88 Zed

6 hours ago, Jords said:

I have the bigger version so can't compare it to the smaller one.   The bigger version is a little bit loud to be fair but it isn't on all the time only when it's needed.

 

They will all be fairly loud as it's basically a high powered fan.  Skip toward the end of this video and listen to this:

 

 

That sounds like it’s got some serious extracting power

5 hours ago, veeg33 said:

Was thinking a few (2 or 3 radiator fans) in a custom made wooden box and will need an adaptor to convert 240v to 12v .....Output is connected to one of these (https://www.cveshop.co.uk/cveshophome/cat_825205-Aluminium-Fire-Rated-Flex.html) then input could be something like a vacuum hose (might need to find something high temp). I won't expect this to be very efficient but if the exhaust is connected to a hose, most of the exhaust fumes will be extracted out?

Good idea, radiator fans might be a bit too big tho, it needs to be portable and easy to move into position otherwise my colleges will stop using it haha.

I just don’t understand why they are £1500 when they are basically a fan and some ducting! Am I missing something?

4 minutes ago, Jords said:

I use a bigger version of this in my garage, and it's first purpose is for when we are carrying out dusty work on site...  

 

It may not be ideal to run all the time but it may help...

 

https://www.machinemart.co.uk/p/cam250-portable-ventilator/

That’s more like it! How loud is it when running? 

7 minutes ago, Jay84 said:

I guess the difficulty is allowing access for the diesel smoke meter while the engine is revved. Even worse when it's owned by an old lady who thinks it a practical car to pop to the shops in and fill the workshop with soot. We've got old school roof extractor pipes. Our heating is rubbish though and we're tempted to burn an old oil drum hobo style.

Well after a lot of moaning over the last few winters we do the smoke test first with the cars exhaust backed outside. However it seems to be some of the higher end cars that stink the most, BMWs seem particularly Punjant even on tick over.

Probably due to the amount of emissions systems running to supposidly reduce harmful gases.

Something like this, without the price tag! https://www.ebay.co.uk/i/232277784950 

surely thats just a mobile extractor fan with some heat resistant ducting?

Hi all, winter will soon be here, the heater in work will be fired up and one side of the garage doors will be closed. Sounds cosey? Well it’s not.

working in a garage / MOT station means one thing in the winter........Diesel fumes.

the majority of cars on the roads today are diesel, without getting into a debate about there efficiency or affordability I’m going to say I HATE Diesel engines.

They stink, make my eyes water and burn my nose and as my boss is old he doesn’t appreciate having both sets of doors open to air the place out in the colder months.

This year I’m determined to come up with an affordable D.I.Y (or not) exhaust extraction system so I don’t have to put up with being slowly gassed to death by the devils fuel.

Any suggestions welcome....

1 hour ago, Ekona said:

Given he wrote that book a full two years before the MPS4 came out, I'd suggest that's fairly impressive foresight.

My bad, he refers to the pilot sport 3 .

Ive just ordered a set  

ben Collins (the stig) also gives these a mention in his book “how to drive” .

10 hours ago, Tarmac@TarmacSportz said:

Short answer.... no

 

http://www.mkivsupra.net/vbb/showthread.php?63029-Internal-differenses-2JZ-turbo-and-2JZ-non-turbo

Good work! That's it then, I'll just need to save 20k !

6 hours ago, Tarmac@TarmacSportz said:

 

Ahh- sorry should have read it more thoroughly

 

OP - You can get a NA Turbo for about £9k, Personally I think the TT Auto's are a better option for similar money

 

There are some bargains still to be had, I got a good deal on a pretty rare Auto TT with aero top in baltic blue, just needs a few quid and some elbow grease spending on it to make it mint again

I've never been a fan of the TTs, or automatics to be honest!

And yes I've seen a few N/A turbo conversions buttttt this leads to my origional question........Are N/A engines the same as the GTEs? apart from the obvious.

4 hours ago, Tarmac@TarmacSportz said:

 

By the time you have spent the money you may as well buy a turbo kit or better still LS Swap it, easy DIY with this kit

 

https://www.tarmacsportz.co.uk/brands/sikky-manufacturing-uk-store/sikky-nissan-350z-z33-lsx-swap-kit-stage-1.html

 

I have a twin turbo supra but by no means and expert, but I can tell you everything is expensive and most things are getting discontinued now so prices are rising even more.

 

 

This is true but there is something about the 2JZ supras that keeps bringing me back to autotrader and the forums! 

I cant help it!

34 minutes ago, Ian said:

USA already has Supras, the price increase isnt due to them becoming eligible to import to the USA like the GTR is, the price oncrease is across the board with the majority of the 'Legendary' JDM cars.

 

If you buy an NA car, just NA-T its much easier and cheaper and you an get decent power out of them also. The gearbox is where the money is, I sold mine second hand with 161K miles on it for £3K. The price of engines is starting to go up also due to the 2J being a popular swap these days.

 

You could always use a Z gearbox, adaptor kits with clutch and flywheel are around £1500.

 

2J in the Supra and Aristo are the same, I think all aristo's are VVTI though

Do the N/A engines require more strengthening ? They are a shorter bore stroke as well aren't they?

What are the gearboxes in them like compared to the Zeds?

I don't mind the work involved in swapping stuff over, in fact I'd prefere to build it myself if I'm honest!

im just worried the window for me affording one is getting smaller, especially with the way the government is going on its "emissions war"

Anybody.......?

I'd like to know how compatible the different engines, gearboxes and chassis are.

if I bought an automatic non turbo for a few grand then later on source the twin turbo engine and a manual gearbox, would it be a relatively simple job?

Ive always wanted a supra and I've noticed the prices are shooting up, probably due to the fact that they will soon be exportable to the US and worth a lot more. 

would it be advisable to just buy one with the manual box and 2jz GTE or find a cheap rust free N/A auto and upgrade as and when I find the parts?

Also is there a difference between the 2jz GTE in the supra and the Toyota aristo?

Are there any supra experts on here?

I have some questions

Hi all, I'm looking for recommendations for getting my manual gearbox refurbed. It's a bit notch when cold and if your too quick it's crunch in 3rd.

Also, is it at all possible to change the gearing?

I'd like it a bit more like my EP3 type R gearbox was apart from I'd have 6th as a cruising gear.

After I think 2001 all European cars have to have EOBD (European onboard diagnostics) so yea it will give you P codes on all cars after 2001.

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Possibly yes but it's more than likely the one on the pedal itself if you have fitted a new pedal.

Basically the sensor on the pedal and the sensor in the throttle body must read the same otherwise it flags up as a fault.

Compressed air would clean out any crap from the plug but when they are connected they are pretty well sealed so it's more than likely the electrical connectors inside the plug not touching properly on the pedal box plug.

Obviously this is just guess work but it's were I would start if you have played around with the pedals 👊
There are two, one is part of the throttle body on the engine, the other is part of the pedal assembly, if you look at the pedal box there is a plug on the top of each pedal. It's a grey plug from memory

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Honey

 

Not the stuff you buy in supermarkets but straight from the hive. Natural and unrefined

 

Best to start taking it in the spring

I've heard this but hasn't it got to be local honey?

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Ahh, just a thought but I had a similar problem, traced it to the connection between the throttle sensor (on the pedal) and the throttle controller.

Maybe if you have swapped pedals over the connection isn't good.

The throttle sensors work between 0 and 5 volts so any poor connections will flag up a fault code.

I had to unplug it and close the connections over with a small pick so it was a snug fit electrically.

Worth a try?

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Update. Still EML coming on after 5/10 minutes driving. Same sequence of flashes as before:

2,11,10,3

Does anybody have a clue what it relates to? Car drives fine but its starting to annoy me. Will a reader give more specific diagnosis of issue and if so can anyone provide a link to right one.

Thanks people

Have you got a throttle controller fitted?

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I had the same problem, the connection between the accelerator pedal and the throttle controller isn't the best. I un-plugged it, closed the connections up with a small pick and re connected.

Haven't seen the light since then.

I think the pedal works between 0 and 5 volts so if there is any drop in voltage due to a poor connection it will flag the code up and go into limp home mode.

Hope this helps 👊
Brilliant, as long as I've not been hacked! Thanks for the info lads ðŸ‘

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I wouldn't worry too much. It's just a spam flash SMS. A text message won't give you a virus.

Good to know, I really couldn't be arsed changing all my passwords and stuff!

I would love to know what it says tho??

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