Vertakill

Looking to buy a 47660 CD066 or 47660 CD067 ABS Assembly (Pump/Controller). Both Traynors.co.uk (N.Ireland) and ZMANALEX only have the 47600 AL700 which is no good to me unfortunately.

I've watched the first season of the latest V. I like it but it's not for everyones taste. It's good if you're a fan of the original like I was, but it's not that similar. It's gotten quite good ratings overall: http://www.imdb.com/title/tt1307824/ It'd be better to be able to watch a few episodes at a time if you bought it on DVD because the story moves quite slowly. So waiting week after week got a bit frustrating if you're only learning snippets of information every episode!

Anyone got any ideas where this is located? From looking at a diagram in the service manual, it looks like it's in the driver footwell/under the steering wheel area and it appears to be a small box of some sort. Bear in mind, I'm not looking for the internal fuse box, but a box with relays. About to go have a look now so thought I'd pop this up now and come back to check on it if I don't have any luck finding it. This is in relation to the following thread and trouble code: C1111: ABS power relay coil open circuit viewtopic.php?f=10&t=34822&p=519574&hilit=abs+open+relay#p519574 So I'm looking for the ABS relay to see if it's damaged or fallen out or something, specifically from this relay box that I've yet to find. I could be wrong and I could be looking for the wrong thing in the wrong location. But at the moment, I'm desperate for a solution as this is preventing me from (legally) driving the car. I know someone can probably shed some light on it if they stumble upon this thread, but I'd rather not send out PM's to people unannounced. Thanks in advance.

Reading this makes me ill lol... Over here (Ireland), its 1550 euro per year. That's approx 1200/1300 gbp. :/ So, be thankful!

Oh hehe, excellent. I'll take any advice thrown my way at this stage! Forgot to mention in my first post but I've already tried topping up brake fluid and I've d/c the battery overnight and have tried recalibrating the TCS (roll back/forward) as well the first clean/easy fixes but to no avail. The car has a bit of a history of electrical problems so I just wanted to see what people thought before I go getting under the car again.

Got the annoying ABS, SLIP, TCS Off lights on my dash for quite a while and I'm trying my best to get to the source of the problem. Got a mechanic to read the codes and it said "C1111 - ABS Pump" which seems, from doing some searches, to translate to: "C1111: ABS power relay coil open circuit". The error lights turn on (if they're not already on from a previous trip) after moving a few yards. The problem is somewhat intermittent so I thought that might eliminate the ABS Pump being shot and it might be something electrical/ground related. I'm open for correction here! Any ideas what I should start looking at first? Any advice would be greatly appreciated! Thanks.

Don't take her into nissan, pm me your number if you got to go down that route and ill send you a better cheaper way! Sorry to hear re jobs loss...pain in the arse! Ah sound. I'll probably take you up on that if I don't get any joy out of this thing. Haven't been able to do it today and the weekend is a bit of a mess (the Italian job!) for me at the moment but I'm going to force myself to get this crap done within the next day or two!

Haven't been in a position to do any tuning of any kind unfortunately. Would love to start improving things once I get all the damn problems ironed out! Got made redundant recently as well so mods are on the back burner. I think I read that thread already on 350zmotoring. I've literally scoured the internet for theories because I don't have the money to throw at replacing sensors here and there and what not. Also Nissan quoted 110e for just reading the codes and, I quote, "if it takes more than the hour to read the codes and resolve the problem, then it'll be another 110e and so on...". < That was my face when she said that. I've checked brake fluid already, it was fine (unfortunately and I even topped it up just to see but no use. :/ I'm going to do that horrible built in code reader way tomorrow I guess. Was putting it off coz it confused the @*!# out of me before. Nice one for the link!

an expensive one... what do you need it for? reading codes? then Nissan has its own built in one which is pretty cool Ah crap. Well, just got a few issues that are reeeaally bugging me. But my main one is I have the infamous ABS/Slip/TCS issue (made several posts about this already) 80% of the time I use the car. It failed the NCT with a free visual retest as a result of this. Luckily, during the other 20% of the time I was around the corner from the NCT place in Lucan and I was able to pop in for one of the mechanics to come out and have a look at the car. As soon as I wheeled away from there the lights all popped back on! Mine have to bite the bullet and go into Nissan at Liffey Valley and pay 110 euro for them to read it........... This is the error I'm getting with some trial software:

I know this is a bit of an old thread but... I've an ELM327 v1.2a and I can't connect to my car, which is a 2002 JDM. I tried bringing it to a mechanic I know and he used an Autoboss which threw up a u1001 error (CAN error). I think I need a JODB scanner for myself for starters.. but I'm also wondering whether that's what caused the error with his Autoboss. Anyone know of a reader that'll definitely work for a 2002 JDM?

Yeah me too. I got my car NCT'd last week (Irish version of MOT) and it passed everything (including the brakes test) except the lights and the ABS warning light on a 'visual retest' basis. So it's a free retest that involves me popping into them and they'll come out and see if my lights are working (which they are coz I resolved that last night!) and the ABS error on my dash is gone. However, if I don't get it back to them before the 10th of October, I have to get the full test done again (and pay the 50 euro fee again) and the waiting list for the NCT is about 3 weeks. We're also getting penalty points in Ireland now if we're stopped by the police without a NCT certificate.. :/

Thanks Darren. I tried the brake fluid level a while ago with no joy. I think I'm close to exhausting all the possible theories (there's dozens!) on the problem at this point. The idea of getting my own code reader was to sort this ABS/TCS/Slip thing out but seeing as I'm getting this CAN error, I think they may be related. Either way, I need to get the CAN thing sorted first as it'll help pinpoint the ABS/TCS/Slip issue.

Brought my car to someone to read some error codes off my dash in order to get to the bottom of my "ABS/TCS/Slip Off" lights being lit on my dash. The error he got would coincide with the complete lack of communication between the car and my ELM327. The code is "U1001 - CAN Communication" and the possible reasons behind it are "Wiring". Now, this car has been absolutely plagued with wiring issues from the first day I got it nearly 2 years ago. I'm the 4th owner of a 2002 JDM. So far, the noteworthy wiring related things are: MPH/KMH Converter (UK) Fog Light (UK) Delimiter (UK) Harman Kardon iPod connector (UK) 2 Radios (UK/JP) [1 Jap radio worked which had millions of wires behind it - UK one was not powered due to last owner not being arsed] - Entire dash (every dial) dropped and car cut out. Resolved after finding some wires not fully pushed in in the wiring loom which caused alternator not to charge battery. Both the MPH/KMH converter and the (piece of sh1t) Harmon Kardon iPod thing were situated beside the wiring loom. - The alarm was giving issues early on (going off randomly without warning). Resolved after pinpointing the bonnet alarm switch had ceased, tricking the alarm into thinking the bonnet was being opened while alarm was armed. Disconnected switch and covered up wire. - Took out the Harman Kardon iPod Drive+Play thing because it, one day, decided to stay completely illuminated while the car was turned off and the keys out. (http://media.arstechnica.com/reviews/ha ... t_shot.jpg) - ABS / TCS / Slip Off lights all illuminated whilst driving normally. Not resolved to this day. - Found a pool of water in back corner of the boot which may have wet a couple wires that were connected to a battery that (I think?) is related to the rear fog lamp. Resolved after sealing some of the spoiler's screws and couple other places. - Took out the Jap radio because it was really old and awful (Jap must've swapped out the original JDM HU). Installed the much newer, better and never-connected Sony radio that was sitting in the slot below the Jap radio after I got the ISO adapters etc to install it. - Recently realised that my parking lights/side lamps were not working due to a blown fuse which happened after installing latest radio. Resolved after finding Illumination wire on radio was wired incorrectly. All those 'incidents' are in chronological order. I know that's quite a lot of info to take in so thanks if you've gotten this far! Any help or advice about what could be causing this error code would be much appreciated.

Thanks for explaining that spikey! I've not been near the car for the past while so when I get a chance I will definitely get the pads replaced asap. They were low but I didn't tihnk they'd be causing an issue. Much appreciated!

Hmm, tyres have not been changed recently and they're not even that old or worn. They're toyo proxy's. Reason I reset ECU was to clear the codes but they didn't clear. I'm going to get an OBDII scanner just to see, since I've any information that was useful to me anywhere. Any recommendations on the software/cable? Would be looking for a cheapish one to just find any hitches.

Bump as I really need advice without bringing it to a dealership! :( ECU reset didn't clear them! Lights went off for a few hours on 2 occasions and keep coming back! :|

Hello again, seems everytime I'm posting it's as a result of another damn problem. Latest one is this: When you start up the car some lights will come on and go off. Except as of recently, the ABS, TCS Off and SLIP lights are stuck on. Now, I have ABS and I have Traction Control when I'm driving as I've tested this. I've read the one other thread about this but it was quite a long time ago, and I didn't want to drag the topic back up. The suggestions were to change the brake pads or top up the brake fluid. My fluid is up to the top, so I'm going try have a look at the pads tomorrow if I can't find anymore info about it. As soon as this happened I pulled in and turned off the car for a few seconds and turned it back on. The lights were still on. I never turn TCS off and I haven't done doughnuts for about 5 months. I tried disconnecting the battery for 30 mins and the lights were on as soon as I started up the car. They did disappear for a few hours after I had left the car for 2 days, but they came back on an hour later. Anyone got any ideas or advice? Thanks. Other thread on same topic: http://www.350z-uk.com/forum/viewtopic ... s+tcs+slip Edit: Found another thread (vague thread title!): http://www.350z-uk.com/forum/viewtopic ... s+tcs+slip

Hehe, sounds expensive 3Fiddy I've unfortunately got the shitty one that 'just goes up' (some of the time..). Thanks for the info though. I badly need a new HU though. I'm awful with directions and would love something with SatNav. Would love DVD playback as I had that in last car and really miss it. My current radio is so bad, only plays audio CD's and it's a jap one and I havent bothered getting a FM expander so I get bad reception and not even all the channels because I dont have the expander. I'm seeing the 7200 and the 5022 thrown about. Price is about 200+ pound difference though. Any recommendations?

Cheers for the replies guys, and I will look into the standard double din installation seeing as Drexyl has good things to say about it. However, I don't think I explained myself too well initially. Most HU's I'm seeing seem to be double din and installed where existing stereo is. What I was looking for was something that would enable me to fit the screen in the cubbyhole and then put the stereo in it's normal slot. Or am I just being stupid and should I just go ahead with the standard setup? I just kind of like the idea of the cubbyhole being used as a screen and having the radio etc down below.

I've read through a few different threads but a lot are aimed at putting the LCD in the double din radio area. I want to know if there's any head units designed for having an LCD fitted into a cubbyhole like on the Z, or if there's an DIY way around it that someone has tried? Reason being, I was thinking about getting the DDX-5022 but I dunno if I'd like the screen to be so low down, compared to having one installed in the cubbyhole. Also, I read about people having problems with the sound quality due to their current BOSE systems - I have just the standard sound setup from the base Z, so would there be any problems for me?

Ohhh god here we go again... Left the car running for about 30 mins after we got it started yesterday. The battery only got to around 13.5 volts and wouldn't go any higher. So turned it off, gave it a quick wash and when I was finished I was going to go drive it around a bit to get the battery up as much as possible, but my mother had opened one of the doors for a few mins and the courtesy light + beeping (to tell you your door is open) was going off. Car wouldnt start, battery was at about 9volts. Jumped it again and took it for a drive, got it to about 14volts and then left it home. Went to go into work this morning and I was thinking this may or may not work.. and it didn't. Battery is down around the 9volt mark again. Since Monday, the battery has been killed twice or three times so I'm not overly surprised. Any battery spec requirements I should look into for a replacement? I only know about if it fits and it's the correct power outage.

No lol, I'm such a knob. I owe him loads of @*!# after all the help he's given me over the last couple cars. Yeah, the prev owner(s) must've been doing some stupid crap over the years. And thanks again! So happy, I can stop driving my dads 02 Camry. Although I was beginning to enjoy the soft boat-like ride over the last couple days. It's a 2.4lr aswell, but it consistently get's in the high 40's for MPG. Oh well back to the Zed!

Ok a little update, and some success. First, big thanks for the replies, I appreciate the help. Upon looking under the steering wheel for the fuse box we were confronted by a mass of wires that weren't properly tucked under. Looks like the previous owner was installing or uninstalling something and was sloppy. After reseating the wires the speedo came back and it turns out that anytime the speedo was off, the alternator wasn't charging the battery. So, normally the speedo problem was intermittent and a couple potholes later (Irish @*!# roads!) the speedo was back... so it never got to the stage it got on Monday. Reason it died on Monday was that I took a short trip to the petrol station on Sunday night when the speedo died, and I travelled into work and back home for lunch on Monday afternoon with no speedo (so running completely off the battery). We were actually able to cut the power to the engine at will, eventually, when we found the block of wires that was slightly lose. It was a block behind the main power box that was controlling all of this. So it just goes to show how important that everything is in order down there! Note: 'We' refers to my sister's boyfriend resolving all the problems and me standing with my hands in my pockets trying to learn from him!

Yep I think you guys are right. I'm just on here looking for some indication where the alternator fuse would be, and where the fuses for the interior would be. Anyone have any ideas, or even better, a diagram?

Yeah it's getting to that point Stew. It auto-alarms after 40 seconds of the key being out of the ignition, but it doesn't put the snaps down (in case you've left your car in there).... so tell me this. Wtf is the point in alarming an unlocked car which has no immobiliser? So anytime I get petrol and someones in car and I, by habit, take the keys with me, the alarm goes off as there's someone inside. Anyways, my speedometer has been acting the maggot the past few weeks and 'The Alternator Guy' says that I should find the fault with the speedo first and then work through it. He mentioned that the battery is checked by something speedo related when the car is started and if my speedo was acting funny, it may be uncessarily draining power from battery.