toner Posted October 18, 2014 Share Posted October 18, 2014 Hi guys I've had so much trouble with my rear alignment. I'm trying to get camber about -4 degrees. I have the caster arm and the camber arm but when I put that amount of camber on I run out of toe till straightin the wheel out. The arm I think is the problem is the spring cup arm I have hydraulic so I have on spring there any more. I'm wondering has anyone had this problem what have they done are can anyone shed some light one what can be done. Thanks Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GT4 Zed Posted October 18, 2014 Share Posted October 18, 2014 Hi guys I've had so much trouble with my rear alignment. I'm trying to get camber about -4 degrees. I have the caster arm and the camber arm but when I put that amount of camber on I run out of toe till straightin the wheel out. The arm I think is the problem is the spring cup arm I have hydraulic so I have on spring there any more. I'm wondering has anyone had this problem what have they done are can anyone shed some light one what can be done. Thanks Hi there, I take it you are trying for hellaflush or stance or whatever they call it this days as -4 degree of rear camber is just nuts and can't be good for handling. Not even real race cars run this. Anyway I'm not here to judge but first of there is no caster arm in the rear suspension. There are 3 lower control arms - the front traction arm which is not adjustable. You can get aftermarket adjustable arms which enables you to dial out bump steer. -the middle camber arm which adjust with the eccentric cam bolts on the subframe. You can get aftermarket arms but afaik only the SPL can get anywhere near 4 degrees! - the rear spring bucket arm which adjusts toe via eccentric cam bolts on the sunframe. You can get aftermarket arms without the spring bucket if you have a true rear coilover or airbags like yourself. Tbh you don't need alot of toe so aftermarket arms are purely for weight saving. With that out of the way it will help to state what you have, brand and I can advice how you can achieve the setup you want. Also clarify what you are calling caster arms. Finally how low are you now? Hope it helps. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
toner Posted October 18, 2014 Author Share Posted October 18, 2014 A is what I'm calling the caster arm. B is what I'm calling the camber are then c the spring pocket arm I have seen arms that delete the spring pocket but only in a America. I'm wondering is there anyone over here do them are has anyone used different arms like e36 bmw camber arms are just to long. I'm only looking about -2 degrees at driving height then when the car is fully down the natural camber of it going so low will make the extra degree here's a picture. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GT4 Zed Posted October 18, 2014 Share Posted October 18, 2014 Ok. The pics makes it all clear. A- is an aftermarket adjustable traction arm. Some people try to use this to adjust to but it's wrong. It's to dial out bumpsteer. I recommend setting it to stock length first and adjust in or out to reduce bumpsteer at the rear. B- aftermarket adjustable camber arm. Self explicit. Wind in or out to increase or decrease camber. I recommend you get rid of the eccentric cam bolt and washer and replace with lockout plates and bolt to banish any slip in you camber arm which will change your geo. https://conceptzperformance.com/Cart/description.php?II=4155 C- OEM spring bucket arm which adjust for toe via eccentric bolt/washer. Very small range as you have found out. You need a tie arm delete as you don't need the bucket anymore. There are many brands out there selling these but I recommend SPL strongly. They also have the widest range I know of. https://conceptzperformance.com/Cart/description.php?II=3361 If you wanted to keep the spring bucket and still have adjustability then SPL provides this which I have. https://conceptzperformance.com/Cart/description.php?II=4148 Pics to explain what you will end up with. Note the use of the lockout kit in both camber and toe arms to subframe pick up. If you are keen eyed you will also notice he has a GT spec rear brace. If you need just a set of the SPL from the states I can help otherwise see the traders or get it yourself. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
toner Posted October 18, 2014 Author Share Posted October 18, 2014 Thanks this helped a lot bud. I could just put the standard traction arm back in and just use the camber arm and the tie arm when I get it? Sorry for being a pain 🙈 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GT4 Zed Posted October 18, 2014 Share Posted October 18, 2014 Do you mean remove A and replace with OEM and put A where the spring bucket arm is? Not sure it would work as the inner and out pickup points maybe different widths but it's wotrh a try. Secondly it may not be long enough, have enough range of adjustment and posdibky no strong enough. If I was you I would do the right thing first time or risk bigger damage when it fails. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
StevoD Posted October 18, 2014 Share Posted October 18, 2014 (edited) Have you maxxed out the toe on the rear then as I no there is a lot of adjustment there Edited October 18, 2014 by StevoD Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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