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Wideband sensor


scobie140

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AEM wideband's are very good and very accurate from my experience. Have done a little bit of testing with various wideband's and these are my favoured ones. I have found that the Innovate's can be problematic and unreliable at times.

 

Just make sure that you wire it in correctly as the controller will heat the sensor up to operational temperature. You can use a cable that adds a fusable circuit to your vehicle. Cant remember the actual name but I have a pic somewhere of what it looks like. You basically remove a 10amp fuse from an existing switched circuit, replace it with this and insert the original fuse into this cable in the bottom most slot. You then add a 10 amp in the top slot for this circuit and then wire the wideband controller up to this.

 

Aha just found the pic:

 

154363.jpg.cfc3c0628c37fa8c38d395641c4df246.jpg

 

Oh and also make sure you carry out the calibration process correctly or you could end up with spurious readings.

 

Hope this helps mate.

Edited by Erni902
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I haven't wired one up in a Zed before but yeah they are pretty simple to wire up.

 

You should get 2 or 3 cables coming out the back of the gauge (depending which one you go with).

 

The first cable has a connector on the back that will connect straight into the sensor.

 

The 2nd will have about 5 different coloured wires. Red for switched 12V, black for ground, there is normally a white or grey wire that you can connect up to your headlight power (this will dim the gauge when you turn your headlights on) if you choose not to use this function then just ground this wire out. Then you will have 2 other wires, normally yellow and brown if memory serves me well. These are your analog outputs that you can hook into either an ecu or datalogger etc. (if you wire these in then be sure to check the device your connecting it to as 1 of these outputs is usually a wideband 0-5V output with the other being a narrowband .1 to 1.1V output) If not using either of these functions then just insulate the ends with either heat shrink or electrical tape.

 

Then you may have a 3rd cable. Again this will have a connector already wired (smaller than the first) This is a serial connection for hooking up to a laptop etc.

 

Sounds alot more complicated than it is but you only really have to worry about wiring up 2 wires, switched 12V and ground. Especially if you use the secondary O2 sensors and have the DTC's switched off etc. Whatever product you get should come with extensive instructions anyway.

 

1 thing I will point out though is that during initial calibration I like to use it open air i.e not installed into exhaust yet. This will make sure the sensor and control unit calibrates in clean air and will know that's the reference point for an afr of 22.4. If you install the sensor in the exhaust without calibrating it in clean air then rather than take it back out make sure that the car is not run for a period of time before calibration ensuring that as little exhaust gasses as possible are present. I usually leave it at least 24hrs to be sure. If you accidentally apply power to the controller/gauge without the sensor connected to it then you will have to carry out the calibration again.

 

Any dramas with the install etc mate just give me a shout and Ill be happy to help out either via the forums or skype etc.

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Depends on your specific setup, whether you are forced induction or N/A and whether you have cats or not.

 

If you are FI you want it ideally around 18" after the turbo/supercharger and before the cat if you have one. All depends really but if you are too close to the charger then the high heat can damage the sensor and you will be replacing it every 6 months or so. Too far away and it wont get an accurate reading and could end up with more condensation. Also it should be positioned on the pipe above the 3 and 9o'clock positions for the condesation reason.

Edited by Erni902
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I'm running a supercharger and have high flow cats, It looks like it would be a night mare for access to get the bung in and welded in front of the cats. I'll need to have a better look next time I'm under the car and see how easy this is going to be.

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Ah to be honest if you have high flow cats then placing the sensor after them will not affect the readings too much and so you can still use them. When tuning normally a tuner will use a tailpipe o2 sensor which is way back. The main thing that effects the readings is the flow of exhaust gases. Placing the sensor right at the tip using a tailpipe extension which effectively lengthens the exhaust tip with the sensor placed along the length. similar to this:

 

170620_installed_use_web.jpg.9cd606cb89e27ee574c554a5e843deb3.jpg

 

The best and most accurate reading will be before the cats but with your setup with the high flow cats you should be fine. If you've had the DTC's switched off for the secondary stock sensors you can simply connect it in place of one of the stock sensors and you should be fine.

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13 minutes ago, Erni902 said:

Ah to be honest if you have high flow cats then placing the sensor after them will not affect the readings too much and so you can still use them. When tuning normally a tuner will use a tailpipe o2 sensor which is way back. The main thing that effects the readings is the flow of exhaust gases. Placing the sensor right at the tip using a tailpipe extension which effectively lengthens the exhaust tip with the sensor placed along the length. similar to this:

 

170620_installed_use_web.jpg.9cd606cb89e27ee574c554a5e843deb3.jpg

 

The best and most accurate reading will be before the cats but with your setup with the high flow cats you should be fine. If you've had the DTC's switched off for the secondary stock sensors you can simply connect it in place of one of the stock sensors and you should be fine.

Ahh cheers I'll ask Chris at dynatune when i'm through for a check up on my map if they are disabled, that would make life easier as then I can do it all myself without any welding.

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