Spoons

Hi all, Changing my front banana arm bushes to Super Pro bushes. There are two options at the same price, standard ones or extra Camber. My Z isn't lowered but as far as I know it would matter either way. The extra Camber as I understand it should just help with high speed stability and more responsive steering. Had anyone any hands on real experience having fit these, was it a good or bad thing. Cheers Matt

One of the members on here fitted them without any issues, hes had at least 14 months out of them: http://www.350z-uk.c...ession-arms-70/ Thanks for this, and i wasn't going to admit this as some people get a little hot under the collar..... But £250 are f#*K#+! Kidding and that's a cheaper option than a dealer. Even if there is an unfounded quality suspicion, given they have to pass standards still I doubt anything will fail catastrophicly. At worst the dreaded knock may come back. At £70 and a couple of hours work I'm more than willing to chance it. If it goes again in a couple of years who cares it's a serviceable part, one that can be done three times for the price of the well pricey number. £250 on a rubber bush and a ball joint on a bit of alloy, tut. Again just my opinion. Lol

Hi, I didn't want to start trying to describe the knock as it never really gets a thread anywhere constructive (my opinion) . But....the knock I have is distinctive and easy to tell it's from the drivers side front. In fact on first hearing it, it sounded more like there was something loose behind the dash or clocks. This led to windscreen scuttle been removed and inspection of window wiper arms checked among other stuff in that area. Given the ball ache to remove dash I haven't been in a rush to remove. Instead studying this annoying thing every drive. Multiple physical investigations i discovered where I thought it was coming from, that been the inner track rod ball joint. With the engine off and the car on the ground, not jacked, turn the steering until resistance is high and then let go. With no power steering interference it rocks back and haho a knock. Suffice to say I swapped the track rod and the knock was still there.....stay with me I'm getting to the point. I returned to the drivers side track rod and realised the knock was transmitting from the very close proximity pinion gear from the steering rack. I did some googling and found a lot of people were experiencing a similar locality, knock from behind the dash. Their problem was the pinion gear in the rack and the noise was transmitting up the column. There are stories of racks going with as little as 17 thousand miles. This could be worth checking yourself for your knock. I haven't ruled this out but I'm trying the compression arm next. Simply because if it is play in the pinion gear I am two close to a big Road trip to be removing rack and having reconditioned. Second it a lot easier to change the compression arm and the times it knocks I'm not convinced it's from the rack in my case and I have just found a knock when I was looking for one.Hope this helps as you sound to have been cursed longer than I have. 😉

It's a thought I guess, it stings it's got to be a £250 punt. Any experience with the £70 arms of flee bay. I recon that's what was fit new 8 months ago. Brakes were good enough to pass am MOT but not quite to my liking. Im going to try a third bleed with the engine running and if not up to scratch then to the garage for pressure bleed.

I probably know the answer already but.....is there a sure fire way of testing them. The side it is coming from had a new banana arm less than 8 months ago. How often do they fail. I have in the last half hour had the car up in the air with a large pri-bar under the tyre. With the Mechanics head next to the arm. They aren't a cheap bit of kit to just be swapping willy-nilly.

Right I'm an engineer and work on my own cars for most undertakings. I have a knock on the front right of the Z. Im not about to start describing it as I think it's a complete waste of time as is a video. Im sure most would agree that unless your in the car people can interpret them as all sorts and miss diagnose. I have looked/pushes/pulled and swung on just about everything. Also it's just passed it's MOT today, and me and the owner of the garages I trust spent ages and found nothing. I live in Wakefield, West Yorkshire and would be willing to travel 50 miles. If there is anyone in that radius that thinks they are a big enough expert, and think they have come across every knock and squeak going on a Z. Would you willing to help diagnose this bloody knock. I would pay for your time! It is only important as on the 3Rd of September I am doing a European Road trip that will see about 3000 miles in two weeks done. If nobody can help is there a specialist near me ish. Im on my knees begging (it's driving me mad)

Lol yes you would have thought the Z would have been like most normal car, as I did. The logical furthest wheel away from the master cylinder working your way in. That is the way I did it first time. Then read up a bit more and did it the Z way the second, quirky. Although makes perfect sense if it's lay out is a Z like format on the brake lines.I assume that by not having the car running certain valves in the ABS are not open so don't allow air in or fluid through. With the engine running these valves open allowing you to purge the ABS.

I bled the inner side of the calipers and then the outer. Order was NSR-OSF-OSR-NSF.

I hate to have to publicly admit my mistakes but I'm swallowing my pride. I fit new Hose technic stainless brake lines the other day and fear I got air in the ABS system. The wheel came off on the front near side brake lines. For those that don't know it's a two line set up joined by junction blocks. My mistake on this corner was forgetting to nip up the line on one of these blocks after been happy they were sitting where they should. I continued on with the rear set fitting and it was on the last corner i realised there was a puddle at the front near side wheel. I jumped up screaming every blue word in the dictionary and found the reservoir empty :'( I bled the brakes twice and there is zero air coming out of any corner. I do have brakes and they aren't that bad,but the pedal is soft and I can just tell from the feel there is air in there. However the pedal is not as good as before and with stainless lines and fresh fluid it should be at least as good if not better. This is why I suspect air in the Abs. My question is can I get air out of the ABS if I bleed the brakes with the engine running or ignition on. Or is it a garage job for a nightmare session. Thanks in advance. Let the scolding begin.

as per the workshop manual. It's either that or unplug the plugs on the abs system. I assume it's to avoid any interference from the abs whilst bleeding or a safety feature or just nissan been paranoid lol.

only if you'll be my partner pal lmao

Thanks pal that's great I'll give it a go, not much of a dancer though so may have to get the wife to do it 😉ðŸ‘

Hi, hoping this can be resolved fairly easily. I disconnected the battery while I was upgrading to stainless steel brake lines. During the process I had to reconnect the battery to shut the windows as it started to **** it down. I did press the brake pedal at this time prior to bleeding the syst, before disconnecting again before doing the rears. I bled the brakes and then reconnected the battery and now the engine light is on. Has the ECU picked up a false fault with pressing the brake pedal prior to bleeding or have o just got it confused disconnecting and reconnecting the battery. How do I turn the dam thing off. Im happy there is no real fault that exists as all I have done is change the hoses. Any help would be great and appreciated. Cheers Matt

will do pal

I have the thin blade spoiler already and that's why I like this style as it links in well and save butchering that.

I have the thin blade spoiler already and that's why I like this style as it links in well and save butchering that.

Cheers gents for the input. For 90 quid I'm tempted to try it out and I haven't seen that style been sold anywhere else other that eBay. it is the only one I would put on the car, as no offence to anyone but just not keen on any others.

Lmao your right there pal! The eBay number is this....131846657179 can't put a full link on via my phone.

Hi, anyone had any experience with this type of spoiler or seller on eBay. I really like the style, I have no issues with having to put time and effort into shaping and fitting this. I just want to know if the quality is any good. Any help is as always much appreciated.

Big thanks to Alex for coming up trumps with these parts I needed.

they can do one for me new at just over £200 sheets. Can you do anything better. ;-)

Thanks to you guys for replying. ALEX do you have any more info regarding the HR pan. I.e. Part n.o. And where I may get one. I have feelers out with Clark Motorsport at the minute.

Shhhhhhh, don't tell anyone what a knob iv been ;-). Had a knocking coming from front end, jacking the Z up to have a butchers and don't ask me how but instead of my jack rolling back as it lifted it pulled off the cross member and you guessed it the Z landed on the sump pan half on that half on the cross member. T#*t! So the question from the dumb ass is. It's a 2008 HR engine. 1. Does anyone know if it's the same pan as the DE to start with. 2. Does anyone have a part number for it. 3. Anyone got a spare in good condition they want to sell. Any help is as usual much appreciated. Yours truly mumpet ;-)

Cheers chaps I'll have a go but can't promise anything. Been the front car only got other folks in the car parks. No gormless possess of Steve unfortunately ;-)

Hi Matt top effort so far fella, what editing program do you use. I had a dash cam on all weekend and would love to put snippets together.