Jump to content

notfub

Members
  • Posts

    270
  • Joined

  • Last visited

Posts posted by notfub

  1. why didn't you clean the commutator with a com brush and replace the carbon brush's :shrug:

     

    ...er because I don't know what a communicator is or what a com brush is. Not everyone is as clued up on electric motors mate but appreciate you posting this if it helps others rescue their motors without getting stung like me.

     

    I've a mate that knows a Nissan tech and to be fair he has suggested that I try and break open the sealed motors and replace the brushes. I'll pop the new motors in to get me mobile and see if my local auto electricians can do anything with my 52k miles old originals. If they are servicable (which seems to be the case) then I'll get them sorted and sell on with a receipt for the work. :thumbs:

  2. Having had an overheating problem while stuck in traffic last Friday, the problem was sourced to the radiator fans not spinning up (well one was but very very slowly).

     

    A good way to test that the motors are fubar'd is to run the car up to temp, give each fan motor a swift tap with a hammer and see if they spring into life. This is what happened to both my fans when testing earlier today, so replacements have been ordered from ZMANALEX :thumbs:. My local Nissan dealer wanted £335 each for the fan motors :wacko: (both motors are the same part by the way).

  3. I'd imagine it's to bring the stage higher, closer to the ear and on axis.

     

    It's not a myth, Cheaper ones yes but expensive ones do need run in especially Kevlar ones the sound usually changes and the speaker loosens up. Sending silly amounts of power to the speaker quickly might invalidate your warrenty on your expensive speakers too. The same if it's -20c you wouldn't get in and blast it. Some people say 80% of full power some people say 40% how are you planning to do it NotFub as 100hours is a long time.

     

     

    I've been advised to let the amp & speakers warm up before turning the volume up to warp factor 10. In terms of running In, it will take some time but I'm just going to be sensible with the system and most of all, enjoy the music. I'm not one to get a hard on because I can hear a string pluck BUT if the clarify and quality and weight and punch of the sound puts a smile on my face then it's mission accomplished :thumbs:

  4. Notfub,

     

    Any reason the tweeters were moved from the doors to the a-pillars, and is there much change in the soundstage from doing so? I know that'll be hard to quantify given the gulf in quality between the two setups, but I'd still be interested in the difference.

     

     

    Btw, needing to break in speakers and amps is a myth, just crank and enjoy from day 1 :thumbs:

     

    A few positions were tried with the aim to improve imaging with emphasis on vocal quality. The standard position didn't allow the tweeters to integrate with the mids, spoiling imaging and timing. The soundstage is brought slightly forward and as the range of frequency covered by the morels is vastly superior to the clarions/bose, it's a world of difference. All I can ay is that I can now follow every instrument in a track, the vocals are imaged into the centre of the dash, tracks i'm used to, have a significant amount more detail added. It was Lee's (the installer) call on where to place the tweeters, he's build many an SQ winning car and is a thoroughly decent chap to boot.

  5. Running active off the 9887r?

     

    It's still passive. I have a Genesis Profile 4 Ultra amp running the components up front and bridged to the Rainbow sub. Front end is Morel with DLS passive x-overs for steeper curve. The Alpine is using it's time alignment and EQ as part of the setup but this is Lee's domain & I'm leaving the setup well alone.

     

    I asked about adding a Genesis Sub amp and going active but apparently it's not that simple & I'd have to improve other areas of the install to benefit from the full active experience. If I do decide to upgrade further, Lee does buy back kit at an extremely competitive price :thumbs: . However, the car can be returned to standard very easily and the kit used in my next car....370Z.....in a few years.....perhaps ;)

     

    @Wasso - Pics show Alpine 9887R HU (32 bit burr brown dacs tucked away inside) :)

    The a-pillars are alcantara :teeth:

  6. After many cars and many self builds/installs I wanted something special for my 350z. After a little research, I met up with Lee from Sonic Frontiers and discussed what was going to be a door speaker upgrade. Some hours passed and after listening to three demo vehicles and a range of different music, I decided to go for Lee's Sonic Punch install.

     

    The Sonic Frontiers website is at http://www.sonicfrontiers.co.uk/ and that explains Lee's ethics and unique approach as well as his different system choices. Lee puts his install pics on his facebook page, my install has just been added, here is a link....

     

    http://www.facebook.com/media/set/?set= ... 557&type=1

     

    While the system has not yet been fully run in (needs at least 100hrs listening) I can say that it sounds amazing....not as amazing as Lee's Astra van install which is £1000's more but it's such a big leap forward from the BOSE I'm overjoyed.

  7. Calling those of you with aftermarket sat navs, e.g. Garmin/TomTom's in your dash cubby. Do you have any issues with your unit dropping the GPS signal at all while in the cubby? I currently use my Samsung Galaxy S as a satnav and have it in the cubby & it's a little hit and miss with the GPS signal.

     

    I am looking to buy a traditional sat nav (Garmin with Traffic is fav at the moment) wondered if these are fine in the cubby. I believe some have mobile sims in them for traffic data, any issues with noise from these?

     

    Thanks :thumbs:

  8. I'd suggest that you use the pre-outs from your H/U to power a new 2 channel amp. This amp should then be used to power the speakers in the front doors.....forget about the other speakers behind the seats, they will just confuse the sound. I'm not sure what impedence (ohms) the original front speakers are so I'd suggest replacing the front speakers with a replacement 6.5" set. Also consider sound proofing/deadening your doors for the best results.

     

    Hope this helps?

  9. The guy doing my install (Lee at Sonic Frontiers http://www.sonicfrontiers.co.uk/) tries all sorts of speaker/amp/cable combinations in a car before choosing the best combo. I'm still waiting for a call to get my car into his workshop for the transformation to begin but I know he uses Rainbow, CDT's, Audison, DLS, Hertz, Morel etc so your not a million miles away with your choices :thumbs: I did suggest focal's to him but he said they were quite bright and not as warm as others.

     

    I can't wait to go and demo the different setups, will take all day but I'll enjoy it. I normally do my own installs but after seeing Lee's work and attention to detail, I'm leaving it all to him.

  10. So do you think I ALSO will need the ICT 29-674?

     

    I thought all that did was link a new head unit to the old loom.

     

    And the ICT 29-00*(7 in my case) linked the head unit to the steering controls?

     

    Yes you will need the ICT 29-674 mate. The blurb on the Sextons website states "To use the Steering Wheels Control function of this loom you must get a corresponding lead to match your head unit. These have part numbers 29-***". I took that to read that you need the ICT 29-674 AND the 20-00x leads together to get your brand of H/U working with the 350z Steering Wheel controls :thumbs:

     

    Worth reading this thread for info viewtopic.php?f=27&t=16403

  11. I bought this from Sextons for my pending install;

     

    Product ID: 29-674

    Product Name: ICT 29-674 - Nissan 350z Bose USC Loom

    Quantity: 1

    Unit Price: £32.99

     

    This will allow the H/U to mate to the BOSE connectors (for power & steering wheel controls). A lot of the other connectors will not be used as like yourself, I will be using the phono outputs from the H/U to feed an amplifier(s). You will need this if you still want to use the steering wheel controls.

     

     

    Product ID: 50-229

    Product Name: ICT 50-229 - Nissan 350Z Pre 06 Single DIN & Pocket

    Quantity: 1

    Unit Price: £19.49

     

    This will allow me to install my Alpine 9887R H/U when the BOSE has been removed.

     

     

    Product ID: 29-001

    Product Name: ICT 29-001 - Alpine head-unit lead

    Quantity: 1

    Unit Price: £4.49

     

    This will connect the loom to my Alpine head unit to integrate the steering wheel controls fully.

     

    Hope this helps.

  12. My zed is having a new ICE system install in the next 2 weeks and I'm planning on junking the original sub. To make use of the space, I thought I could have a double glove box behind the seats so if anyone has these bits gathering dust in the garage, please let me know.

     

    I'm also after some rear plastics (not scratched) around the area of the rear speakers (camel hump between rear strut bar and front seats. Again let me know what you have.

     

    Thanks :thumbs:

×
×
  • Create New...