bamdc2 Posted May 31, 2013 Share Posted May 31, 2013 Molyslip or not, just drive it!! It will be fine!!! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
gareth29 Posted June 2, 2013 Share Posted June 2, 2013 Just put the molyslip in and about half a liter of oil and the gearbox is transformed - smooth as silk, the change change into 2nd is perfect and i can heel and toe again - feels like a different car Thanks for this tip Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
drfeelgood73 Posted June 3, 2013 Share Posted June 3, 2013 Moly slip did make a difference when I did mine, but there was still that little niggle into second after a week or so of running.... by far the biggest and best improvement has been changing the transmission mount......every gear nice and smooth, and no jerky changes anymore... found myself initially half wincing expecting the usual 1st to second jerk, but absolutely nothing now.....really easy job to do as well..... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
gareth29 Posted June 16, 2013 Share Posted June 16, 2013 Moly slip did make a difference when I did mine, but there was still that little niggle into second after a week or so of running.... by far the biggest and best improvement has been changing the transmission mount......every gear nice and smooth, and no jerky changes anymore... found myself initially half wincing expecting the usual 1st to second jerk, but absolutely nothing now.....really easy job to do as well..... Is this the mount at the back of the gbox on top of the cross member - whats involved? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Arran Posted June 16, 2013 Share Posted June 16, 2013 Best things for the gearchange in my personal experience is using the sports Nissan gearbox oil and LSD oil combined with a tube of molyslip for the gearbox, a braided clutch hose and a complete clutch bleed using ate superblue, wouldn't think it was the same car if you were blindfolded and changing gear before and after Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
drfeelgood73 Posted June 16, 2013 Share Posted June 16, 2013 Yes...it is that crossmember and mount..... Make sure you check you get the right size diameter bolt with the new mount if you do it as the standard bolt may differ, as it did with mine.... 4 bolts for the crossmember...easy access.... 1 bolt which goes through cross member and mount....crossmember has threaded retainer on opposing side... 2 bolts holding mount onto gearbox..... Use trolley jack to support gearbox in place before removing anything.... Undo the 4 crossmember bolts.... Leave 1 in each side a few threads for support You can access the 2 mount bolts through the crossmember.... Undo them completely....they may drop onto crossmember but can easily be retrieved when its off Take out the 2 crossmember bolts and both will come away.... Take out bolt going through the crossmember and mount The crossmember has a locator for the standard mount inside it, but it comes out with a bit gusto... Depending on the mount, you may have to grind off that crossmember metal locator Then just reverse fitting....although I did find it easier to bolt the new mount onto the gearbox first, then push crossmember on ( little grease helps) Put in connecting bolt so it catches a few threads.. Then fit the 4 crossmember bolts... I had to go around the 4 bolts evenly a few turns at a time so went up evenly and never damaged the poly bush as it tightened up as they are a very close fit. Then just tighten the main mount bolt..... I did all in the last post, and although did feel better....... Absolutely nothing like this...... Takes about an hour if you have all the tools to hand..... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jell36 Posted June 16, 2013 Share Posted June 16, 2013 Yes...it is that crossmember and mount..... Make sure you check you get the right size diameter bolt with the new mount if you do it as the standard bolt may differ, as it did with mine.... 4 bolts for the crossmember...easy access.... 1 bolt which goes through cross member and mount....crossmember has threaded retainer on opposing side... 2 bolts holding mount onto gearbox..... Use trolley jack to support gearbox in place before removing anything.... Undo the 4 crossmember bolts.... Leave 1 in each side a few threads for support You can access the 2 mount bolts through the crossmember.... Undo them completely....they may drop onto crossmember but can easily be retrieved when its off Take out the 2 crossmember bolts and both will come away.... Take out bolt going through the crossmember and mount The crossmember has a locator for the standard mount inside it, but it comes out with a bit gusto... Depending on the mount, you may have to grind off that crossmember metal locator Then just reverse fitting....although I did find it easier to bolt the new mount onto the gearbox first, then push crossmember on ( little grease helps) Put in connecting bolt so it catches a few threads.. Then fit the 4 crossmember bolts... I had to go around the 4 bolts evenly a few turns at a time so went up evenly and never damaged the poly bush as it tightened up as they are a very close fit. Then just tighten the main mount bolt..... I did all in the last post, and although did feel better....... Absolutely nothing like this...... Takes about an hour if you have all the tools to hand..... So what mount did you use? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
drfeelgood73 Posted June 16, 2013 Share Posted June 16, 2013 I got the Avid Racing Mount 6061 T-6 Billet Aluminum CAD/CAM Design 60a, 70a or 90a Durometer Polyurethane Bushings Proper Engine Placement and Axle Alignment Installation Instructions and Complete Hardware Kit Limited Lifetime Warranty I got the 70a Durometer........ Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jell36 Posted June 16, 2013 Share Posted June 16, 2013 Looks good, did you noticed any increased noise, vibration or harshness from having it fitted? Tempted to fit one to my Z but I don't want any downsides to it. Also, always makes me laugh when parts are described as "CAD/CAM Design", unless it's a complex assembly (which this isn't) then there is no advantae of using CAD/CAM except for speed (I use CAD everyday). Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
drfeelgood73 Posted June 17, 2013 Share Posted June 17, 2013 I have not noticed any excess noise from it, but I do have the invidia duel fitted with the berks hfc's..... The gear shift does not move as much as it did, in fact hardly at all. In the lower range with higher revs it is a lot more powerful feeling ( if that makes sense ) as the whole car vibration is of a deeper growl than what it was. The cruise speed from 4th to 6th both in the lower and more spirited rev range is definitely a lot quieter . Have not felt any harshness, but there is nowhere near as much g/ box to engine movement between gear changes as there is as standard...... No more bunny hopping down the road for me ...... It also depends on the pin and the dorometer of the poly as well...... The 60a is closest to standard but a bit stiffer... Where the 90a is close to race spec..... If the pin don't fit snugly with no movement....this will increase vibration.... As for the cad/ cam thing..... Those statements are well above my pay grade and knowledge base, so I will accept that both of you are correct in your statements...... Or wrong, as whatever case may be..... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jell36 Posted June 17, 2013 Share Posted June 17, 2013 Brillinat, thank you. I think I am going to order one of these now and go for the 70 durometer as that should be a happy medium between performance and comfort. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
gareth29 Posted August 3, 2013 Share Posted August 3, 2013 Just removed the gearbox mount (bout 2 hours if anyones interested) and here are a couple of pictures. It looks in pretty good nick, but i'd like to know if anyone has replaced an ok looking mount and still got a big improvement in shift quality - or should i just put it back together and forget about avid billet mounts? If i do go down the upgrade route who in the uk can supply one? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Arran Posted August 3, 2013 Share Posted August 3, 2013 Its out may aswell change it fella although I wouldn't use a billet mount as it will be to hard for road use as it will transmit vibration through the transmission, get a polybush one instead Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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