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Clutch help - Biting point changing


sjparker
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Hello folks, posting here in the hope that someone maybe able to offer some advice on 2008 HR.

 

For the last 4/5 months, I've noticed that my clutch biting point changes depending on whether it's hot or cold. When cold the biting point is much lower to floor which lots of travel before it engages, and somewhat slow to rise back to the top. When I've been driving for 20 mins the clutch returns to exactly what I feel it should be. Relatively high, but no more travel or play in clutch and engages almost straight away.  

 

What also makes diagnoses slightly harder is that I have the RJM Clutch Assembly Kit fitted to the car (and I stupidly threw away the OEM pedal kit) so bleeding it can be even more difficult than usual.

 

At first I thought it was going to be a complete clutch job (which I thought seemed unusual at 57k on the clock), but after talking it to one of the specialist garages, and them taking a look and providing some adjustments and a bleed it felt much improved for a week or so but the problem now seems to have returned. 

 

I'd hate to spend a fortune on the clutch only for it to still be an issue hence my post. I've looked on the forum and people seem to suggest either slave, flexi hose issues or not being bled correctly.


I wonder if anyone has any suggestions or similar experience based on the symptoms. Especially with it just being an issue when the car is cold. 


Thanks in advance! 

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The issue certainly sounds like a hydraulic problem and not mechanical.

 

Are you still running a CSC or have you the CSC delete kit fitted?

 

Are you running the RJM pedal system?

 

Not sure what you mean by this:   

 

 "What also makes diagnoses slightly harder is that I have the RJM Clutch Assembly Kit fitted to the car (and I stupidly threw away the OEM pedal kit) so bleeding it can be even more difficult than usual."

 

 

 

 

 

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Hi ZMANALEX,

 

I'm pretty sure everything is stock so it would be the stock CSC.

 

Yes, I'm running RJM pedal system. It's been fettled with by 2x of the main specialists on here in order to get adjustments right - it's never felt quite 100% correct. The instructions for the RJM kit talk a bit about challenges whilst bleeding without OEM on. I was told by one of the specialists that they especially struggled because not familiar with kit and had issues bleeding.

 

I actually test drove another 350z today, same year as mine, a HR.  Clutch feel was dramatically lighter and shifting was so much better and apparently that was completely stock clutch.

 

Thanks,

 

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I have had no problems bleeding with an RJM clutch pedal.

 

Try bleeding following the procedure below:

 

if this still does not work, I have OEM clutch pedal assemblies in stock and are good to go same/next day.

 

 

CAUTION:

 

 

 

Monitor fluid level in the reservoir tank to make sure it does not empty.

 

 

 

Do not spill clutch fluid onto painted surfaces. If it spills, wipe up immediately and wash the

 

 

 

affected area with water.

 

 

 

Bleed the operating cylinder.

 

 

 

1. Fill the master cylinder reservoir tank with new clutch fluid.

 

 

 

2. Connect a transparent vinyl hose to the air bleeder.

 

 

 

3. Depress the clutch pedal quickly and fully a few times and hold

 

 

 

it.

 

 

 

4. With clutch pedal depressed, open air bleeder.

 

 

 

5. Close air bleeder.

 

 

 

6. Release clutch pedal and wait for 5 seconds.

 

 

 

7. Repeat steps 3 to 6 until no bubbles can be observed in the

 

 

 

brake fluid.

 

 

 

Air bleeder:

 

 

 

: 5.9 - 9.8 N·m (0.61 - 0.99 kg-m, 53 - 86 in-lb)

 

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I have an RJM pedal on my DE. Have no issues bleeding and always felt it was better than OEM in terms of biting point.

 

Think it might be best to bust out the manual for it and do the adjustments yourself. It's uncomfortable but fairly simple to do yourself.

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