AFTERSHOX Posted July 16, 2011 Posted July 16, 2011 Hi guys; AFTERSHOX here.... with my first "how to" guide; "Removing / Replacing the exterior drivers side door handle" THERE ARE QUITE A FEW PHOTOS IN HERE, SO BE PATIENT WHILE THEY LOAD UP; TOOLS required:- Small Flat Blade Screwdriver PH3 screwdriver / Bit MAGNETIC PREFERRED T30 (Torx) Screwdriver / Bit MAGNETIC PREFERRED Small PENLIGHT TORCH Small piece of thin / flexible but stiff paper or card (OPTIONAL) Small tub or container to keep the screws safe. Small Japanese fingers (helpful) Replacement DOOR HANDLE (If you are replacing it); +------------------------------------------------------------+ Before you begin; you will need to make sure that you have done the following:- a) UNLOCK all doors Roll-down the Drivers Window (FULLY) - You'll THANK ME later if you need to ASK WHY; c) REMOVE Keys from ignition STEP 1) Remove the TWO RUBBER GROMMETS (as shown in the photo); You can use fingers; they are quite easy to remove. STEP 2) PH3 screwdriver bit - Remove the TOP screw STEP 3) PH3 screwdriver bit - Remove the BOTTOM screw; CAUTION : Be careful not to drop the screw inside the door panel; (This can easily be avoided by using my TIP below); TIP : Using your small piece of thin card; create a rolled tube and insert into the door cavity; now remove the BOTTOM screw with confidence; You have LESS CHANCE of dropping / losing the screw down the hole inside the door panel; STEP 4) TORX 30 bit - Now remove the screw securing the lock barrel. STEP 5) The handle will now be 'loose'; but it is not ready for removal (just yet)! The next step is to manipulate the handle sufficiently so that you gain access to the locking mechanism 'electrics'; Try and create a gap (about as large as you see in the picture below); Using the SMALL FLAT BLADE screwdriver; gently lift the plastic clip off (seperating the electrical connection from the key / lock barrel as shown in the next 2 photos) This CABLE is tight, and needs to be disconnected. CLIP ATTACHED CLIP REMOVED Once the CLIP is removed (..and the electrical connection is free of the key / lock barrel mechanism) - you will have a little more 'shuffle room' to perform the next step; STEP 6) Now you have a little more room to manoeuvre the handle; what you need to do is to manipulate the handle so you can gain access to the FINAL SCREW which secures the lock barrel to the handle PH3 screwdriver bit I found the easiest way to remove the FINAL SCREW is to rotate the handle slightly outwards - as shown in the picture below; YOU MAY WANT TO USE A PROTECTIVE CLOTH AGAINST THE DOOR EDGE when unscrewing the FINAL SCREW to save damaging your paintwork; Once you have unscrewed the lock / barrel from the handle - the handle is free to be removed ! GENTLY LIFT the handle OUTWARDS and UPWARDS - diagonally (There is a SHORT METAL LINKAGE still connected to the HANDLE [this is normal - do not PANIC - this is ATTACHED and REMOVED along with the handle) IF you are only removing the handle - you may now SKIP the next steps - and read the FINAL STEPS (Re-assembly!) +------------------------------------------------------------+ HANDLE REPLACEMENT +------------------------------------------------------------+ If you are REPLACING the HANDLE; you'll need to 'steal' the LINKAGE from the OLD HANDLE - and fit it on the new HANDLE; As per PHOTO below; rotate the white clip downwards whilst roatating the LINKAGE upwards - then remove from the hole; Photo below shows LINKAGE removed - and ready to transplant to the new HANDLE +------------------------------------------------------------+ FINAL STEPS (RE-ASSEMBLY) +------------------------------------------------------------+ Before replacing your handle - you may wish to clean any dirt / debris around where the handle attaches to the door; RE-ASSEMBLY is quite straightforward (BASICALLY, do everything you have just done, but in reverse!); HOWEVER; There are TWO tricky parts to RE-ASSEMBLY; Tricky #1) Ensure the LINKAGE on the handle is INSERTED correctly into the door opening mechanism. The picture below shows you the DIRECTION of where the LINKAGE goes; VERY IMPORTANT : ENSURE the LINKAGE is inserted into the centre hole of what looks like a PLASTIC (funnel) - MINE was BLUE PLASTIC; I couldn't get close enough with the camera to show you exactly where this is; USE A TORCH - and you will see it; just ENSURE that the LINKAGE goes into the hole into the BLUE PLASTIC FUNNEL.... and you'll be OK. (If you miss the HOLE - the door handle will not open the door [from the outside] - once you have re-assembled it; SO, if your have messed this up, you'll have to disassemble and start over) - THAT is why you need all doors unlocked, and windows open [at the start]. Tricky 2) Once the LINKAGE is back in, and the lock / barrel is re-attached to the handle; the next awkward part is re-connecting the WIRING (electrics) to the lock; This is really quite fiddly, and where you need your little japanese fingers; once the electrics are back on; just proceed with re-assembly; I find *swearing lots* helps with this stage. +----------------------------------------------------------------------------+ CONGRATULATIONS - You are DONE ! Stand back and admire your handiwork. Now check that everything works; including checking that the KEY also unlocks / locks the car; +---------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------+ Hope you found this guide useful; if you feel it needs improvement - let me know and I'll consider revising it. Thanks. Username : AFTERSHOX Forum : http://www.350z-uk.com +---------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------+ Quote
Beau Posted July 16, 2011 Posted July 16, 2011 Good guide. My handle seems different though, less clips. It was just a case of pulling it out Quote
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