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Loki

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Everything posted by Loki

  1. Solved it, the AC module wasn't connected, plugged that back in and the dash is working again, even the engine management lights back on, never been so glad to see that! Stereo still doesn't work though, ordered a new harness loom because I'd snipped the old one back so they'd take up less room but must have messed up, I cut them back because of all the wires and connecting blocks stuffed behind the head unit which I'm sure is the source of the original squeak I was trying to fix in the first place
  2. Cheers for reading. So over the last couple of days I've been refitting a new stereo after the car developed another squeak in the centre console after the original install and I wanted to fit the wired mic for hands free calls. There is also a cig lighter housing from the previous owner used to power the charger of a aftermarket Sat Nav, not sure if it's wired to the lighter port in the dash of if it's connected to stereo, but It did have a earth wire attached to the frame. I mention this because I'm thinking maybe I've blown a fuse because it wasn't earthed when I tested, though the light on the charger does work when the car switched on now I've wired it in properly. Anyway, as the title says, I tested the head unit before screwing everything back together and nothing, the stereo didn't switch on, that's when I noticed the dash, the petrol gauge was reading empty and the light was on, even though there's over half a tank, also the ABS, traction control and stability control lights where on, but not the engine management which should have been, since I've just fitted a new exhaust and the Cats must be knackered because the light came on the day after (Friday) the install. I tried disconnecting the battery and connecting it again (it works with computers so why not try) but the lights remained on, so I though I'd take a trip round the block to see if they'd turn themselves off or if there was a real problem with then, that's when I noticed the dials weren't working either, no rev's, no speedo, not even the multi gauge worked (though the battery and oil pressure gauges do give a reading) but it did light up and display something but I couldn't select any options. I'm hoping it's just a blown fuse but that's about the limit of understanding of these type of things, has anyone else had this happen to them and how did you go about fixing it? Thanks in advance for any help or advice, it's greatly appreciated
  3. Thanks, good to know I don't need to start removing trim, looking forward to it now
  4. Cheers for getting back to me. Planning on giving it a try over the weekend, it does sound easy enough, guess I'll have more of a idea when get into. Thanks again
  5. Thanks for responding. Is it possible to run it round that way and just tuck the wires underneath the plastic covers or did you need to remove them? How easy did you find fitting the mic?
  6. Thanks for reading. I'm wanting to fit a new stereo to the Zed and it has Bluetooth capabilities and came with a wired microphone. So, I'm wondering if anyone has done this mod and how they went about it? I've managed to find some videos of how to remove the factory head unit but nothing on how to run the wire round the interior, whilst hiding the wire but could live with it showing from the windscreen pillar to the visor, I'd prefer not mess around with the roof lining. As always thanks in advance, any help or advice is greatly appreciated
  7. Thanks Azurez thats a great help. Also, thanks to Msitpro from a previous thread for linking www.willtheyfit.com , the site is a really helpful resourse and gave loads of useful info
  8. Hi, I'm looking at some aftermarket wheels for the Zed. The one's I like the look of are; F 8.5x18 et32 & R 9.5x18 et35. I wanted to keep the 18's because I've hear that the 19's negitivly effects handling too much and the traction control also has issues. I'm going for either 245's or 255's on the front and would like to go upto 275's on the rear, I believe these should fit but whcih side wall profile should I go for? With the pot holes and speed bumps around here I'm still on factory suspension and like having the higher profiles extra protection, that being said how it looks is also important. I've had a read of some of the other threads on this topic and it sounds like most prefer 40's over 45's and that the 45's can look a little balloony especially on the rear, obviously I'd like to avoid this. Just to confuse things further the retailer I'm buying from says that the correct profile is 35's on the rear and 45's on the front for these wheels. It seems the more infomation I get the more confusing things are, so I figured I'd ask the pro's here Any help or advice is greatly appreciated Thanks in advance
  9. Thanks Zmanalex, that's really helpful, i'll get a Motordyne one ordered
  10. Hey Zmanalex, thanks for responding. I've got a '05 DE Zed, I'm going to be fitting; '07 Up rev air box (with Velocity stack), Mishimoto inlet pipe, Plenum spacer*, manifold back Magnaflow exhaust with high flow cats and going to get a remap from either RS tuning or TDi North, I live near the M62. I'm hoping to get some where near 300bhp, depending how far away it is, in the furture I'd look into some headers or a MREV 2 lower plenum, maybe both. Then another tune.
  11. I'm looking at making some performance upgrades to the Zed and would appreciate some advice on which plenum you would recommend. My first choice is the Motordyne 5/16" ISO Thermal Spacer but I can't find any UK stock anywhere, only Tarmac Sports have it listed but they state "contact us for lead time", so I doubt they'll be able to get one in the next couple of weeks https://www.tarmacsportz.co.uk/motordyne-nissan-350z-vq35de-5-16-iso-thermal-plenum-spacer.html The only ones they do have in stock is the Basic Motordyne 5/16", which has less hardware then the ISO kit. Can anyone explain what the difference is between these kits? https://www.tarmacsportz.co.uk/motordyne-nissan-350z-5-16-basic-plenum-spacer.html While searching I also spotted the Torqen Plenumz, I do like the custom colours look and they have the same hardware kit as the Motordyne ISO spacer for the price of the basic Motordyne one and most importantly they are in stock https://www.torqen.uk/nissan/350z/engine/plenum-spacers/53879-350z-de-torqen-plenumz-trq-vqde-psz.html I'm really interested in hearing what others have to say about these spacers or any others you think I should consider? I am looking to fit these in the next couple of weeks so being in stock is the primary concern but more info is always greatly appreciated. Thanks for reading
  12. @ATTAK Z, not had any problems with 5th to 6th, but will keep an eye on it. Thanks for all the great advice everyone, going to get it booked in for a service as soon as lock downs over. I do have a little tip for anyone with a similar issue, I've noticed it helps improve the gear change if I rev the Zed to over 3000+rpm in first, the throw is much smoother even when cold, been doing it for a few days now and it's transformed shifting.
  13. Thanks for all the responses, it's a relief that it's common. Would it be better to have the transmission fluid changed before adding the Molyslip? Is OEM fliud better or going for something more exotic?
  14. Know what you mean, I have noticed that the Zed has quite a small window for getting a perfect gear shift. Just have to be a bit more deliberate with it I guess and hope speed comes with experience. Thanks for the help
  15. Hey thanks for reading. As the title says, I'm a new proud owner of a 350Z and having a bit of bother when changing between 1st and 2nd, it's worse when cold. I don't get any crunching when changing, it more like a metallic clink feeling in the gear stick, like I've disengaged the clutch just as the gears teeth meet and can feel them clink together (it's a bit like when trying to get reverse and teeth don't line up and you need to roll forward a little). All other gear changes are fine and smooth even cold, though I'm not sure when or if it's ever had a new clutch. Any help or advice is greatly appreciated
  16. Sounds very similar to my issue, certainly the crapping myself bit is spot on It does make me worry I could squash next door's cat if I keep going while it's beeping away, just imagine if they saw it happen, it'd take some explaining. Think I'll get in touch with a Nissan specialist and see if they've experienced anything similar, does anyone know if the 350 shares sensors with any other model (excluding the 370 obviously)?
  17. Thanks for the tip, had a look this afternoon and couldn't see any water. Checked around under the bumper as well and no obvious fluids
  18. I'd like to say Hello and thanks for reading, this is my very first thread so please be gentle, hoping I've put it in the right place. I'm been the proud new owner of a Zed for the past month and a half now, very happy with it so far despite a couple of annoying issues which probably deserve their own thread. Today I'm asking for advice on the latest problem, namely after having the bumper painted the rear parking sensor have started making a new noise. It still makes the single beep when reversed is engaged but now there is a 3 to 5 second burst of repeated "beep beep beep" even when there's nothing behind me, it seems to do this roughly every 30 seconds. The sensors do still work, tested them earlier and as I walked towards them, they made the same sounds they always have. Firstly they haven't been painted over, my original thought was they might be a failed/unplugged sensor and this is a warning tone to advise it needs looking at or it could be a sound to remind that your in reverse and a previous owner has had the software modified so it didn't make this particular noise. As I said I'm a completely new to the 350 so any help and advice is greatly appreciated
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