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Loki

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  1. I think the modification I've most looked forward to has to be the remap, ever since I found out about the poor throttle response in the first three gears. I don't fully understand why Nissan did this, it would make more sense if the Zed didn't have traction control but since it does, why? If anyone has any idea please let me know. Not only is it my most looked forward to, it's also the one I've had to wait the longest for. I booked the appointment with TDi North in Warrington on the 15th April but didn't get in until 25th of May. They did explain that they where booked up with race cars before the new season starts and their usual wait is about 4 weeks. Anyway, eventually the 25th did arrive and I jumped onto the M62 in the hope I'd be driving back a completely new feeling car. When I arrived I was met with a line of Civic Tyre R racers, a Porsche Cayman race car, TDi's own GTR and a mint black MK4 2JZ Supra, I knew I was in the right place. I do want to say I didn't get exactly what I expected, when I choose TDi, I had read that they were able to give the Zed 5 select-able maps using the cruise control switch's on the steering wheel, including pops and bangs and immobilizer maps. Sadly I was informed they no longer offer this service and that it was actually risky to put pops and bangs on the car, I've had a look round this and other forums and couldn't find out one way or another but if they don't do it any more, what can you do. Okay enough rambling, lets get on with the numbers, it made 301bhp with 266.8 lbft torque, throttle response is immediate and the exhaust has even more of a growl to it and really sounds awesome when my foots buried deep in the carpet, which might explain the the poorer mpg but who buys a Zed to be economical. Over all I'm very happy, I got the 300 I was hoping for and the car rev's much quicker and just feels altogether more alive. If I was to say one negative thing about about getting the remap done, it has increased my clutch paranoia, as far as I can tell my Zed has never had a new clutch and I understand these usually only last about 40k, with mine on 80k it probably should of had two by now, so it's more than due to go. Could this remap push it over then edge? I guess we're going to find out, if it does I'll use the opportunity to fit a lightweight flywheel, so the revs drop as quick as they rise. Thanks for reading.
  2. Thanks, I am enjoying the new rubber. I think your probably right, don't know if it's something I'll just get used to or not though, but I'll sure enjoy finding out. What's next? Well funny you should ask....*Spoiler Alert* It's a remap. See below 😁
  3. Your welcome, glad your enjoying it. I had been looking at some Enkei RPF1 wheels but after spotting the 2Forge, which are very similar, I thought lightness would be the way to go.
  4. Thanks for posting and for the compliment, the reason I went with Goodyear is because of their performance in the wet. The biggest drawback of going wider is the drop off in the rain but the F1 Eagle Supersport are by far the best in this comparison/review video in slippery conditions. I'm hoping they will offset the loss from the wider track. There're also not far of the best Michelin and Continental in the dry either, possibly making them the best all rounder. Check out the video it's quiet interesting if your looking into some new ultra high performance rubber, they test most of the popular brands.
  5. As promised I can finally post some pictures of my new wheels. Take a look and read this after, you know you want to.... They're 2Forge ZF5's semi-forged Gloss Gunmetal Front 18x9.0 Offset 17 8.4 kg (Approx) 255.40 Goodyear Eagle F1 Supersport Rear 18x10.0 Offset 25 8.8 kg (Approx) 275.40 Same as above (Rears have a deeper design) What makes these special is they are a rotary forged universal race wheel made to order, but to keep costs down they are designed to have custom PCD's drilled and offsets shaved instead of having to re-engineer for each individual stud patter, meaning I paid about £225 a corner for very light wheels. The weight is approx because it's what they weigh at full offset of ET35, but with the difference between the 9.0 and 10.0 being only 0.4kg I doubt it's far off. So, what do I think? Well I've had them on for a couple of weeks and I noticed the extra grip straight away, there's a almost cork screw like road near me and it's a good place to test both front and rear end grip and I can feel the extra "G" as neither end loses adhesion. Turn in doesn't feel quiet as crisp but once the lateral force is on the side of the tyre it just keeps holding on, I do think there's still grip on turn in, it's just feels numb some how, but not in a bad way because it only happens for a fraction of a second the it's back sticking to the road again. Looking forward to some wet roads to see if she still slides. I will admit I bought these mainly for the looks, the OEM Rays are alright but they just don't fill the arches and it does spoil the look ever so slightly, filling those gaps is probably the best cosmetic mod for the Zed and I have to say I am very happy with the result, especially the rear end, it's such an aggressive stance.
  6. Thanks for reading, glad your enjoying the tread. Yeah got lucky with the exhaust, had been saving for a new one, then spotted that, really enjoy the sound as well, the more I modify the better it gets.
  7. After changing to some aftermarket wheels, I now have my OEM Rays for sale. The alloys are in good condition, there are some curb marks as you'd expect, the left hand side is slightly worst than the right, with the FL wheel having light scuffing all around the rim, no big chunks missing. The FR and RL are roughly the same, a couple of deeper scuffs but generally look tidy. The RR wheel is the best of the bunch, no scuffs and good clean edge. There is same very small bubbling but I only mention this to give you full disclosure, it is only minor and is isn't really noticeable unless you get up close, I only realised when I was taking the pictures and hadn't seen it before. I wasn't going to refurb these, I don't think the need it, maybe in a few years but for now they'd be fine, also the tyres are pretty much new, the fronts have done about 500 miles and the rears around 1,000 of traction controlled miles, no burn outs, Bridgestone Portenza S001's F225 R245. Check out the photo's and please PM me or leave a reply if your interested and I'll get back to you. I've 2 prices so you can decide whats best for you. Delivery by Paisley Freight. Cash on collection £400 Paypal/Delivery £465
  8. I'd like to say, and there you have it a successful build in a 350Z but this little scorpion has a sting in its tail. My aim was do do the job either alone or with a spare set of hands, which I needed in the end, when refitting the trim it was a lot easier with two to line it up right, I also wanted to help anyone else who might consider a similar job, to whom I now must apologise because when I saw this I shat myself. Some where in there are the wires I needed and I couldn't even begin to guess which one they are. I did find a switch though, no idea what it does but there is a loud beep when I turn it on and (what I had thought was an alarm sensor by the door, is actually) a light that turns on with it. I'm hoping to solve this mystery when I take it to the auto electric shop next week, yes you read that right, every thing is done but those door speakers I'm leaving to the professionals, makes me ill just thinking about it......
  9. So here we are, it's time to get your hands dirty. The install. When first looking at the interior it can appear quiet daunting but really it's just a 3D puzzle where you need to remove the parts in order, this video will take you through it step by step. It's easy when you know how. What this video doesn't cover is how to run the power wire from the engine bay to the cabin. These are a couple of pictures of how I did it, be very careful not to damage any of the other wires when cutting the rubber gromit, that would be bad. Also even though you can't see it there is a fuse in the wire, this needs to be fairly close to the battery for it to work effectively. The cable will come out in the passenger foot well. Now we're going to look at how to run the wires through the cabin, there are two schools of thought on this, some say don't cross your power wire with any other, it can cause interference to RCA and speaker cables, others say that's a load of rubbish. I don't know for sure either way, but I reckon why risk it. With all the trim removed it's very simple just to run the power wiring under the carpet by the seat and the passenger side speaker cable along the edge of the door under where the rubber fits. The earth is easy to find as well, both sides have a unpainted earth point which can be used and the frame work has plenty of cutouts to run the wires through. As I said I'm using the glove box behind the passenger for the amp install, please excuse the basic diagram but this is how I ran my wires.
  10. It's been a while since my last post, this is mainly because I hadn't actually done the install. So last weekend and with a little help, I set about the job at hand. Before I get into that lets talk about amplifiers, most importantly how to choose the right one for your build. Most modern amps can handle both 2 Ohm's and 4 Ohms, but if your reading this far, you'll most likely be interested in the 4 Ohms. For this project I have a 5 channel amp, 4 Speaker and 1 Sub woofer, before you buy one, check your speakers spec's first, specifically the continuous power output, the Pioneer TS-A1670F have a 70 watt C.P.O and the Pioneer TS-A2500LS4 sub I'm using is 300 watt C.P.O. The most important thing when buying a car amp is not to exceed the continuous power output of your speakers, being under is fine, I could run mine from a 50 watt per channel amp, it would be under powered and short of their true potential but would work without any problems. Of course running over the C.P.O. only has one expensive outcome, don't risk it. You've probably noticed I'm using Pioneer kit and are most likely expecting a similar theme with the amplifier and truth be told I did search the internet for a Pioneer 4x 70 watt + 300 watt Sub amp and I just couldn't find one. I did eventually find the perfect amp, a Phoenix Gold MX800.5. Now I have to admit I'd never heard of the brand, after googling and checking you tube for reviews there was nothing on the MX800.5. I dug a bit further and they seem to be okay, quiet big back in the day then went a bit crap for a while but are back at their best again, looking forward to putting it to the test. https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/303848829035?epid=22034755059&hash=item46becd306b:g:ZIAAAOSwWU1gAa~m Now we have the all the required hardware, lets talk wires. The spec's will usually tell you which gauge wires and amp fuse you'll need, I'd also ask the seller just to double check and give you some leeway if there are any issues down the line. I bought mine form the same place as the amp after reading some bad reviews for the branded kits, usually the blue "switcher" wire is very low thread wire and the other wires are shorter than advertised. You should also invest in some ferrules, these fit to the end of the speaker wire and help prevent any stray wire from shorting on the amp, they do a really good job and are cheap, I can't recommend them high enough. https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/264083657718?hash=item3d7c9cd3f6:g:ROQAAOSwWXRfa0SZ https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/223246849307?hash=item33fa8c951b:g:6bwAAOSwm-Fb95zF
  11. I have to admit I'd like a system similar to the multi sub set up but sadly that isn't the reality. It does look cool though 😎
  12. Now the initial issues with the Zed are resolved it's now time to bolt on some bits and get the motor in optimal condition for a future remap, and maybe gain a pony or two. So without further ado let's get into it. Firstly, servicing a few bit's can go along way when your wanting push the limits on a dyno, it definitely won't hurt. HP-1008 K&N Oil Filter fits Nissan 350Z 3.5 V6 2003-2009 https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/381713555729?fits=Car+Make%3ANissan|Model%3A350Z&hash=item58dfe6a111:g:OUUAAOSwXN5amm6l DENSO IKH16TT IRIDIUM TT SPARK PLUGS https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/163183041006?epid=19026917692&hash=item25fe7799ee:g:3u8AAOSwP4FaCrNW HKS Super Air Filter https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/303349669616?fits=Model%3A350Z&epid=26035665498&hash=item46a10c9ef0:g:XdwAAOSwmlZfF-QX Castrol Edge 5W-30 LL 4L 4 Litres Full Synthetic Car Engine Oil Titanium FST (4.7 Lt needed) (Massive link, just search it) Since the garage already had some of the engine bay disassembled because of the spark plugs, it was the right time to gain some BHP Motordyne Nissan 350Z VQ35DE 5/16" Basic Plenum Spacer (Claimed 11-13 (W?)BHP gain) https://www.tarmacsportz.co.uk/motordyne-nissan-350z-5-16-basic-plenum-spacer.html A little thread about why I choose this spacer 2006-07 Rev up Air Box with velocity stack (Claimed 5 BHP gain) And just to help it breath a little easier Mishimoto Silicone Air Intake Hose Kit - fits Nissan 350Z VQ35DE - 03-06 - Red (Claimed 2-3 BHP gain) https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/154368939052?epid=3012505299&hash=item23f11b142c:g:kY0AAOSweANgS4ko I choose this inlet pipe because it's silicon and won't be effected by heat sink like plastic and especially metal are, also it's ribbed (FHP😉) so it won't contract under load either. According to to manufactures I've gain as much as 21(W)BHP not including the supposed gain from the air filter which I'm not counting since it already had a K&N panel filter in. So whats the verdict now I've had chance to get some miles done, I have to say I haven't noticed much of a difference, it might rev a little easier, there's no dramatic change though, I know I'll need a remap before getting the best out of these mods and this has just been the ground work for whats to come. But I have to say I'm more excited about having the delayed throttle response in 1st to 3rd removed with the tune than I've been with these bolt on's, which to be fair with the Zeds ECU dialing out the upgrades gains, I've got pretty much exactly what I expected. The remap can't come soon enough. (Have my old '05 air box with K&N filter up for sale, if anyone's interested. Going to post it in the correct thread soon)
  13. The 10 inch Subwoofer problem. When I started this build I always knew the sub would cause me the most trouble, it has but not in the way I originally thought. The plan was to get a custom box built just like the one in the professional build video, my only worry was the fabricated fibreglass section at the bottom of the frame. Which is needed because the factory sub is slightly larger than the frame and sticks out leaving a gap, this needs to be filled to made the box air tight. I couldn't help but wonder if there was a better way, so I decided to read a few more threads and see what other people had done. I guess the first thing I found was that the metal frame used to house the sub in the factory location is far from the best material for mounting a speaker, even if you use sound deadening the flex from the metal will spoil the sound, so that was out. I kept on reading and it seems the sub has been an issue for many people before us. I read stories of downward firing, upward firing and replacing the metal frame with MDF, but in every thread there were people saying the same, it'll sound terrible and that the factory location is the worst place for a sub. I was beginning to lose faith until I found a thread which I believed could solve the problem. The poster was using CAD design software, sound recording equipment, making prototype boxes and had easy access to the factory location, they also posted their plans for other people to copy, I thought I'd hit the mother-load. Sadly it wasn't to be, all the attempts the OP tried failed, the factory location as it turns out is a terrible place for a 10 inch sub. The only people to make it work, use 8 Inch subs in a enclosed box because they will fit into the factory slot allowing removal of the metal frame but getting a 10 inch to works it seems is a no go. So what now. For you there are two options and these depend if you want to keep your spare wheel or not. Custom subwoofer enclosure under rear strut bar or in the boot where the spare is. Both have their drawbacks, the "boot" is also only 15cm deep, so a shallow sub is necessary here and because I prefer bass below the ears and not above like it would be with the strut bar type I'm going to lose my spare. The truth is both will produce better sound and deeper bass than in the factory location. Which ever you choose, stay tuned because I still have the amplifier and rear speaker install to cover.
  14. I had a couple of other things done at the same time and I took in my own fluid so couldn't say how it was exactly, but do know it's not a big job. The actual fluid change is probably only a ten minutes. Like a oil change they will just drain the sump, adding the fluid is different because you need to pump it in because the entrance is on the side instead of the top and they might need to do a "run in" drive to make sure the Moly Slip mixes properly. Whether or not it needs to be pre-arranged depends really, do you have a appointment time or do you drop it off in the morning and pick it up at the end of the day? Appointment might not give enough time to do the job if other MOT's are booked after yours or the car lift is needed. if you drop it off and pick it up later, I'm sure they can do the work providing they can get the fluid. Best bet is to phone them tomorrow, just to give them a little notice about what you want doing and they'll be happy to help. I'd imagine that you'll be looking at half hours labour, the change needs 3 litres of Nissan's own brand high performance transmission fluid, I paid just over £50 from ebay for mine but garages are going to charge more and will need to order it from Nissan, who may or may not have stock but at worst it'll be the next day. Moly slip is about £10-15 but again add on a little for the garage's cut. All in I'm guessing you'll be looking at anything from £100 to £168. £15-30 Labour £65-80 Fluid £20-25 Moly Slip £25-33 VAT 25% If you interested in knowing a little more about servicing the Zed then this video's really useful.
  15. One of the best things about buying a new car is the nice little surprises the previous owners leave for you, I'm joking of course, it's a nightmare. Checking service history can minimize the risk, but it's no guarantee, it seem my car was owned by a cable tie junkie because they're everywhere, including being used to attach the side skirts to the car. The most alarming was when I found out the engine undertray was held on by them, especially so because I'd paid for a premium pre-purchase inspection by "clickmechanic" which should of involved the car to be lifted and checked underneath. According to the seller the guy was more interested in taking it out for a burn (can't blame him but still) then giving it a proper once over and didn't look underneath the car at all. He did give me some decent bartering tips though but I don't think I'd recommend them. Go with either AA or RAC, they are a little pricier but probably better service. It wasn't just the ruined undertray he missed either, the rear W brace looked like it'd taken more hit's than a blind Tarzan and resulted in an advisory at the last MOT for rusting away. My mission this week was to get both replaced. I realise these aren't the sexiest of mods but necessary ones and a opportunity to drop a gram or two off the old girl. First I when with a aluminium under tray from Tarmac sports, from what I've read they are a little lighter than stock and add better rigidity to the front bumper, or I could be taking out my rigidity... https://www.tarmacsportz.co.uk/nissan-350z-aluminium-undertray.html I also replaced the W brace with a Ultra Racing one that adds more stability, fits without modifications and has a solid one piece design according to their blurb. My hope is it lasts, it is powder coated so should be fine and was cheaper than the OEM option. https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/142958499407 Lastly since they were under there I had the gear box fluid changed and added some Moly Slip to help with problems going from 1st to 2nd especially when cold. I have to say It has made a huge difference, there is still a very slight knock, used to be more of a clunk but definitely happier with it now. Here's the thread. This is more of a update post than anything else but I do have other more exciting mods planned for the next few weeks, which I'm looking forward to sharing with you all. So stay tuned and thanks for reading.
  16. In this post I'm going to cover the front speaker install. Firstly the speaker size you want are 6 1/2 inches/16.5 cm, these will fit both front and rear enclosures. For this and ever build really, I recommend coaxial 3 way speakers, these come with 3 different dedicated cones for the full sound spectrum of Highs, Mid-range and bass, importantly for this build they also have a built in crossover, meaning no extra hardware between the amplifier and speaker. They sound better as well and you don't need a replacement tweeter wiring into the factory location, why create the extra work? *I'm also going to go into wiring in new cables, these modifications aren't easily reversed and could damage your car, so please move forward with caution.* Now that's out of the way, lets get into what you need/I've bought to do this job Pioneer TS-A1670F - 6.5" 16.5cm 320W Max Power 3 Way Coaxial Car Door Speakers https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Pioneer-TS-A1670F-6-5-16-5cm-320W-Max-Power-3-Way-Coaxial-Car-Door-Speakers/352477001361 2pcs 165mm Front/Rear Door Speaker Adaptor Kit Rings for Nissan 350Z *Needs to be at least an inch depth to fit speaker in shallow enclosure* https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/2pcs-165mm-Front-Rear-Door-Speaker-Adaptor-Kit-Rings-for-Nissan-350Z-Juke-Cube/333808471926 6.5 INCH SPEAKER BAFFLE SILICON INCLUDING BACKING FOAM https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/6-5-INCH-SPEAKER-BAFFLE-SILICON-INCLUDING-BACKING-FOAM/193746233724?hash=item2d1c2ce97c:g:JYQAAOSwfw5frGEN Dodo Mat DEADN ® Hex Car Sound Deadening 5.83m Bulk Roll Vibration Proofing Mat. *This is the amount I estimate for the full install not just the doors* https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Dodo-Mat-DEADN-Hex-Car-Sound-Deadening-5-83m-Bulk-Roll-Vibration-Proofing-Mat/162406372457 2 x Car Sound Deadening Application Roller Installation Wheel Pushing Tool S + L 12PC CAR TRIM DOOR PANEL PLASTIC DASH REMOVAL MOLDING SET INTERIOR PRY TOOL KIT (the links for these were massive so just search the above on ebay) When it comes to speaker wire anything more than 16 gauge is a waste with ICE installs, so no need to break the bank on expensive pro wires. Without further delay let's get into those doors. This video will take you through the whole process. *Top tip Use the BluTak trick on the screw under the door handle, it's very easy to lose. This video didn't cover a major part of this install, running the new wires into the door, luckily for us another member has already done the hard work for us. Massive Kudos to iKarus for this guide, please thank them There are a couple of things I should have mentioned but I've left till now, I'm intending to fit the Amplifier in the storage area behind the passenger seat, with the 3 RCA cables running down the centre console, keeping these wires away from the speaker cables is important because you can get interference if next to each other. To avoid this the door speakers will be wired under the sills and run to the Amp separately. I'll post how to do this in the next part, where we look into getting access to those rear speakers and remove a load of plastic trim.
  17. Your welcome, I've spent the last few days researching and it felt a shame not to pass on that information, it's sort of a thank you for all the help I've received from members of this forum.
  18. If your reading this you've most likely realised that upgrading the head unit isn't enough, your still left with those tired thrashed 16 year speakers farting their way through your favorite basslines. Prepare yourself, because from here on in it's not good news. Essentially we're at the impedance crossroads, 2 Ohms or 4 Ohms? What's the difference? How will it affect this install? 2 Ohm are slightly louder, slightly more bass but are more expensive and have lower sound quality. 4 Ohms are about 2.5db quieter at the same wattage, less powerful but better defined bass, most common speaker type and have best over all sound quality. *Never mix 2 & 4 Ohms equipment, the amplifier will overheat, at best it'll shutdown, at worst it'll burn your car out* With this upgrade the 2 or 4 Ohms question is especially important because the entire factory Bose system is 2 Ohm's both amplifiers and speakers. So say we try the 2 Ohm route, you can swap out the factory speakers for new ones and you might get slightly louder sound, it wouldn't be a huge step up for what you have now either, but it is the easiest way to upgrade a Zed. If you go for this method then all power to you but is ease really more important than sound clarity? As you may have guessed, I've decided to go with 4 Ohms and well, it didn't take long to realise how big a job it's going to be. As I said you can't mix Ohms so everything has to be 4 Ohms, you can't use any part from the Bose set up including the wires, yes your going to have to take it out and rewire the entire system. That means running power from the battery through the car to a amplifier, a head unit with 3 (Front/Rear/Sub) RCA phono ports, cables running through the centre console, 5 channel amplifier, wiring to the door speakers and hardest of all, what to do about the subwoofer? For inspiration I found this video of a professional install I'd like to say my build will be identical to this one but come on, I'm not taking the car apart to this extreme but I do think it's possible to do a similar job without a full strip down. I also wanted to show how much deadening materiel the professionals use, after using some on my last build I can't recommend the stuff highly enough, especially if your after clear and punchy sound.
  19. The Zed is a great car but it's not perfect and after the newness wears off, there are those little things that begin to annoy you, for me the Bose sound system was quite near the top of the list. I'm sure it was great at the time but 16 years later it's almost stone age technology, I'd long forgotten about CD skip in these digital times, didn't enjoy the reunion so it had to go. So if you'd like to add Bluetooth, USB and hands free calls to your motor your going to need a new head unit. I am going to go through the entire process of replacing the entire system but I'll start with the easiest part, replacing the head unit. This is the only part that can be swapped out with minimum fuss and no compatibility issues, you can use either double din or single din with a spacer. This video shows how to open up the centre console allowing for access to the head unit, not a fan of the guys making the video but I'll put it this way, seeing them manage to do it gave me the confidence it's easy enough. Top tip* Use a little BluTak on the end of the screwdriver with some of the deeper set screws. You will also need a adapter to connect the head unit loom to the cars factory connectors, those who have steering wheel controls will need to buy one specifically for that purpose; https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/CTSNS016-2-Steering-Wheel-Stalk-Control-Adaptor-Patch-for-Nissan-Navara-06-14/351713654720?epid=5019807184&hash=item51e3c477c0:g:thcAAOSwFV1bBUGw (PLEASE NOTE IMPORTANT INSTALLATION NOTE: BOSE REMOTE TRIGGER WIRE FOR 350Z, Nissan 350Z Remote Wire / Purple With Red Tracer, Vehicles Fitted With BOSE Amplifier Require a Manual Connection To This Wire From Remote Output Wire From Stereo Wiring Harness. This will Trigger The Amp To Turn On When Your New Stereo Turns On.) It's made by a British company called Connect2, I dealt with their technical support before and they are brilliant, helping me with my previous projects. Lastly you will need a fascia plate, the factory stereo is larger than the Din's standard and needs a surround to make them fit, these are cheap enough; https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/CT24NS19-For-A-Nissan-350z-03-05-Car-Stereo-Radio-Double-Din-Fascia-Plate-Panel/252029084467 And it as easy as that, you will end up with quite a lot of wires behind the head unit, so try and space the out harness and connectors out a little, use the height of the space, the first time I did this the centre console developed a squeak due to poor fitting, annoyed the hell out of me till I took it apart again and fixed it. Also the trickiest part of the install for me was AC module, disconnecting and reconnecting that little pain in the arse was really frustrating. Top Tip* Be careful because not only does it control the AC it also controls the dash, dials, fuel lights and warning lights.
  20. As you can tell this isn't the start of the project, so I'm going to bring you up to speed. The Nismo bumper was on the car when I bought it, fairly sure it's a replica, definitely fiberglass and in all honesty it could do with a respray at some point. It also has a strange upwards curve to the bar across the grill, reckon the square plate is to hid this intentionally because it isn't a imported car, I will be swapping back to a shortened standard plate soon. The side skirts I know very little about, bought off ebay second hand and resprayed. I do like the look of them though, they remind me of the skirts on the 370Z. What I do know is that they are moulds stuck onto factory sills, which is why they're not quite flush. Rear spats are the G35 style from Tarmac sports and needed the rear bumper painted when they were fitted. Lastly the exhaust, this is a Maganflow B1 with high flow cats (that have switched on the engine management light so essentially de-cat), resonated cat back. Before it sounded like a fast Nissan but now it has a much lower growl to it when I've got my foot down but still quiet in traffic which is exactly what I wanted. This was also second hand from ebay but cost under £450.
  21. Hi there, welcome to my build thread. I've been the proud owner of a Zed for the last 6 months and despite some odd little issues I'm very happy with my purchase, though there're things I feel could be improved. So I decided to start this thread so you guys and girls can ride shotgun along with me. Hopefully we'll all learn something along the way. Okay, let's get to the good bit; My Zed 05' DE 81K GT Spec/Rays with Tan leather option Gunmetal Grey Manual Bridgestone Portenza S001 F225/R245 Tesco Momentum 99
  22. Solved it, the AC module wasn't connected, plugged that back in and the dash is working again, even the engine management lights back on, never been so glad to see that! Stereo still doesn't work though, ordered a new harness loom because I'd snipped the old one back so they'd take up less room but must have messed up, I cut them back because of all the wires and connecting blocks stuffed behind the head unit which I'm sure is the source of the original squeak I was trying to fix in the first place
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