beechie

Hi, This is Dorian (prescience) - I desperately hope this situation is not as bad as you and the medical bulletins are making it sound. Thoughts are with you

The idiot's guide as requested by Liam 1. Upload your gif to your photobucket account (assume you can do this) 2. Copy the link from here (Copy == Ctrl-C ) [nb single click selects the whole line to make life easy] 3. Open your profile from the 'Edit Your Profile' button 4. Paste the image to here (Paste == Ctrl-V ) 5. Submit - to save changes

Gobshite Just link to an offsite image by entering it in the following area in your control panel (eg a photobucket image) Link to off-site Avatar: Enter the URL of the location containing the Avatar image you wish to link to.

No LOL

Is the problem that the image is too big?

Ok let's say no more before I get slatted for going of topic This thread has already gone so far off-topic earlier, that its met itself on the way back from a night out

Possibly - would be wanting some significant reassurance if it was me embarking on such a project

I am saying nothing of the kind because I don't know. What I do know is that PE do LHD/RHD, APS do LHD/RHD and from a post in the Australia sub-forum of my350Z (link above), GReddy stated in direct response to a question to an Australian guy about the GReddy kit, that they do not provide a RHD kit for JDM cars. You might doubt it, but the evidence is written there and needs to be refuted by GReddy before a purchase would be a wise choice IMO. The issue I have seen elsewhere is due to the fitment of the kit with the RHD manifold

I'm glad its all my fault even though I had no direct involvement in it whatsoever - influence from beyond the great divide I might point out that in 7 months of being a Mod/Admin I never deleted a post (by anyone other than myself) without contacting them about it. That is quite a different matter from wishing that the content of the posts would remain more on topic more of the time (which personally I do, but hey its not down to me to tell people what to do). I would choose personally rather to try to do that by encouragement, mickey-taking and the like rather than by disposal after the event. All IMO of course.

I noticed that 50 posts have been deleted since last night and was just wondering what they were and where they'd gone [i apologise for using this account, but it is unavoidable ATM since my normal ISP is down - dorian]

Well I nipped out for a nice meal and bottle of a 1/2 decent wine tonight and I was pleasantly surprised to see so many new topics. I clicked all of them and why - what a bunch of shite - come on guys

FOURTH POST Another alternative posted by Dr Bonz (better known as Zaino king in the US), this involves removal of a weight in the hatch - don't know any details on this one but he says ...... Also, taking out the weight from under the plastic cover will decrease the overall weight of the hatch and it'll spring up easier. This is especially true if you have a wing spoiler that adds to the overall hatch weight. The first pic is with the weight removed.

THIRD POST This is an alternative approach to dis-assembly but uses the same extra-compression principle - less permanent than above but quick!

SECOND POST Rear Hatch Opening Fix HOW-TO Disclaimer: I am not responsible for any misinformation in this document or any damage that may occur to your vehicle from following this document. Consult your service manual for specific Nissan recommended instructions. Introduction Many 350z's suffer the same fate mine did. It usually starts when it starts getting cold; you would hit the trunk release, and it would pop, but would still be caught, requiring a second press of the release, or worse, a slight lift up and then hitting the release again. Usually this starts out intermittent, and gets worse over time. The dealer even replaced my struts, and the problem returned within a year. Nissan finally issued a TSB (Technical Service Bulletin) over the problem, NTB04042, which instructs the dealer to replace the lifting springs. This DIY fix works just as well, and saves you a trip to the dealership. Tools Required None! Woohoo! Recommended Extras Small Slot Screwdriver Supplies Needed 4 US Pennies Start The culprit of this task is the small boot covered springs located on the underside of the rear hatch. There is one spring mounted near where the hatch struts attach. Rear Hatch Springs Remove one of the springs by simply grabbing it at the base, and twisting it either direction 90 degrees. The tabs that hold it in place will become free and you can remove the entire assembly from the hatch. Spring Mount Point Spring with Boot Next you need to pull the boot off the spring. The boot is simply stretched over a lip on the base of the spring. Pull the rubber back away from the base and down away from the base of the spring, working your way around. Once you break the seal, it will come off much easier. This is where the small screwdriver may come in handy if you are having a problem breaking the seal from the base. Boot pulled away from base. Note the lip at the bottom of the black plastic. Once the boot is free, remove it completely from the spring. Take two of your pennies, and place them flat at the bottom of the inside of the boot. Disassembled Spring and Boot Pennies in the boot Simply drop the spring back into the boot, and stretch the top of the boot back over the lip of the spring base. Be sure to pull boot up all the way around so its over the lip and snug. Be sure to pull boot all the way back up to the black tabs Once the boot is secured and even all the way around, simply insert base of spring back into hole in rear hatch, and turn 90 degees to lock in place. Repeat the same steps with the spring and boot for the other side and you're done! Shut the trunk, hit the release, and rejoice in the magic that is a trunk that opens every time!

I found this information form a US forum for you, hope it helps. It is from my (prescience) works account which makes it easier for me This post contains one version of the fix. The second post the same but perhaps with better pics it certainly shows more clearly how to remove from the car - you will note that this refers to a TSB NTB04042. The third post is an alternative whereby you can attach thin felt or similar pads to the bottom of the rubber surround without removing it - this has a similar effect of compressing the spring. On the plus side, you don't need to remove so much stuff, on the negative these do need replacing. The fourth post posted by Dr Bonz (better known as Zaino king in the US), this involves removal of a weight in the hatch - don't know any details on this one. FIRST POST OK, this is about as easy a fix as you'll ever find. Took me at least 2 minutes and cost a whopping $0.06 (I supersized to 3 pennies on each side). 1) Open the rear hatch 2) Locate the bump stops/openers on each side of the hatch (one on each side pictures in the photo below). 3) Grab ahold of the top and twist it. It doesn't unscrew as you need to align the top of it with the hole in the hatch. 4) You should now have the piece in your hand. 5) Take the correguated rubber housing and move it over the lip of the top of the bump/spring. I've done 1/2 of it in this picture to show you what it should look like. 6) Drop 2 or 3 pennies in the bottom, and re-assemble. Hope that helps you all out there. If you have any questions, PM me and I'll be happy to answer them.