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I thought I'll post some feedback. Thank you, Torqen. I might as well add a bit of a info here which can be valuable to other readers also. You are right, secondary catalytic core is (most probably) dislodged. It might be broken but usually it's the inner core that gets loose and eventually breaks. I wasn't aware this was also apparent on HR models. From reliable source I got the info that even with primary cores only, the car pass MOT inspections. There's no CEL light as O2 sensor is located just after primary cats. Secondary cats were later added just to keep the car EURO4. I've seen a cat from older 350Z and it's like the whole core is just being thrown around in the chamber. When you leave it long enough it turn sideways. So, I considered just throwing the secondary core out, but was advised an empty chamber is not a good idea as it causes turbulent flow of exhaust gasses. Of course it also changes the sound of the car. After market HFC's don't produce sound I would want so I am considering buying a catalytic mat, which is used to damped the vibrations in cats and DPF filters. I'll try and wrap the core into the mat and weld it back together. Hopefully it will keep the cat in place and rattle will go away. Anyone tried this before? I am suprised this happened as the car has original 57.000 kilometers.

I share similar thoughts. Very happy with the exhaust’s sound. It gets even better with driven miles. Pros: -sound -fitment -looks (how you know you succeded in life? You can put your fist in the exhaust!) -Used to be a good price deal cons: -poor coating (after two years, 10-15k km) my exhaust -looks like it’s been through desert of salt) -rear exhaust tips become oval when you tighten them -missing additional hanger on RHS by design -slip-on design at the cats instead of flex pipe I’ve heard ARK bit wasn’t impressed by the sound. A step up would be TDX2. Additionaly they’ve positioned the merge of exhaust closer to the engine, proving on dyno it’s better for performance. LH and RH bank pioes should be joined as soon as possible.

Hi there. after doing some research I’ll disclose information regarding an issue I’ve been following on my car 350Z HR with OEM Nissan cats and Invidia Gemini (version 1), with 57.000km now (mileage is correct). Grab a cold drink, it’s going to be a longer post. After I’ve put Gemini on my car, I started noticing a light rattle on LH side of the car. At first it was so subtle I convinced myself it’s the infamous 350Z transmission. But later on the noise became more and more apparent and louder. Eventually I went under the car, hit the Cat with my hand and it was rattling. While figuring out what to do, the miles were going by. With miles the RH side cat started to rattle. Now it is a friggin’ silverware simphony going on. And it’s the cats. It’s not the transmission, it’s not the heatshields. Now, Invidia’s Gemini was first released with flex pipe at the flange that connects to the cat. But as this flex pipes were constantly tearing and failing, they later decided they will go the slip-on route, like you can see on motorcycles and their exhausts. With doing so, the whole exhaust doesn’t have s single flex point, stress release point. The only movement is the movement let by rubber hangers. So basicly all the vibrations are translated to the cat. This leads me to believe (asumption), the exhaust is bringing a lot of pressure, vibration and stress to the cats, which are attached solidly, on mounts, twisting and pulling the car, making the lower part of the cat’s core detach and rattle. Resulting in a failing cat eventually, presenting core shatter damage risk to the rest of the car’s core, whole lenght of exhaust and maybe even the engine. at this point I would like to ask users around here if they have had this or similar issue with nissan’s oem cats? And what exhausts were installed? I am NOT amused by having these cats rattling as I know it’s another PITA job to do, not to mention the incredible expense going OEM route (2.500 bucks for a pair of new ones) or Berk (and other) alternatives which make the engine sound even louder, raspy and essentially destroying the nice VQ sound. I will email Invidia regarding this matter to get an answer from them also, but I believe (my opinion based on ibservations) they are well aware of the decision they’ve made and technical shortcomings. They have solved the RMA cases for flex pipes. And for sure they’re not paying for new cats to the customers also …

Hi there, I am in the same boat with replacing discs and pads. Though discs are only half-way through and I can feel light pulsating. Disc is also unevenly worn - tiny bit thicker by the hub and thinner at the edge. So, once skimmed they might be at a minimum. I already have OEM Brembo pads (previous owner pass them to me) so I am looking for a disc. Don't want to go spending for pads, so I am looking at OEM Brembo Extra Line. Since this combo goes together as factory oem, How would DBA T2 go together with OEM Brembo pads? Not doing any trackdays, a spirited drive here or there only.

Hi there. can anyone provide me with info if shallow depth 7” double din unit would 350Z 07 upper cubby box OR where OEM sat nav box? To my knowledge standard size double din unit would be too deep to fit. But I found some units that are shallow and was wondering if those would fit. thanks

"Axle back" compared to Invidia's cat back. Believe me when I say there's not many 350Z's around here. Would have to leave the country. I've been through whole youtube. I think there's no videos left 90% of people have Invidia Gemini. So I know what invidia sounds like. That's why I would like to get comparison between Tanabe and Invidia.

I will apologize in advance. Unusual questions may follow. How much louder than stock the exhaust actually is? Is it just different frequencies? Since not many tanabe exhaust around that would be the only way for me to get a feeling about it. I would like to have it a bit louder than stock. Especially in the cabin. I miss the rumble around 1.000-3.000rpm. I used to own Z4 roadster and boy was it enjoyable to drive around with roof down. When you would lift the throttle exhaust would rumble ... And that is what I miss with my 350Z.

I've been all over the internet forums YT videos for weeks trying to find something that would sound similar to Nismo S-Tune exhaust for my 350Z. I narrowed it down to Tanabe Medalin Touring or Invidia Gemini. Both have great build quality, look quite stylish and inncognito. Exhaust note is different. I think Tanabe Touring comes closer to S-Tune in terms of sound similarity. So my question is as follows - is the Tanabe Touring louder or quieter compared to Invidia? Since Tanabe is axle back but in the end costs me almost the same as Invidia I am thinking if it will really make a difference compared to Invidia. I hear Invidia is quite and some say Tanabe Touring is even quieter? Keep in mind I am not planing to go HFC. I am keeping stock cats, just looking for amplified sound of this VQ. I was solid on Invidia (no drone, nice tone INSIDE the car, but going higher RPM exhaust becomes muffled, choked if you will). There's not many clips around but from what I've heard Invidia mutes a bit of VQ V6 sound with it's X-pipe and duals that's why I think keeping stock Y-pipe and going single pipe from Y to back is the way to go. I know it's hard to describe how an exhaust sounds and even videos don't represent their true character I would still be really grateful if you're willing share experience. Mind we don't have many 350Z's around here and I don't think even one car has Tanabe installed.

Oh, I am sorry I haven't replied. Link is good but the photo shows the old exhaust but they state "New and improved". New one is different to the old one. Looking for old one with Weldina tag - PN 20100-RSZ35.

There should be one. Somewhere. New. Forgotten. Just don't know where ... Will also consider a good used example.

As the title says, I am looking for an S-Tune nismo exhaust. Complete exhaust - Y-pipe, middle pipe and rear muffler.

Hey guys, I've been through YouTube and all but still cannot get a feeling around 350Z's sound.Before 350Z I had a Z4 roadster. And that car made really nice sound which you could hear all the time, even just crusising. Now I have 350Z with stock intake and exhaust. One thing I'm missing with 350Z is more sound in the cabin. Mostly down low, up to 3.000rpm. Nissan makes nice sound, but you have to be at least at 3.000rpm. I am kind split between Pop Charger or Invidia Gemini (maybe Ark Grid) exhaust. Anyone here willing to do an on-board (cabin) video o sound with one of these two exhausts and Pop Charger with OEM exhaust? I am not looking for acceleration and WOT videos, simply cruising.

I am no field expert - I know how this rust never stops once it begins. And it usually begins inside-out. That's the worst part. And your car is not bad at all. I think if you do this now and properly you'll be good for many years to come. Just be sure to have a peak underneath few times a year and cover all new paint chips. Actually I am doing some fender chips right as we speak. To get that bubbling rust away there's only one way - metal grinder or thorough sanding down to healthy metal. From there - if there's zero rust spots - you prime it with with zink, primer, 2-3 base coats and 2 clear coats. I don't know if you'll be doing this on your own or not. Rusting i nbetween the panels (where the spot welds are) would show as bubbling usual. Bubbling usually means corrosion is happening under the paint in it's coming out. That's why bubbling is usually just visible tip of the iceberg underneath.

Well I have my OEM GT 18's which I quite like. Going 19's I would go with XXR or Enkei. Thanks though

Well, design of 350Z is flawed. It's the same crap as Japanese cars were using from the 90's. Even in 2008 (though car was designed around 2000) they haven't used plastic splash shields. It is going to be hard to fix rust, once the cancer is present. It will spread in all hard to get spots. Grinding the rust away, to bare metal. Thorough cleaning and zinc primer. It is going to be tuff. And I wonder how long will it hold since dirt, salt and crap managed to get into the tightest areas. Even seams can bi filled with gunk. No way anyone can get in between two layers of metal. Honestly, I was considering cleaning rear seam, drying it and than filling it with some sort of rubbery-like protection. The thing they usually use on cars from the factory. Or even roll the lip upwards and filling it with something. Also, using clear bra on the lip's face is good idea to get the metal protected from rock chips. Especially if you run wide rims/tires. But as mentioned - design is flawed. You cannot protect the rear part where bumper clips to the chassis. That place is unprotected. Other than factory zinc protection. But most of the junk gets trapped there. Then bumper holding bolt starts to rust it then spreads onto sheetmetal and from there on you're basicly F****. I hate it. I really do. When my 2000 Honda Prelude made the first bubble I sold the car. Cause I knew I'll go insane fixing it. Japanese sheet metal just sucks. I've had a 2004 BMW Z4. Not a spec of rust. Car had 130.000km and underneath looked the same or nicer than my Z with 28.000km. Don't get me wrong, also BMW is notorious with rust problems. But lately car manufacturers managed to get it under control. Mostly with different designs, better manufacturing and better sealing. Renault - they make shitbox cars but none of them rust. So one thing Nissan should copy from and they didn't back than.