nub

KyleR, no. The wheel figure is not what we look at. He said it made 309bhp,so that's nearly 20bhp lower than claimed stock, depending on how accurate that dyno is. But I'd be surprised if the dyno itself is responsible for that much decline. If that's had a remap then its even worse.

Mine made 311 bhp totally stock

 

Would ha e thought it might get a bit better when it loosens up , only on 9k

Then we have this one which is again, around 17bhp lower than claimed. I don't have experience with these dynos, the most accurate rollers IMO are tdi north, and they map our cars too. My supercharged type R made 341 BHP there, I might ask him (Paul West) what figures he tends to get. But he maps mostly Hondas.

It's not fast enough standard partly because it doesn't even make the claimed power. But I have come from a supercharged type R to an Uprev 370z, both the same BHP but the type R is much faster. I don't think it's so much of an issue in 09, but right now, the 328bhp in the heavy car is a bit slow and behind. Even a genuine 350-360 bhp would have made a big difference if possible within tolerances of the engine/emission etc. I don't mind the road noise but I notice it easily. And I have the GT Edition which I'm told has rectified this slightly? Stock exhaust too quiet. Gearchanges are good because of synchro rev but reverse engagement isn't natural for me (pressing down). The type R gearbox was much smoother but I still prefer the 370z overall.

Perhaps the front end is too basic, 2015 nismo got it right.

 

 

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What do you mean it doesn't make claimed power? This isn't something i've heard before, although I don't frequent the '70 section too often, but the '50 was claimed for being one of the few cars that actually meet or exceed the claimed bhp.

 

Also, your Type R was faster because it weighed quite a bit less, plus oodles of torque from the S/C

I've only been on here a short while but it quickly became evident that the 370z, and maybe 350s don't make their claimed power from stock. And I don't mean just 2-3 BHP but in excess of 10bhp. All the tuners will tell you the same and it just means the car isn't as powerful as it should be.

My supercharged FN2 is faster mainly because it's over 150kg-200kg lighter but also the shorter gearing means at the same speed my Type R was at around 1000rpm higher and thus making more power. Throttle response and gear changing was also superior, it climbs through the RPMs to the 8600 redline faster than the 370z. However, even with the supercharger my type R makes less peak torque and less lower down than a stock 370z. Even considering my 370z has Fast intentions CBE and HFC Abbey uprev remapped to 340-345 bhp, the charges civic was still faster. At 4000rpm or so, I can tell the 370z has more torque and is pulling harder, but because of the above factors, it is still slower than my civic throughout the revs driving hard as the civic dyno was so linear and free revving.

That said I totally enjoy the 370z overall it's a far superior car except for the performance and it still pulls very well comparitively speaking. I am so glad I bought mine already mapped with extra performance or I think I'd have been very disappointed with a stock car. it simply would have been so much slower than my civic which at 340bhp, on paper should only be 12 bhp quicker than a stock 370Z (plus heavier and the other factors mentioned). The BHP/tonne would have been far less and I would have been very disappointed.

To others not coming from quicker cars they may not have noticed and might have been more than satisfied with the power, even being significantly less than the claimed. Its not the only car to make less than claimed out of the factory, the old Focus RS were well known to be sometimes 30bhp down on power! The Honda S2000 was another, yet the type RS often make 10-15bhp more than claimed. Personally I think manufacturers making sports cars that are undeniably making significantly less than claimed, should be held accountable if the margin is too great. With competition so tight these days we do make our decisions based on performance, 0-60 and BHP etc so it's not fair that we should be misled. Within reason of course, I don't think 5bhp is s big deal or should do of course know that all dynos are different, yet the claims I've been making are well known, backed up by hundreds of owners and tuners. Usually the community knows which dynos tend to over read or under read, it's not just guesswork. It's a fact that certain cars do not make near their claimed power.

Moving on, to the the guy saying it feels slow at 50mph in 6th, I do somewhat agree with you, and as said my Z is remapped to 340-345bhp with CBE & HFC installed by the previous owner. This combo is s bit loud for me and I get another remap with the exhaust parts I want, and a Stillen G3 I hope to gain 15-20bhp more with an ECUtek remap and this will improve midrange even further.

I used to have an NA type R, 2.0ltr 245bhp. Compared to this, the 3.7 V6 makes loads of low down torque. But some modern diesels on the road & motorway are making more torque than us from as low as 1500rpm, even if they are ultimately slower than us. In the situation you described we could easily be out accelerated if we choose not to down shift. So I think if you want the car to be quicker then you need to change your driving style a bit. In my old NA type R you had to keep it in the powerband all the time to get anyway, this means over 5k rpm, and even then it wasn't great.

So I would suggest if you're in 6th at 50mph, I personally think this is just about ok if you're not in a rush, but if you went to 40mph in 6th then you're labouring the engine. If you wanted to accelerate faster from 50mph then I'd suggest down shifting to 5th to get a bit more power, of even 4th to bring the revs even higher. Drop to 3rd and you're really going to shift, and this is a bit OTT if you're just trying to cruise and not race anyone but you see my point. The car still makes more power at higher rpm so unless you're trying to drive at maximum mpg returns it might be worth down shifting, which I find very smooth and entertaining with synchro rev! For me there's nothing more fun than going from 6th to 3rd and accelerating up to 100mph or so. That does not match the pace of my type R but I'm hoping after some more upgrades and the ECUtek remap it will. In this weather 1st gear launches are not going to work unless it's absolutely dry and you can get heat on the tyres.

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Haha. Yes one day I'll show up with those exact mods demanding 333whp

It's more the sound than anything. The ART decat pipes combined with the motordyne shockwave sound fantastic. I did my research before I bought the car and this is what I've determined. ARK GRIP probably sounds similar only quieter than the shockwave

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No worries Mark, I hope I'm not getting you annoyed it's just I had my own ideas and this dude has the exact mods I plan to get. I guess I'll be booking my car in with you guys sometime next year and then we will see who is right

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So I'm thinking about supercharging my 370z but I just can't decide on if it will be a good idea or not.

 

I currently have bolts ons which are motordyne exhaust, art pipes, stillen gen 3 and ECUTEK which made 333 WHP and 283 lbft at the hubs.

 

What sort of power are people seeing with the Stillen SC? Will it be a big difference compare to what I currently have? Comparing SC graphs to mine and their doesn't seem to be much difference down low, only once you get past 5k.

 

Have been on a few us forums and some say its not worth it while others say it completely changed the car...

You've got the exact mod combo I want, Abbey keeps telling me anywhere near 333whp is impossible NA. Do you have any exhaust videos and dyno chart or a build thread as I'm very interested in everything you've done.

As for your question, I'm guessing it's a centrifugal type which makes power as the Rpms climb unlike roots and twinscroll hence why it won't make loads of power or torque low down below 5000rpm as you say. I've only owned a 370z 5 days or so, so I'm unsure of all the superchargers available but I've had a roots charger on a FWD type R. Whilst making loads of power/torque at low rpm is great in the higher gears, say 4th onwards. In the lower gears having too much power will make at least the first 3 gears unusable (without boost limiting) as you'll be making more power/torque than the wheels can handle in terms of traction. You don't want to be pulling loads at 2000rpm in all the gears it you'll have to short shift your way up to avoid simply spinning the wheels all the time. The roots charger I had made good power and torque from 3000 onwards yet it was on the limits of traction in 2nd gear for that car/setup. As I say I've only owned this car a few days but I would guess sticking a roots or twinscroll on a 370z at high boost might give the RWD big traction issues. Even the centrifugal tyke should give some additional power and midrange and the 370z is not slow compared to my old 2.0 ltr NA 200bhp type R believe me, let alone your 333whp which you must have got used to by now! However the difference between your NA performance and a 500bhp 370z is that whether or not it has power below 5000rpm, when driven through the gears up to the redline you have super car performance, whereas right now you have quite a fast car BHP/tonne wise but not suoercar fast.

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Thanks Mark, I know coming from the NA K20 which I eventually supercharged. Our best long tube CAI is made of silicone and makes a good 10-15 BHP over stock. But it's revving up to 8600k, I guess the engines and intakes are different. However I do expect decats to be a fair bit less restrictive than double high flow cats. I would ask what your expectations are there but I'm guessing you're reluctant to say . I personally think 10bhp surely, maybe not many map with decats.

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Ooosh

 

I paid £231 for the Z for me and missus..

 

Fully comp...11 yrs NCB, no points, decent postcode..

47, so yea....OAP

I'm not saying you're an OAP mate but just because it's cheap for you, I would not say it's necessarily cheap for everyone! I'm 29 which I figured was old enough to stop being considered a very high risk to certain cars, I did not expect £800 to be the very cheapest I could find, my post code is good too. I don't believe the 370z is in a low insurance group, they know it's RWD and a young mans dream car so they try to prevent youngsters owning them. Granted, low 20s is high risk but I figured mid 20s to 30 might be a bit better. There must be plenty younger than me on here. However I hope, after my 1 years experience with this car the premiums will come down. My excess is very high too

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Also insurance is not necessarily cheap. I am 29 years old and some insurers would not even in sure me because it's RWD. Others required me to have been driving the car for at least 1 year first.

I paid around £430 for a 340bhp civic type R but for the 370z, slightly newer and higher value it was around double this minimum over £800. I'm 29 and a sports car is considered high risk for be with 8 years NCB. Ok it's not maximum but seriously, must we be OAPs to insure and enjoy a sports car lol ?

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It's not fast enough standard partly because it doesn't even make the claimed power. But I have come from a supercharged type R to an Uprev 370z, both the same BHP but the type R is much faster. I don't think it's so much of an issue in 09, but right now, the 328bhp in the heavy car is a bit slow and behind. Even a genuine 350-360 bhp would have made a big difference if possible within tolerances of the engine/emission etc. I don't mind the road noise but I notice it easily. And I have the GT Edition which I'm told has rectified this slightly? Stock exhaust too quiet. Gearchanges are good because of synchro rev but reverse engagement isn't natural for me (pressing down). The type R gearbox was much smoother but I still prefer the 370z overall.

Perhaps the front end is too basic, 2015 nismo got it right.

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Btw what do people think of my dyno chart. BHP seems fine and linear but Should the torque not be smoother and a bit flatter ?

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The Stillen with the difference diameter pipework will help the rich AFR the early cars due to changing the Air Flow meter voltages but this also adds ignition timing which can cause issues

 

We see huge heat soak with the Stillens short/long tube CAI which we don't like we find the stock airbox's work the best with drop in filters, the Stillen will give a gain at the top end but not enough to offset the heat soak issues.

 

Do they give the gains I have never seen gains as big as this but you do see a gain but for the cost/labour costs I don't feel it is worth the money

I'd that the short stillen you're referring to or are you saying the Gen 3 also suffers heatsoak?

Obviously the potential gains on a performance car depend on how effective the stock induction system is.

On my old type R EP3 the best enclosed aftermarket system takes a cold feed from outside the top of the bonnet and with a larger diameter intake pipe (for increased air flow/volume and insulating that cold air from the heat of the engine bay. The concept is quite simple and that's on a 2.0 4 cylinder NA engine it is proven to give 10bhp or more alone on the engine. And I mean proven hundreds of times and the gains have been acknowledged and accepted years ago. So on this more powerful engine is there no induction system that can provide similar gains ?

I know any short open come style will gain top end but suffer heatsoak, but the Gen 3 doesn't appear to be in such a position and when I saw it's design and claims I believed them. So are you saying the Gen 3 is also not really worth the money ?

Are there any inductions kits, that like the exhausts where the proof of gains has been established and it's not just a controversial opinion?

Bring more, colder and subsequently denser air in the engine and there should be gains. 10-20bhp does not seem unrealistic to me, unless of course the OEM system is already maxed out in this regard!

I hope you're wrong because my car made 304whp with CBE, stock intake and high flow cats. So in my opinion, the addition of a stillen Gen 3 plus a decat should be worth at least 20bhp. On our Hondas even the best 200 cell high flow cat would lose at least 10bhp compared to a decat/test pipe. and the 370z has two cats instead of the Hondas -! The fact that type Rs Rev to 8600rpm may be why they respond so well to CAIs

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^^ based on these pics I have made up my mind that flat black is what I want to go for. If I hadn't been told I wouldn't even realise they were shopped.

I've already thanked you but thanks once again for saving me lots of time !

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Can anyone tell me where else is there s market for 2nd hand 370z parts? I've joined the FB groups busy many of them are in the US. I don't see much on eBay either

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Thanks, yeah I think spacers and refurb the wheels fiat black is the first thing I will do. It's hard to be patient, I wish I could do it all at once and buy the exhausts parts I need but I just need to save money for a few months !

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Approx how many hours labour would it be to fit these ?

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Strudel your shops have been very useful and I'm pretty much decided on flat black. Do you have this picture without it being cropped ?

So I've had it 3 whole days and really love it but I'm impatient to starts getting it how i want it.

Even with my new 370z being 304whp (supposedly 340-345bhp) @ Abbey motorsport, my FN2 was still noticeably quicker and the extra torque on paper is negated by about 200KGs. Gearbox is close ratio and positive enough but no match for the FN2 slick changes. In other ways though it's a massive upgrade and just in another league, mods aside these are not in the same price bracket anyway. I appreciate the 370z because it looks and sounds good above all else. I think a CW fully mugen'd FN2 is one of the best looking cars on the road, but underneath it is a Honda Civic.

As for mods I will hope to get it to around 360bhp with ECUtek and adding stillen G3 andART decats. As I've stated I've already determined what I feel the best exhaust combo is to make it sound epic. So I'll be swapping mine eventually when i see bits pop up.

The plan one will be 2016 nismo bumpers and refurb the Rays flat black as soon as I can get more spare cash. I think lowering would make it look sportier too. And I know spacers are popular. Waiting for a dry day to try a 1st gear launch. It may be too cold though to get tyres up to temp.

Aside from suspension, alloy colour and the side decal what other revisions were made on the manual GT edition ?

https://vimeo.com/195895210

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Bloody hell, I know photoshopping is s common thing but damn you're good and I didn't notice your first one before I posted. Can you PM me your Facebook info if you don't mind?

 

Can do, just don't go looking for my nudes

Thank you. I've found you but it's ok you don't need to message me back.

Of the last two images you posted, the last one; was it your version of flat/matts black?

Because it's the one I prefer and looks like the Rays flat brack I know. The one before is similar but lighter.

Could you just do one more and shop the wheels flat black on this following photo ? This was taken when it's not very bright but where's its sunny next I will try get a better photo from similar position and be very cheeky and ask you to do the same if you don't mind because it will give me 95% confidence in whether to refurb them or not.

Thanks buddy 😀ðŸ‘ðŸ»

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Some with matte black rays too:

Bloody hell, I know photoshopping is s common thing but damn you're good and I didn't notice your first one before I posted. Can you PM me your Facebook info if you don't mind?

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The OEM Rays are ok but I would prefer them in flat black, but even then I feel other spoke designs may look more effective on this car.

Could just dip your rays matte black? See if you like it.

 

(Or I can probs photoshop you some matte black Volk CE28Ns if you like).

Yeah can you photoshop some matte black ? I think it might be hard to actually photoshop Matts black as it would look in natural light but I would love it if you did give it a try! The Rotas are matte/flat black and I think they look awesome. Also my Rays gram lights TA on my FN2 were my favourite and made me realise his i preferred flat black to gloss. I don't have any good pics you could use, also I'm seeing how putting rotas on there in place of JDM forged alloys would be controversial but they're good value and look great to me.

I don't know if any of my pics would be useful to shop but try if you like I will try the online Rota wheel editor thing too. My aim is to get the car looking more aggressive, as I did wth my FN2. Tints helped a lot too and lowering springs (not an option right now)

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The fast intentions setup I have sounds pretty damned good, better than any other car I've had. But the 18" version would have been nicer and quieter. And of course my aim is Motordyne ART pipes and shockwave exhaust or Ark GRIP because that would be a proper finely tuned sound that I wouldn't mind revving all day.

Of course with the iPhone mic it sounds poor anyway

https://vimeo.com/195714225

The OEM Rays are ok but I would prefer them in flat black, but even then I feel other spoke designs may look more effective on this car. My favourite rays were volk ce28ns, not sure they'd suit this even if I were willing to buy them. It's nice to know they're forged but otherwise arguably irrelevant, some cast rotas may be lighter and unless tracking I think it's not essential to be forged. But controversial I know. Someone show me pics of them in matte black on a white 370, spacers might help too. 🤓

My funds aren't great just yet, boosting isn't a chance yet but if I didn't mention yet my plan was to get the 2016 nismo rear bumper and although it already looks/sounds decent Im a show off and appearance might be priority. It's going to depend what becomes available on here 2nd hand as I'd like to ECUtek remap with a stillen G3 one day too. Because although it feels more powerful and brutal at some of the rev range with more torque, ultimately it lacks the all out pace and momentum of my civic which was definitely faster but had a completely linear power curve and I think shorter gears. My 2nd gear in the civic would destroy the 370z i have no, but on the other hand the Z will launch better in 1st.

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Nvm I figured it out !

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Cheers guys. Can I connect my iPod somehow ?

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I said I'd do it, and I did. I sold my supercharged FN2 and picked it up today, a fat ass Nissan 370Z. Immaculate as far as I can tell and 16k miles. I would have settled for a regular one but I was happy to discover that the GT edition has revised suspension among other things. It's not quite got the pace of my Type R, which is superior in a number of ways. Yet this 370z is fundamentally in a different league to the civic and it's only the start of my project. I've researched a bit already and I know the best intake is stillen G3. Once I've got everything I will remap again. I want 260 if that's even possible NA!

It has fast intentions 12" res cat back and high flow cats which eventually I'd like to swap for motordyne ART decat pipe and either motordyne shockwave or ARK GRIP. I figure they're very similar but the latter being quieter Those Helmholtz chamber things are key and if they're the same then the only difference is the ARK has additional silencers.

I'd also like to know the value of my fast intentions cat back and high flow cat. The CBE has carbon silencers which look pretty cool. I'm prefer this setup over standard though. It's been napped at Abbey to 304bhp which I was told is around 340bhp?

Eventually I'd like 2016 nismo bumpers and I really like the rotas in the pic below. I will add more pics when I can obviously, only just hit back tonight and I don't know how to do much on the car yet. I assume the wing mirrors fold in? Bose sounds good but no match for the high end system I had in my civic which may go back on one day. Still great for now though!

The last pics is not my car just the alloys I like! Also love rolled burned tips. If anyone could estimate the value of my exhaust parts I'd appreciate it. I'm sure they're worth less than the ones I desire otherwise I'd happily swap. Other than here and EBay where else can I look for used 370 parts ? And what are the OEM alloys worth approx ?

Thank you 😎😎😎ðŸ‘😎

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Sorry here's the pics

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I'm not sure if these are sold by any UK distributors, or what the popularity and value is in GBP of these I've viewed a 370 with the two products on today and whilst I'm glad it's not standard, it's not the ideal combination I plan to get so I'd like to know the value compared to motordyne shockwave cat back and ART decats pipes which I've determined is the best sounding combo.

I'm referring to 2nd hand values obviously but is one worth more than the other? Apart from the Helmholtz chambers, this HFC seems to be quiet a large straight resonator (see pic) so my guess is that this is one of the quietest options you can buy. Does anyone think a straight swap would to desirable to anyone. The carbon back boxes costan additional $300 too. I'd also consider the ARK GRIP. Are fast intentions quite rare if they're imported ?

I'm asking this as I may buy a 370z next week I've placed s holding deposit but as for the exhausts i want I'd be reluctant in paying fułl price for any exhaust. It's also mapped at abbey. Sorry if my writing Is bad I'm under the influence and struggling to keep my eyes open.

I would appreciate any advice given

Dan

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