drfeelgood73 Posted September 3, 2014 Share Posted September 3, 2014 So there i was in the garage pretending to be tidying up but in fact planning what to do to the car next when I remembered about the braided clutch line and new slave cylinder gathering packet dust on the shelf. So I decided to change all the fluids and do the clutch at the same time as I think 4000 miles is enough before changing the fluids anyway. I just thought I would give a quick run through of the slave cylinder change out and bleed. Having read through all the how to do it and you tubes there was , I decided to go for it..... This is the sequence I did it in and I had my old man to help..... Definately 2 man job..... Changing the slave and line is pretty easy, 2 bolts for the slave and a little fiddle for the hardline nipple connection to the rubber line to the slave..... Found this to be easy, the nipples and connectors on this locate easily , and you can tell through finger touch alone that it is seated. This where the fun begins....... I took an accumulation of info and basically messed around for what was easy for me.... Tools and equipment required: 8 mm spanner open end 10 mm spanner open end Torch x 2 ( one inside the cabin and one in engine bay) Long nose pliers Long wide tip flat nose screwdriver Crow Bar 200ml plastic syringe Clear plastic tubing to attach to syringe 20 inches Extra tubing 10mm about 8 inch long *** When refitting connections be sure to clean off fluid from it and immediate area as it will be easy to spot leaks in the system later*** 1) Jack car up so you can easily get underneath the slave cylinder....Put on axle stands 2) Disconnect the clutch pedal from master cylinder rod attachment inside cabin....held by pin and retaining clip.... long nose pliers and fingers 3) Disconnect the hard line from master cylinder......10mm open spanner 4) Remove reservoir lid, and place cloth under master cylinder as best you can 5) Take syringe connected to 20 inch flexi pipe and fill with new fluid, attach to opened bleed nipple on slave cylinder ( 8mm spanner), hold the piston rod fully into the cylinder and SLOWLY push fluid through line. The other person should be watching with torch and when there is a steady stream of fluid and no air, you need to close the bleed nipple whilst kerping a slight oressure on the syringe.... *** Once you start to fill from syringe be careful not to move it in such a way that any air gets pushed through instead of fluid*** At this point now you have fully filled the hardline from the slave to the master cylinder.... 6) Push end of 10mm clear flexi plastic tube into the hardline connection port on master cylinder. Make sure reservoir is full of fluid. 7) Use syringe and slowly put fluid into the flexi pipe you have just fitted to master, let it run down pipe until there is about 3inches of fluid in it. Leave in master and put other end into an empty container so that the pipe is in more a vertical than horizontal position. 8) Push clutch rod in the cab SLOWLY towards the firewall using the large flat blade screwdriver. When released pull clutch pedal fully out so rod can return a bit more. ( I put a piece of rubber insulation tape on the end of screwdriver to give me more purchase on the rod attachment as the end is rounded. The other person should watch at master cylinder and will see fluid and air come out through fluid in pipe, as the fork is pushed. When the fork is released it will suck the fluid back in along with whatever fluid you had previously put in flexi pipe. Repeat this again until you are sure there is no air in master cylinder. You should now have the flexi pipe attached to the master with a littke fluid in tge pipe at the master....if there is no fluid in the flexi, fill with more fluid and reoeat purge process. *** We have now fully filled the master cylinder and the hard line all the way to , and including the slave cylinder*** 9) Remove plastic flexi from master and connect hardline back into it and tighten. 10) Pressurise system using clutch rod in cabin....Slowly pushing to firewall.... 8 times.. *** This is a good time to check all your connections for leaks*** 11) While person in cab has the rod pushed to the firewall as much as they can after the 8th time, other person to hold in piston at slave and open nipple for 1 second and tighten... Person in cab will feel fork move. Repeat 3 times.... *** Keep pressure on fork in cabin when opening bleed nipple on slave as this will stop any air being sucked back in. The pressure on the slave piston is to make sure the fluid fills and doesn't create an air pocket in the cylinder. Do not open bleed nipple for longer than a second as you want to close it whilst under positive pressure being created in the system from the cab*** A clear plastic tube connected to the bleed nipple can let you see when just fluid is being released.....but since we have filled everywhere prior this will be minimal.... Now it is a case of pressurising from the cabin until the clutch fork at the slave is pushed out enough that on its return it pushes the rod in the cab against the pedal back towards its normal position. THIS IS WHERE I HAD TO ADAPT AND THINK A LITTLE... I could see that the slave was wanting to push the fork on the clutch but I could not gain enough pressure inside the cab on the master to do this. I have fitted a new sports clutch not long ago and the spring tension was too much... maybe with a normal or older clutch it would be easier. This is where the crow bar comes in.... Push back the fork on the clutch with the crow bar using the cross member as leverage to its full extent.... Person in cab then pressurise system using the screwdriver in the cab..... this might take 3 or 4 goes to get it right as it takes a bit of effort to hold the clutch fork. *** Keep an eye on reservoir and top up if necessary*** You will know inside the cab when it is right as the clutch pedal moves back to its normal position as the rod is pushed back against it when the person underneath lets the clutch fork push back against the slave piston and you will feel the tension as you move the clutch pedal in against the rod..... 12) Connect pedal back to rod assy in cabin ....long nose pliers for clip....fingers for pin 13) Fit reservoir cap *** KEEP A BUCKET OF SOAPY WARM WATER FOR FLUID SPILLS OR SPLASHES ON PAINTWORK, AS BRAKE/CKUTCH FLUID ABSORBS WATER AND THIS WILL DILUTE IT...*** Hope this helps someone...even just a little bit.... 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ZMANALEX Posted September 3, 2014 Share Posted September 3, 2014 That is a hellava drawn out procedure for swopping out the slave and line and bleeding the hydraulic system. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
drfeelgood73 Posted September 3, 2014 Author Share Posted September 3, 2014 It sounds it, but only took just over an hour...... after reading all the problems others have had as well.... suppose you could have pressure bled it.... and I didn't find a sticky in the guides on here....only links to people with tales of woe when attempting...... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ZMANALEX Posted September 4, 2014 Share Posted September 4, 2014 The tales of woe are usually if you only allow the master to run dry. With a bit of knowledge and the correct equipment and tools, replacing the slave and line is a 5 minute job followed by a 10 minute bleed without a pressure bleeder, as per the manufacturers recommended bleed procedure. I am sure that there is how to in the guides section on how to bleed. However, the main thing is that you got the job done. Alex. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
drfeelgood73 Posted September 7, 2014 Author Share Posted September 7, 2014 Lol.... Took me more than 10 mins to jack the car up and get onto the stands....never mind coating that rusted clip holding the join together with wd40 before prizing it off..... but yes changing the slave and hose was only 5 mins after that.... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
grommit Posted September 19, 2014 Share Posted September 19, 2014 Ive just been quoted £380 to replace the slave cylinder and braided hose!! and thats with me suppling the parts. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ZMANALEX Posted September 19, 2014 Share Posted September 19, 2014 Ive just been quoted £380 to replace the slave cylinder and braided hose!! and thats with me suppling the parts. On the HR it is a 4 hour job. You do the maths. Alex. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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