RussMan Posted January 9, 2009 Author Share Posted January 9, 2009 I'm going to put all the photo's here as its easier. http://picasaweb.google.com/russell.armstrong Please let me know about the adapter... Thanks Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
N1SM0350z Posted January 9, 2009 Share Posted January 9, 2009 I haven't done ice for a while but you can spend a lot on cabling etc too. Running that number of subs you'll need a few amps. Also, not sure on prices of subs these days but I don't think you'll get quality at that price... I got 2 x 12" kenwood 1200W off fleabay for £50 each (new) dont no what the retail is on them and got a kenwood 600W amp for about £60 (new) wich i was told retails at about £160. They give nice deep bass but from experiance 10" are alot more punchy and probably the best allrounders? wouldnt the ultimate set up be 1 or more of say 8" then 10" then 12"? so you have most frequencys covered? im no expert but i have been dabbling a bit in the last year or so Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rob_Quads Posted January 9, 2009 Share Posted January 9, 2009 Take a look @ http://www.350z-uk.com/forum/viewtopic.php?t=16403 for info on looms etc Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RussMan Posted January 9, 2009 Author Share Posted January 9, 2009 Cheers Rob - I'm guessing from looking at that post that i need this ICT 29-674 + 29-00* Available here http://www.sextonsdirect.co.uk/steering ... 9-674.html Nismo i don't know much about audio so i'll have to do a bit of research to see whether its good to have different sizes of subs... It sounds the way to go. I've been toying round with 2 x 10" subs now, one in each corner of the boot with the amp at the back of the spare tyre well with a poly carb cover and some hidden lighting. Need to get my Second Skin sound deadening before i can move with anything!! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bundus Posted January 9, 2009 Share Posted January 9, 2009 1) Required - 7 x 8" subs - (Any brand recommendations / product?) Audiobhan comes to mind for the bling factor since thats obviously a big factor in a set up like this 2) Appropriate Amplifier to power 7 subs (Will this power the speakers based on questions 3 and 4) Youll need to take into account the Ohm rating of the subs and amp and weather you are wiring them in series or in paralell. Its a simple enough process to follow - this link will help you http://www.termpro.com/articles/spkrz.html Its all about impedence - if you are running more subs then there are channels on the amp then the impedence will change and affect the rms of each sub. An amp would be rated say 1000RMS x 2 at 4ohm or 2000RMS x 2 at 2 ohm. Before you buy the kit you need to calculate how to get the most RMS out of it buy buying the subs at the correct OHM rating to compliment your amp and how you plan to wire it up (series or paralell. 3) Advise on whether to replace / upgrade or remove speakers behind seats? You may as well upgrade them. You can get a nice set for not too much money and if youve stripped the whole car is no extra effort to fit them and amp them up. 4) Advise on whether to replace / upgrade or remove door speakers. A must. 5) Headunit advise - looking for DVD touchscreen with pre-amps (possibly sat nav) mp3 / IPOD interface etc. I've just got a new parrot car kit with IPOD connevtivity that doesn't interface with the BOSE so hoping to reuse with new headunit. (its the parrot nki9100) I would also really lick to retain the steering wheel controls if possible. So many options but the Kenwood one is a favourite Think its the 7200 or something? You can get one for around £600 - no need to spend a grand here. 6) Battery upgrade - should this be required and what should i buy? You can do - get a yellow top or one thats higher power - Also a power capacitor is essential otherwise your headlights will dip when you are cranking the system (amongst other power problems). A capacitor runs in between the power and the system and stores a large charge to kick out when the system needs it so the car doesnt suffer. 7) Sound deadning - Dynamat comes to mind but can i buy this in bulk in the UK or perhaps someone might know somewhere in the Ireland? Buy "brown bread" as its cheaper in bulk - use fleabay. 8) Wiring and cooling for the amp - i plan on mounting a number of fans to cool the amp but not sure what way would be best for air circulation, i'll post a diagram of this along with the box unit i'm getting built. I would avoid fans as the noise of them will be annoying at best. Its also not necessary as long as the top of your amps where the heat escapes is not covered. As for wiring expect one hell of a shock when you get the bill. It can be one of the most expensive aspects. Youll need distribution blocks for the power cable, plenty of speaker, power, earth and RCA cabling, a power cap, terminal covers, fuse block or even better circuit breaker...... I spent over £200 on mine as I wanted flat cables and high quality and that was just for one 3 amps, 2 subs and the 4 speakers - I wanted an amp for each sub and a 4 channel one for the speakers. Hope thats been some help to you mate - cant wait to see it and dont change from your plan, it will be a great show car install. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bundus Posted January 9, 2009 Share Posted January 9, 2009 Whoops didnt realise this was a 2 pager before I replied. I guess my post is a little late now Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RussMan Posted January 10, 2009 Author Share Posted January 10, 2009 Cheers Bundas for your reply.... i'll be looking into those items especially the brown bread as it seems to get decent reviews. I'm thinking i might just bite the bullet and start with the wiring over the weekend. Question i have though is regarding the existing loom. Does anyone have an online reference / wiring diagram to help me if i was to buy a standard ISO block and then rewire the appropriate connections directly into it. Ideally i'd love to have a look at the headunit and play around with it so suggestions would be appreciated. I'm thinking in theory if i know which wire is the 12v feed i can simply disconnect it from the BOSE loom and wire it into the ISO block. Before i try this has anyone any idea idea if this is what you do in the scenario that your getting rid of all the BOSE equipment. Plan woul be to buy some speaker cable and wire in new door speaker just so i can start to tinker. Do the speaker cables run into the ISO loom.... assume they would? I'm only on page 50 of "Car Audio for Dummies" so cut me a little slack please Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bundus Posted January 16, 2009 Share Posted January 16, 2009 Yeah you can basically bypass the loom altogether if you know which wire is which. Hopefully someone will provide you a diagram. The only reason for the loom is to make the headunit compatible with the car and make for an easy plug and play. I know a lot of people that never buy ISO boxes - they just cut and splice the wires into the correct wire coming from the car. Hope you get it sorted mate - looking forward to seeing some progress photos! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RussMan Posted January 20, 2009 Author Share Posted January 20, 2009 Just a quick update. HeadUnit is now wired up and just tested it today. Unfortuantely i have no sound yet as i have still to decide on speakers to replace the door speakers and the pair behind the headrests. Any suggestions on particular model? i'm looking for quality over price... happy to pay to get the right ones. As i'm yet to take off the door plastics i don't even know what the dimensions are the speakers on the door. Anyone? And what the recommended replacement size should be. Added a picture of the headunit all wired up but not inserted into the dash.. later today no doubt. http://picasaweb.google.com/russell.armstrong/350zAudioInstall# Anyway will hopefully start making better progress over the next week once my sound deadening arrives. Cheers Russ Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
riske Posted January 20, 2009 Share Posted January 20, 2009 Alpine are the best audio people around but you pay for it. They would be the best to go with when it comes to everything, subs, speakers and amps. Also get a capacitor or even 2. You will need em if you want to keep the power and therefore sound stable. Door card speakers are usually 6.5inch or 15cm. Get a pair that include across faders as you can also put in tweeters. i would run seperate amps for the speakers and subs. the power of the amps is going to depend on what watt you want. (say that quickly!) Make sure your sub amps are bridgable as this will help you in getting the power you want. Hope this helps, iv tried to be as simple as possible here but i can elaborate if needed. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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