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Adjusting Clutch Pedal


HassanZ
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I carried out the clutch pedal adjustment yesterday but I think I've overdone it! Now the clutch engages/bite point engages almost instantly from removing the pedal off the floor (which I like) but I am scared that the clutch may still be engaged even when depressed and therefore riding the clutch due it not completely releasing. However upon test driving the Zed, it didn't seem as though the clutch was riding when changing gears. There is now very little travel between the clutch pedal being depressed and being released. As soon as the bite point has engaged, the pedal has already reached the fully released position which makes me think the clutch is still engaged when I've taken my foot off the clutch.

 

Another issue I've experienced is the fact that the pedal keeps sticking and requires manually pulling back up again to return back to fully released position. Upon test driving, this didn't seem to be an issue as it's sticking past the full clutch release point, but I may be incorrect.

 

Do you have any ideas of what I could use as a spacer to plug the gap between the cruise control sensor and the bolt? Do you think a block of rubber (pencil rubber) and super glue will be sufficient over the long term?

 

This DIY was the most painful and frustrating I have experienced on a car by far! Haha!

 

Photos of the current pedal adjustment and the resulting cruise control sensor gap are below:

 

20150225_162936_zpsvrbibn9a.jpg

 

20150225_162828_zpsva3tdrxx.jpg

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Sounds like you have over done the adjustment, you could also have a problem with the master cylinder if the pedal was sticking before, and the current adjustment will just exacerbate this, and the cylinder could also be not completely uncovering the transfer ports inside.

Edited by Tricky-Ricky
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As above.... you may find you go out one day and cant change gear .....i adjusted mine a lot to past the return spring point and added in a spacer for the cruise control switch, and suffered this about a day later.... re-adjusted so the clutch just returns normally by itself and all was well......

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Thanks for your input guys, I've just readjusted the pedal. I raised it by about 2 threads. The clutch pedal is now returning normally and there is some travel on the clutch until it hits bite point. Although I'd like it lower but I'd rather be safe than sorry.

 

20150226_171223_zps5oyukjyv.jpg

 

Now the blue block is stopping right before it hits the black cruise control sensor button (can't see a gap between the blue block and the black button that pushes in). The thing is the clutch pedal is slightly above the brake pedal. My current adjustment looks like the original poster's adjustment on the main clutch adjustment thread.

 

Do you think I could adjust it any further without causing any issues?

 

Many Thanks

Edited by HassanZ
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you can adjust a bit more until the slack is off, and the clutch still returns as normal,as long as you can feel i have my pedal just level with brake.... but i have put on a new clutch and flywheel, so there may be a little difference in adjustment between us....

 

i glued a piece of plastic onto the blue block to take up the space to make the switch, or you can adjust the switch length more... i managed about 2 threads on the switch before it became tight...there is a little slack in the wires behind which you need to tease a little bit so you can adjust it without over twisting...

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you can adjust a bit more until the slack is off, and the clutch still returns as normal,as long as you can feel i have my pedal just level with brake.... but i have put on a new clutch and flywheel, so there may be a little difference in adjustment between us....

 

i glued a piece of plastic onto the blue block to take up the space to make the switch, or you can adjust the switch length more... i managed about 2 threads on the switch before it became tight...there is a little slack in the wires behind which you need to tease a little bit so you can adjust it without over twisting...

 

Thanks for your response mate.

 

I've decided to leave it incase I begin to create unecessary problems. The bite point is way better, feels more like a 'normal' car, maybe 3-4 inches off the floor until it hits bite point?

 

I believe I'm due a new clutch soon. It's reached 91k on it's original clutch!! How much difference do you think it'll make to the bite point after a clutch and flywheel change?

 

I've been told not to reduce the clutch pedal too much before a clutch change as after the clutch change their may be problems with the master cylinder? Something about fluid not getting to some of the ports as the pedal is too low?

 

How many threads are showing on yours?

Edited by HassanZ
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Because when a new clutch is fitted it will change the bite point due to more friction material, if the pedal has been adjusted to compensate for a worn clutch, what can happen is that the bite point is then too high and the plate release springs are still under tension, which can lead to clutch slip, so it will need to be readjusted.

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  • 2 years later...

Just found this thread from 2015, and was looking to do this adjustment. I’ve run a ‘53 DE for a lot of years and now have a ‘58 HR with just 14,000 miles on it. It’s never had any adjustment work done on the clutch system so gives a good reference for factory set measurements. 

 

I found this Clutch Adjustment Specification guide showing the factory pedal height recommended range (171 -190mm).

 

My pedal top currently measures 171mm (with no mat and pushing carpet flat to floor). 

 

Adjusting the pedal position down would therefore take it below the 171mm range minimum, and the caution note at the top of the guide about clutch slip as fluid heats up concerned me! 

 

This YouTube video was also pretty helpful at demonstrating how pedal travel was affecting slave Cylinder range (on a GT 86, not 350Z). 

 

Has any one got any long-term feedback on running the clutch pedal lower i.e. level with the brake pedal or lower? Any issues of clutch burn out or other problems described in the adjustment specification sheet? 

 

While I’ve never liked the high bite point on the clutch pedal on either of my Z’s, I don’t want to fry a low miles clutch! 

 

Any feedback on long-term running of this adjustment would be appreciated! 

 

Thanks

 

 

350ZCLUTCHADJUSTSPECSHEET.pdf

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I have allways tried to have the clutch and brake pedals level if posible, but this cant allwaysbe done on all cars, some clutch pedals have a hight adjusting bolt some dont, and some use the brake light switch to achive it like the Z, but the  actual clutch engaugement  point is only adjustted by the clutch master cylinder to pedal adjustment bolt/nuts, and over doing the adjujstment, either way, will result in a flaky feeling pedale because of the clutch pedlehelper spriing, this can cause the pedle to feel like its sticking, however this can also be atrubuted to a bad master cylinder an is dificult to diagnose unless you have exsperience.

 

Further to this the Z clutch is quite heavy, and will feel even heavier as the clutch plate friction material wears, and some come to grief by simply adjusting the pedal hight in the mistaken belief that it will make the clutch feel lighter, the main reason for the Z clutch being heavy is down to Nisan not getting the fulcrum position correct, this can be corrected if you know how, I did a write up on it some time ago, but would have to search for it.

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