GeorgeB

Couple more things here, I'm not even going to put a price on these, offer me cash if you want to, or just take them away!

Bump!

I need rid of this stuff very soon. If you are interested at all please get in touch. A lot of this will be going in the bin very soon unless someone claims it! I'm open to offers on this stuff. Some of it you can have for free, just come and collect it soon - ask about specifics!

Thanks

Bump!

I'm open to offers

Braided hoses, less than 8000 miles to the best of my knowledge.

I've also had a local garage bleed my brakes so I'm sure there's no air in the lines!

What calipers have you got?

I spoke to Jez @ Horsham Dev who said it sounds like knock off, where the rotor isn't running quite true, and pushes the pads back. And in fact I don't experience the problem while the car's stationery, which seems to support the idea.

Not had chance to investigate further yet.

Bump!

Thanks guys,

My conversion on the 213 F - 225 F came out at 100 to 107 C.

Reason I asked was I saw mine hit 110, but that was climbing a mountain at low speed with the car reporting ambient around 35-40 (maybe a false reading but it was definitely well into the 30's). So pretty bad conditions to begin with. Just wanted to know where that was the in the scale of things.

@Tricky-Ricky

I have an aftermarket oil temp, and I was monitoring coolant via OBD.

Good to know I wasn't over the upper limit - even if I was right at it at times. As soon as we could pick up speed and descend the temps came down quickly, so no issues there.

Hi Guys,

Just wondering at what temperature I should start getting worried? Mainly for coolant, but also oil and air intake.

350z running stillen sc,

Thanks

I have a 350z HR Mishimoto Radiator "As New" for sale. When I came to fit it we found out that it doesn't drop in with the Stillen supercharger kit, therefore I've decided to sell it.

Other than attempted fitting the radiator is as new.

£240 plus shipping.

Other side

Comes with these bolts

What's the place you mentioned that the show cars go to?

I'm willing to take the risk on it looking too good, can always wash it with a gritty sponge to sort that out

@JoeSwin did you get any work done in the end? I'm also looking for a body shop near Coventry, would be great to hear who you decided on and how you got on?

Hi Guys,

Still struggling with this one, I've done another bleed my self with an experienced friend. Then when that didn't resolve it I took it to the local garage, made sure they seemed comfortable with the two nipples per caliper. I do think the pedal has changed from my initial description, but still it's not right.

On first push the pedal moves let's say 2 inches before becoming firm (once it's there it feels right), if I press again directly afterwards it's firm right away. Subsequent presses will feel firm until it's not been touched for 30 seconds or so.

I guess the main thing I'd like to understand is could there be anything else causing this problem apart from incorrect bleeding of the system?

e.g.

Does the fact that I have a BBK mean that the master cylinder needs upgrading to match? (I'm not sure if this has been done or not)

Could a problem with the master cylinder (or anything else) cause this behavior?

Thanks

Lol. Nick is trying to go half's with me on a set of spacers so he can pickup a 350 spare!

Lets assume for a minute my car is standard - do I have to put the space saver on the front, or the rear, or can I put it wherever I like?

As I've already got a spare for the 350, just wondering if anyone happens to know what size spacer is required to get it over the front callipers?

Yep, two nipples on the top of the calipers Rich

Yeah that's right, 370 akebono's on a 350.

I get that you keep going till there is no bubbles. But having done that for quite a while I started wondering if there was something else wrong that I'd not considered.

If I'm not mistaken the brakes are paired up diagonally, since it was one pair that seems to continually give the bubbles I wondered if that was significant?

They're 370 akebono's. Bought the car towards the start of this year. Not sure if they where like this when I got it to be honest. Did a track day. At some point after that I started to notice it. But they could have been like that from day one. Assumed that I had cooked the fluid on the track day, but having bled them twice I'm not really sure now.

Would you suggest keep bleeding them? I mean how many times should I do the pedal pump steps before I'm just wasting time and fluid?

Cheers

Yep, 1/4 of a turn max.

On first push my brake pedal moves let's say 2 inches before becoming firm, if I press again directly afterwards, let's say it moves 1 inch, and by the third press it's firm right away, at least, it's how you would expect it to be. Subsequently it will stay that way until about a minute of no braking where I'm back where I started.

I bled the brakes, the pedal was exactly the same afterwards.

Had a look round this forum and found that I'd done them in the wrong order, and used the wrong pedal pump method (I'd opened the bleed nipple and pumped the brake pedal).

So I bled them again, NSR - OSF - OSR - NSF, pump the pedal 4-5 times, open the bleed nipple, allow the pedal to go to the floor and hold down, close the nipple, lift the pedal, repeat. Inner, then outer nipple. At no point did the header tank go below minimum.

OSR and NSF kept giving very fine bubbles, even having repeated the above steps on each caliper 15 times or more.

Pedal is exactly the same as when I started.

Any ideas or suggestions on what to try next? Or the cause of the fine bubbles. I'm not losing brake fluid.

Thanks

I'll be doing a trip round Europe later this year, so calling the other half isn't really an option here!

I thought you couldn't put the space saver on the back? In which case I wouldn't need to worry about putting the 285 on the front. Or have I got it the wrong way around?

Hi,

I've got a 350, with 370 akabono's fitted. If possible I'd like to be able to get the space saver on. Can anyone tell me what sized spacer I'd need to do that? Assuming I can of course!

Also, am I right in thinking that the space saver should never go on the back? i.e. if there is a problem with the back, you put a front on there and the space saver on the front?

Thanks

Sold, could a mod please lock

Thanks guys. Nissan Data Scan III looks like it does the trick. Two sensors for each throttle body, plus two for the accelerator.

Just need to hope I'm logging when the ecu throws that code again!

Hi Folks,

I'm continuing to see the P1239 error code thrown up occasionally, chatting with the folks at h-dev, they agree that it would be worth me trying to log the throttle and accelerator position sensor voltages in the hope that the error gets thrown while I'm logging and we can narrow down what the problem is.

Short of buying the up-rev software and cable for £200, is there any way for me to do this without spending so much cash?

I've got an ELM bluetooth obd reader, but from what I can tell the Torque and DashCommander android apps won't log the info I need. Am I missing something? If not can anyone recommend other android, windows or linux software that would do the trick?

Thanks

George