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MtJavnk

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About MtJavnk

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  1. "Axle back" compared to Invidia's cat back. Believe me when I say there's not many 350Z's around here. Would have to leave the country. I've been through whole youtube. I think there's no videos left 90% of people have Invidia Gemini. So I know what invidia sounds like. That's why I would like to get comparison between Tanabe and Invidia.
  2. I will apologize in advance. Unusual questions may follow. How much louder than stock the exhaust actually is? Is it just different frequencies? Since not many tanabe exhaust around that would be the only way for me to get a feeling about it. I would like to have it a bit louder than stock. Especially in the cabin. I miss the rumble around 1.000-3.000rpm. I used to own Z4 roadster and boy was it enjoyable to drive around with roof down. When you would lift the throttle exhaust would rumble ... And that is what I miss with my 350Z.
  3. I've been all over the internet forums YT videos for weeks trying to find something that would sound similar to Nismo S-Tune exhaust for my 350Z. I narrowed it down to Tanabe Medalin Touring or Invidia Gemini. Both have great build quality, look quite stylish and inncognito. Exhaust note is different. I think Tanabe Touring comes closer to S-Tune in terms of sound similarity. So my question is as follows - is the Tanabe Touring louder or quieter compared to Invidia? Since Tanabe is axle back but in the end costs me almost the same as Invidia I am thinking if it will really make a difference compared to Invidia. I hear Invidia is quite and some say Tanabe Touring is even quieter? Keep in mind I am not planing to go HFC. I am keeping stock cats, just looking for amplified sound of this VQ. I was solid on Invidia (no drone, nice tone INSIDE the car, but going higher RPM exhaust becomes muffled, choked if you will). There's not many clips around but from what I've heard Invidia mutes a bit of VQ V6 sound with it's X-pipe and duals that's why I think keeping stock Y-pipe and going single pipe from Y to back is the way to go. I know it's hard to describe how an exhaust sounds and even videos don't represent their true character I would still be really grateful if you're willing share experience. Mind we don't have many 350Z's around here and I don't think even one car has Tanabe installed.
  4. Oh, I am sorry I haven't replied. Link is good but the photo shows the old exhaust but they state "New and improved". New one is different to the old one. Looking for old one with Weldina tag - PN 20100-RSZ35.
  5. There should be one. Somewhere. New. Forgotten. Just don't know where ... Will also consider a good used example.
  6. As the title says, I am looking for an S-Tune nismo exhaust. Complete exhaust - Y-pipe, middle pipe and rear muffler.
  7. Hey guys, I've been through YouTube and all but still cannot get a feeling around 350Z's sound.Before 350Z I had a Z4 roadster. And that car made really nice sound which you could hear all the time, even just crusising. Now I have 350Z with stock intake and exhaust. One thing I'm missing with 350Z is more sound in the cabin. Mostly down low, up to 3.000rpm. Nissan makes nice sound, but you have to be at least at 3.000rpm. I am kind split between Pop Charger or Invidia Gemini (maybe Ark Grid) exhaust. Anyone here willing to do an on-board (cabin) video o sound with one of these two exhausts and Pop Charger with OEM exhaust? I am not looking for acceleration and WOT videos, simply cruising.
  8. I am no field expert - I know how this rust never stops once it begins. And it usually begins inside-out. That's the worst part. And your car is not bad at all. I think if you do this now and properly you'll be good for many years to come. Just be sure to have a peak underneath few times a year and cover all new paint chips. Actually I am doing some fender chips right as we speak. To get that bubbling rust away there's only one way - metal grinder or thorough sanding down to healthy metal. From there - if there's zero rust spots - you prime it with with zink, primer, 2-3 base coats and 2 clear coats. I don't know if you'll be doing this on your own or not. Rusting i nbetween the panels (where the spot welds are) would show as bubbling usual. Bubbling usually means corrosion is happening under the paint in it's coming out. That's why bubbling is usually just visible tip of the iceberg underneath.
  9. Well I have my OEM GT 18's which I quite like. Going 19's I would go with XXR or Enkei. Thanks though
  10. Well, design of 350Z is flawed. It's the same crap as Japanese cars were using from the 90's. Even in 2008 (though car was designed around 2000) they haven't used plastic splash shields. It is going to be hard to fix rust, once the cancer is present. It will spread in all hard to get spots. Grinding the rust away, to bare metal. Thorough cleaning and zinc primer. It is going to be tuff. And I wonder how long will it hold since dirt, salt and crap managed to get into the tightest areas. Even seams can bi filled with gunk. No way anyone can get in between two layers of metal. Honestly, I was considering cleaning rear seam, drying it and than filling it with some sort of rubbery-like protection. The thing they usually use on cars from the factory. Or even roll the lip upwards and filling it with something. Also, using clear bra on the lip's face is good idea to get the metal protected from rock chips. Especially if you run wide rims/tires. But as mentioned - design is flawed. You cannot protect the rear part where bumper clips to the chassis. That place is unprotected. Other than factory zinc protection. But most of the junk gets trapped there. Then bumper holding bolt starts to rust it then spreads onto sheetmetal and from there on you're basicly F****. I hate it. I really do. When my 2000 Honda Prelude made the first bubble I sold the car. Cause I knew I'll go insane fixing it. Japanese sheet metal just sucks. I've had a 2004 BMW Z4. Not a spec of rust. Car had 130.000km and underneath looked the same or nicer than my Z with 28.000km. Don't get me wrong, also BMW is notorious with rust problems. But lately car manufacturers managed to get it under control. Mostly with different designs, better manufacturing and better sealing. Renault - they make shitbox cars but none of them rust. So one thing Nissan should copy from and they didn't back than.
  11. So I bought a 350Z with 20" rims and front 245 and rear 275 tires and beside that it's even lowered. The thing I don't like is the heavy steering feel and all in all feel of the car. It feels heavy and hard. Like driving a pig. I've had the opportunity to drive a Z on 18" and it's way easier and more comfortable. I am rethinking all this 20" stuff and seriously considering going back to stock 18" and stock height. Or maybe 19". How is your experience with 19's?
  12. Hi, I have two questions regarding 350Z seats. First is the passenger power seat. When I move it forward it moves but not continuously. When you hold the button it goes like moves-stops-moves-stop-moves. It pauses briefly. Switch, el. motor? Second - the leather. I have Burnt Orange seats. I took some leather cleaner (which I succesfully used on my Z4) an tested it on tiny bit of leather. Top layer is a bit damaged and as soon I touched it it turned RED. What the heck? Anyone else experienced that? I'll look into suggested cleaning products, but I don't want to get something expensive that won't work on the seats. Thank you very many
  13. I though about it, but symptoms of failed slave cyl are usually different, right?
  14. Yes, the 350Z is an HR VQ35HR, 05/2008). I am specifically looking for this engine, since it boots out a bit more HP although it has it's own quirks like VTC fails (1.200 EUR per side according to Nissan dealer), oil galley gasket and probably one or two more. Those things await me, but lower the mileage lower the possibility to blow those parts. Well at least theoretically. Mileage. 28.000. Seller is the first owner, owned it for 11 years now. He thinks he owns a gem. Yes the car is nice, but it needs service and a proper one. Front pads are on the last 1/4 of it's life, front rotors could probably go for one more cycle of the pads (just might). Taking this into account I think the car was driven hard. Pretty hard if the clutch is on it's last breaths at 28k kms. I cannot confirm about slippage 'cause I wasn't able to drive the car - the owner did a short test ride and I couldn't hear engine RPM's rising on acceleration. And he has a lead foot. I was only allowed to move the car forward, at that time I noticed the clutch is no good. Or something else within clutch mechanism is off. All the parts are original.
  15. Hi guys, I would need your opinion on resolving one mistery. I am looking to buy a 1st hand Nissan 350Z, 2008. Car is with it's original owner from new. Car has 28.000km on the clock but surprisingly has a worn out clutch. Or does it? Pedal is hard in clutch bite is basicly at the top - on the release. And I am not talking about last 1/4 of the way released. I am talking about last 1/2 of an inch. So you basicly release the clutch all the way and the clutch bites. Can you give me a pointer here, please. Thanks. Is it from hard starts or can it be something else that failed? I am worried since the new clutch cost 2.500 EUR incl. dual mass flywheel and if this really is a bad clutch that should be deducted from asking price which is already high in the first place. I owned a couple of sports cars but NEVER experienced bad clutch at this mileage.

350z-uk.com

370z-uk.com

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