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Tim S

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Posts posted by Tim S

  1. Deposit received from TimGSXR - many thanks! :thumbs:

     

    Tim has raised the issue of PayPal recipient fees - he kindly paid the fee when he paid the deposit. Have other people been doing this? I can only see the fees where I've been charged them. I ask because I've been charged for some transactions but most not, and we'll need to work out what to do about fees at the end.

  2. Mine were about £20 from Phil. They rusted to f00k and had to paint them with hammerite. You get what you pay for :lol:;)

     

    +1

     

    Mine are in the garage somewhere if I can find them your welcome to have them, you will need to get them repolished or painted though :)

    I sanded mine back and Hammerited them. Going to the RR day with the MLR I was embarresed they were all rusty, but in their new stealthy black hammerite, no one knew B)

    +3. There was a thread on the other side about covering the body with black heat shrink tubing which I've done with mine, and they look much better now. If only I'd done it when they were new.

     

    Haven't been able to get all the rust stains off the engine bay plastics yet though! Any ideas?

     

    Sorry don't mean to hijack the thread!

  3. The Motul RBF600 works quite well. I recommend to our customers to alternate between it and ATE Super Blue, as they have nearly identical specs wet and dry, and the color change makes it very easy to bleed.

    That's a really good idea.

     

    I'd forgotten about ATE Super Blue. It was very popular on an Audi forum I used to use when I had an Audi.

  4. I can see from looking at the other threads that Mobul RBF600 is recommended - I called Demon Tweeks to check their stock and the guy said not to bother, even for track days as it would need replacing each time??

    Nonsense! Mine's been in 18 months (about 5K miles), 2 track days and a CAT driver training day and it's fine.

     

    The one thing I cant seem to find out is how much fluid I would need to completely replace the OEM stuff (which I managed to boil at brands last week). Seems to come in 1/2 litre bottles

    From memory I used 1.5l i.e. 3 bottles.

     

    Camskill was the cheapest when I did mine.

     

    Are you sure you boiled the fluid? You might have overheated the pads (which I've done on track before). After normal road driving for a few hundred miles the overheated surface wears off and the braking performance comes back.

  5. Could a mod please change the thread title from "Gauging Interest" to "Open" please. :thumbs:

    Done - you can change it yourself by editing your first post :)

     

    Will PP my deposit in a second. I think we have enough that its brought the price into the right braket for me B)

    Thanks for changing the title, now I know for next time. :blush:

     

    Deposit received, thanks.

     

    Another interested party here, awaiting PayPal details

    PM sent.

  6. As we don't have firm numbers yet and we don't know what the exchange rate will be I don't yet know what the exact cost per pedal will be, but we know it will be between roughly £31 + P&P at this end and (worse case scenario) £48 + P&P.

    I would need to know an exact price before moving on it. At £30-£35, I'd be in but at £48 I'd be out. :)

     

    +1 :blush:

    I completely understand guys. Unfortunately I can't give an exact exact price due to currency fluctuations and not knowing what rate PayPal are going to give us but I can give an indication as we go on and people join (hopefully).

     

    I've got a couple of definites plus me at the moment which gives a price of roughly £39 + UK P&P. This is based on $40 per pedal + $50 / 3 shipping and using the exchange rates on Yahoo (PayPal may be worse). One more would bring it down to something like £36 + P&P, 2 more £34.50 + P&P and so on.

  7. LoL typical Nissan! I cant see the price dropping though, so I still think we should close it in time and if theres still demand maybe have a new one with the new price :teeth:

    I agree.

     

    Adam - if we close the GB on Friday and I get the order in to you on Monday at the latest does that give you enough time to get the order in to Japan?

     

    As we don't have firm numbers yet and we don't know what the exchange rate will be I don't yet know what the exact cost per pedal will be, but we know it will be between roughly £31 + P&P at this end and (worse case scenario) £48 + P&P.

     

    Would people be happy to PayPal me a deposit of £25 to secure? I'll PM my PayPal details to interested parties later unless there's wide disagreement with that idea.

     

    Also, I'll roll the PayPal charges into the final amount if that's ok.

     

    If we get this together I'm completely open to pick-up in person to save P&P at this end (I'm between envy South and the M25) or could even distribute at a Southern mini-meet.

     

    Feedback welcome!

  8. Ex biker, had a tankslapper at about 95 on a straight road in the middle of nowhere after hitting a raised catseye holder with no cateye in it last year, then bought the Z. I absolutely love bikes but they are dangerous. I used my bike everyday in all weathers and noticed a big difference between me and the weekend boys when we went out. To be honest its no wonder so many of them bite the dust. I was quick, and did a few trackdays, nurburgring etc, but not stupid and valued my life. The reality often was that they would never account for a car coming round a corner slightly wide. A lot of bikers whinge about people not seeing them but thats a reality that needs to be accounted for when riding. No doubt about it, there are a lot of @*!# drivers out there but there are a lot of dodgy riders aswell.

    Ex biker here too (or just between bikes - not sure ;)), completely agree with you.

  9. Bought the noise meter back from work today, I spoke to one of the organisers and they said that the reading will be taken at a 45degree angle up from the exhaust at distance of 0.5m

    :thumbs: Yep - static tests are normally at 3/4 max revs too.

     

    I've found some testers measure from one exhaust and some from halfway between the two. Not sure if it makes much difference!

  10. +1 to everything that's been said already.

     

    I personally have never bothered with track day insurance, and haven't had need for it either (touch wood).

     

    I always take a socket set and torque wrench with me just in case. Worth torquing the wheel nuts at the start of the day and during the day too (speaking as someone who lost a wheel nut at the Brighton Speed Trials because I didn't check them before the first run :blush:).

     

    Also worth taking a tyre pressure gauge and pump, and also remove all the crap from the car before you set off.

     

    Finally if there's cheap instruction available take advantage of it - it's normally only £20 or so and if nothing else you'll be taught the lines and braking points.

     

    Oh, and if you've got a very loud 'zorst be aware that Coombe's noise limit is 100dB.

  11. If anyone else finds the Z not the easiest car to heel & toe, this mod could be of interest:

     

    http://cornerbalance.wordpress.com/2009/02/02/380rs-gas-pedal-install/

     

    Adam @ Z1 can supply these for $40 each + $30 shipping for one pedal, or $50 for shipping of 10 (i.e. $5 each) so there's a fair saving to be had if a few of us club together.

     

    I would then forward them on at this end at cost (roughly a fiver I reckon, maybe less).

     

    Post below if interested!

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