OnlyAfro

53 minutes ago, ZMANALEX said:

You are overthinking this.

 

Why not just pull the in inline fuse on the purple wire and just drive the car and with the passage of time you may work out what possibly is not working.

That was my intention, I didn't reinstall the fuse. However with this lockdown I've got lots of time to ponder and not much chance for driving. 

1 hour ago, ZMANALEX said:

Common practice for a temporary fix to bridge  a couple of fuse points if one of them is not getting a feed.

Went to compare behaviour with the fuse in and out, and got the same result:

Ignition acc - power sockets live, instrument cluster and triple gauges off

ignition on - power sockets, instrument cluster and triple gauges live

Which raises 3 questions:

1) Have I misinterpreted the diagrams (it's from the NA service manual, dunno if there's a difference to UK)

2) If behaviour is the same, is the wire even doing anything?

3) If I'm reading it correctly, the service manual implies the instrument cluster / triple gauges should come on with ignition acc, but that doesn't sound right, and it doesn't happen.

@ZMANALEX, any insight?

In the interior fuse box (driver's footwell), I have a purple wire with a 15A fuse in the middle that looks very much non-OEM and I can't work out why it's there or what's it's doing.

I've been through the service manual, and although I'm still non the wiser, I at least know what it's connecting.

There's a red wire coming from 11A and a blue wire from 3B. This purple wire is spliced between the 2.

So mine looks like this:

P/SCKT refers to the 12V power sockets

A/C refers to the air conditioner

METER refers to the speedometer, tachometer, temp. and fuel gauges

3METER refer to the triple meter (battery volts, oil pressure, speedo/clock/etc)

From the above diagrams, it looks like 11A and 3B are active at the same time and are both fused at 15A, so I don't see what splicing between them achieves.

Here's some actual pics for reference too in case I've messed up:

Thanks in advance.

9 hours ago, Paul K said:

Make sure the top nut is fully tightened.......when i did my springs, i thought i had got the nut fully done up, but it wasn't and gave a random clunk at low speeds, almost exactly like you are describing...

On the strut? Not touched it, but I'll check when I get a chance.

Problem seems to have gotten worse, but I did a bit more investigation...

Jacked the car up so the FR wheel was just off the floor and put a pry bar underneath the tyre to apply upwards force. Felt the arms for movement, but everything seemed fine except a very slight movement in the upper arm ball joint.

However, rocking the pry bar left / right instead of up / down you can feel the knock much more in the upper arm ball joint. 
Edit: Can feel the same knock in the balljoint on the other side, so guess it rules that out.

Also noticed a knock when stationary, with the wheels on the floor, when rocking the steering wheel left / right, which is worse with the engine off. Getting underneath while someone is rocking the steering wheel there is a severe knock heard and felt in the tie rods / rack on both sides of the car, but I'm not sure if this is normal? Think it might be a red herring though as the knock is never heard when the left wheel hits bumps, only the right wheel or when tapping the brake lightly, unless it's the inner tie rod on the RHS?

15 minutes ago, ZMANALEX said:

There are 2 x types of transverse arms and you will probably find that you have fitted the wrong one.

The difference being is that the recess for the ball joint nut has more of a recess and you require a different seating cone.

Usually the eBay transverse arms are not compatible with the OEM seating cones.

Here's my old transverse link. Any measurements that can be taken with verniers or is it obvious from to the eye?

1 minute ago, ZMANALEX said:

Did you replace the compression rod and also the lower lateral arm (track control arm)?

Replaced compression rods (red) and transverse links (blue), both left and right side.

Bushes were worn in both, but not faulty or knocking. Old transverse link is still in acceptable condition, but old compression rod was destroyed (ballpoint thread bashed up and bush ripped out).

7 minutes ago, ZMANALEX said:

Wrong size of seating cone fitted to new lateral arm.

 

Or suspension upright lower ball joint failure, however I would be firstly looking at the seating cone.

Seating cone is the same.

I still have the old arm, so I can swap it back in to test.

Any reason you suggest lateral arm over compression arm?

1 minute ago, davey_83 said:

Banana arm 

Just been replaced.

I've got a knock coming from the front right.

Description:

• Only present at low speeds (<30mph) and worse the slower you go
• Only occurs with sudden jolts (hitting speed bumps / large pot holes / driving over cat's eyes)
• Single clunk when it happens (per bump)
• No steering judder or jerking
• Braking whilst hitting the bump seems to prevent the knock

Factors:

• Front lower lateral and compression arms have just been replaced (with ebay arms) on left and right and the knock was present immediately after, but the left side is fine
• Replacing these arms involved disconnection of the drop links, shocks, tie rods and cross brace
• The nut on the right side compression arm was seized and had to be chiselled off violently, sending shocks through the rest of the suspension that could have caused something else to fatigue(?)
• Car and suspension (other than lower arms and tie rods) are 12 years old

Step taken:

• Nuts checked several times  to ensure they are torqued
• Pry bar used on components to check for play to no avail (not really managed to check shock with it though)
• Car bounced (hung off the front ARB and yanked repeatedly with entire body weight), but didn't produce a knock

Thoughts

• Perhaps a worn shock or top mount, not sure if that would only knock at low speed though?
• Ball joint could be faulty in new compression arm that was installed, but can't recreate with pry bar
• Drop links are often suggested, but they usually chatter constantly rather than producing a single large clunk (will try drive with them disconnected at the weekend to rule them out though)
• Perhaps brake related, but no idea what it would be

Any suggestions?

Thanks

What would postage be on the plenum (assuming it fits a rev up)?

https://www.facebook.com/donutmedia/playlist/1575581095910287/

Donut Media are modifying 2x Zeds. Unfortunately only seems to be on Facebook at the moment.

"HiLow is where we compare high end-expensive parts to really cheap ones to see if there really is a performance difference."

Android tends not to work unless using an early version.

Just connected the pipes to the wrong pumps. Pulling will now activate the rear.

2 hours ago, Umster said:

I don't know how long it took you, but my god how annoying was it to colour in the Hankook? The ventus s1 letters are so easy in comparison. I have the exact same tyres and couldn't be arsed doing it again when I changed the tyres over. 

More hours than I'd like to admit. If you'd asked me while doing it, I'd have said never again, but considering how well it's held up, I dunno any more.

Yeh, the Hankook was a right ballache cos it was just recessed instead of having the lip border. I got bored of trying to be neat, splodged it something like and scraped off the mess.

Did mine in January, quite fond of em and seem to be holding up alright considering it's been 6 months 

Maybe 35-40? You're best off doing a chalk test to find out.

50psi is the maximum safe rating for the tyre, not what is recommended for the vehicle. Drop em back down.

G Wag takes the all time prize I believe, but as mentioned it's no longer current.

911 hasn't changed since '64 as far as I can tell. 

Anyone heading in from Leam / Warwick wanna convoy?

5 hours ago, hotrain69 said:

Apologies to revive an old thread but only just seen it and had a stupid question. Really impressed by how much bigger the boot looks. But looks like it’s 370z.

 

So question is, can a similar result be achieved on the 350z? Didn’t think there was that much space within the spare wheel compartment bit might be wrong. Looked like it went very much deeper in the 370z!

 

Cheers

350 will do the same if you remove the spare wheel and the side foam bits (inc tools + amp)

AC will turn on when you set it to blow at the windscreen (all the way to the right) - recirc should also engage.

Mine were £180 for 4, powdercoated gloss black (inc removal / fitting).

£50 per corner is pretty common, but prices fluctuate quite a lot depending on location and quality.