I needed to switch the fog light over to the left (and reverse to the right) and be able to switch them back to normal without the rigmarole of bumber removal. This was achieved with some very simple crossover wiring behend the bumper and bullet connectors to allow it to be switched easily. Got hold of a red LED light for the foglight and just swapped over the reverse light. All very simple! While the bumper was off I had a crack at polishing up the tailpipes too! Anyway, this is how it looks now: The wiring is really very simple and I can't think off too many people who would have any need for such a mod, but if there's any interest drop me a PM and I'll put some pictures up. Next on the card is fixing a dashboard rattle, then I reckon we're ready to export to Germany!
  9. +1 Looks like the kind of thing you'd see on the back of a Corsa! Loving the profile though.
  10. Not so sure that really constitutes a sleeper though. Although I'm a fan of the two-wheeled approach.
  11. Not so sure that really constitutes a sleeper though. Although I'm a fan of the two-wheeled approach.
  12. Right then. Had a few hours over the past couple of evenings to sort this out, and so far no explosions or flames - although in fairness the N20 bottle hasn't been filled yet! The bottle itself is currently sitting in the spare wheel well in the boot, held down by a couple of straps. Not entirely happy with this system yet, it definitely needs some work although I'm not too keen to splash out on proper bottle mounts just yet. The straps actually hold the 5kg bottle pretty securely so there's little risk of it banging about and getting damaged. Anyway, a few photos: The Beast! She could certainly do with a wash, but I think that just adds to the sleeper look Routing the nitrous hose. Comes through the boot and runs under the trim next to the seats. Then goes through the bulkhead via a cable conduit. The engine bay. Will get hold of some covers from the wiring rather than just leaving them exposed. Have used bullet connectors on all the wiring so it's easily reconfigurable if necessary. 'Borrowing' the WOT switch. Also shows the wiring and N2O hose coming through the bulkhead. Wiring inside to the progressive controller. Not particularly neat, but will be tidied up easily enough. Still not decided exactly where the controller will live yet. Pulsoids in place. Shows the fuel line from the test-port and the injector added just before the throttle body. Had to be quite careful to ensure that the lines didn't interfere with the throttle cabling at all. The slight issue with this placement is that it gets pretty hot here - considering adding in some ducting to channel air from behind the grill. Very subtle arming switch on the dash. Also the controller sparks to life when the system is armed. While I was taking pictures... Next step is to get hold of some N2O and begin doing some proper testing. Have done some dry runs with just the fuelling (makes the mixture very rich but at least shows that it's working!) so I'm happy that the system is good to go. I'd actually forgotten how rapid in a straight line the car is anway, it's had a remap that lifts the turbo pressure and I can't wait to see what happens with all that extra fuel and oxygen flying about... Anyone know a good place to get the bottle filled? I could do with finding a place near Suffolk, Nottingham or Birmingham. Ideas? Will get some videos up when I do the first proper tests. I'm guessing unbelievable torque steer!
  13. Right then. Had a few hours over the past couple of evenings to sort this out, and so far no explosions or flames - although in fairness the N20 bottle hasn't been filled yet! The bottle itself is currently sitting in the spare wheel well in the boot, held down by a couple of straps. Not entirely happy with this system yet, it definitely needs some work although I'm not too keen to splash out on proper bottle mounts just yet. The straps actually hold the 5kg bottle pretty securely so there's little risk of it banging about and getting damaged. Anyway, a few photos: The Beast! She could certainly do with a wash, but I think that just adds to the sleeper look Routing the nitrous hose. Comes through the boot and runs under the trim next to the seats. Then goes through the bulkhead via a cable conduit. The engine bay. Will get hold of some covers from the wiring rather than just leaving them exposed. Have used bullet connectors on all the wiring so it's easily reconfigurable if necessary. 'Borrowing' the WOT switch. Also shows the wiring and N2O hose coming through the bulkhead. Wiring inside to the progressive controller. Not particularly neat, but will be tidied up easily enough. Still not decided exactly where the controller will live yet. Pulsoids in place. Shows the fuel line from the test-port and the injector added just before the throttle body. Had to be quite careful to ensure that the lines didn't interfere with the throttle cabling at all. The slight issue with this placement is that it gets pretty hot here - considering adding in some ducting to channel air from behind the grill. Very subtle arming switch on the dash. Also the controller sparks to life when the system is armed. While I was taking pictures... Next step is to get hold of some N2O and begin doing some proper testing. Have done some dry runs with just the fuelling (makes the mixture very rich but at least shows that it's working!) so I'm happy that the system is good to go. I'd actually forgotten how rapid in a straight line the car is anway, it's had a remap that lifts the turbo pressure and I can't wait to see what happens with all that extra fuel and oxygen flying about... Anyone know a good place to get the bottle filled? I could do with finding a place near Suffolk, Nottingham or Birmingham. Ideas? Will get some videos up when I do the first proper tests. I'm guessing unbelievable torque steer!
  14. Just had my P3 done at Marshalls Bury St Edmunds. £240 inc VAT. Supplied own oil. They originally quoted £299 but I beat them down! Very friendly, had a good chat regarding my impending move to Germany and seem to have done a decent job on the car. Require new pads and tyres soon and one of the belts is looking a little worn but nothing serious. All in all I was quite impressed!
  15. Well, no mushroom clouds over the Suffolk horizon yet. Progress has been slow but steady. Will get pictures up when I get the chance, or rather when there's actually something a bit more interesting to get pictures of. Have changed my mind a bit about how I'm going to run the system. Decided to run the fuel from the schrader valve thing at the end of the fuel line - it's normally a pressure test port but should do the trick and means that I won't have to cut into the rubber fuel pipe and put a t piece in. Also had a rethink with regards the wot switching. Rather than bodge a microswitch on to the throttle body (spent about an hour and a lot of swearing on this - there isn't a particularly great place to mount it efficiently!) I'm going to have a look at piggybacking the wot throttle switch attached to the accelerator pedal on the engine side of the bulkhead. I think this is used to tell the ecu to kickdown but should do the trick nicely for my purposes. I may even disconnect the current system as I don't think I really want a downshift during the spray if I can avoid it. Other than that, have got the wiring through the bulkhead (not as much of a bitch as I thought it would be), have run the high pressure nitrous line from engine bay to boot - slots nicely under the trim along the driver's side and have added an innocuous looking arming switch to the dash. Have also tested all the wiring/fuses/controller/solenoids before I mount them in place. Am away for the next few days (not taking the volvo - possibly just as well as I've just flattened the battery doing all the checks!) but should be back on Thursday so will get some photos and a progress update!
  16. It's a 50bhp wet kit. I'll try and get some pictures taken of the installation. Any idea whether the fact that it's turbocharged makes much of a difference to the power gains? As for videos, will have a crack once it's in.
  17. Hi all, Inherited a '94 Maroon 850 T5 GLT estate about a year ago. Had about 110k on the clock and was in pretty good nick, was basically my daily drive until I found my Z! Following a stage 0 (pretty necessary on these) I had the ECU mapped by MTE which brought the power up a fair bit, I also installed a turbo gauge to make sure I wasn't pushing it too far. Anyway, as the car isn't really worth all that much I've decided it's going to be a bit of a project car and having picked up some Wizards of NOS gear on eBay the other day will hopefully not be blowing myself up this weekend... Will report back when I have news. Or need help!
  18. Why the two sets of solenoids? Perhaps I don't understand enough about this but I thought you'd only need a single pair for single point injection, if not, where are you positioning the crossfires?
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