matt3579

Relay will be needed for sure, you can't draw too much power through the existing wiring that is designed just to run a couple of interior bulbs, no wonder it keeps blowing 😉. Relays are simple enough to wire up, and you can tap into the direct feed you already have coming from the battery using thicker gauge cable that can handle the current draw. Then all you need is a negative and a wire going to the interior light wiring to switch the relay on.

Any ideal what kind or relay would be needed ?

Snake oil.

 

If you're not having electrical problems, then don't introduce an unknown magic box that could cause them.

dont rate it then? i dunno if i would say magic box? the theory behind it seems legit how much benefit tho ive no idea, just curious if anyone has used one

so looking at doing few fancy lighting jobs and change my jdm battery to a uk one, and stumbled across one of these....

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/D1-SPEC-VOLTAGE-STABILIZER-BLACK-INTEGRA-CELICA-180SX-200SX-240SX-RX7-350Z-MX5-/191001208098?hash=item2c788f2522:g:CU8AAOxyVaBSqkTg

it boasts torque and hp gains .... ive looked online and it is plausible like 0.5whp and 1.5 gain torque but could also be down to variable dyno runs ect

my main question is smooting out the cars electrical system rather than gains has anyone used one are they any good? its cheap so i dont mind splashing for it i more cant be arsed with fitting it and finding out its crap based on the theory of regulating the battery and such seems like it would work and make the tick over improve slightly and possible reduce battery drain when the car isnt being used....?

any ideas or advice greatly appericated.

matt

Surely you'd need a relay and/or switch live rather than overpowering the puny live for an interior light?

got the neons on a switch to the battery for when im driving but would be nice to have them come on when unlocking like the dome light but as ou say surely a relay or something or ideally a better power source ...

Not sure about a live on unlock, but I know some folks have tapped into the door switch so your lights could come on when a door is opened?

may ne worth putting on the backburner if i cant fine anything else any idea which wire i should be looking for and where?

hey, so i have neons on the car already running on battery with a switch so i can turn them on and off.

that all runs fine.

i want to add a addition wire in there so they come on when the car is unlocked basically with the interior light but i understand this can cause issues with the bcm and i did try but kept blowing fuses except the 30amp one but the wires got hot quick so took off.

is there another 12v source that i can tap into that becomes live when the car unlocked like the dome light?

thanks

Looking good mate.

Just wheels to go?

thanks yer seen some but a bit of saving to do first might just have to see if anything cheap comes up first tho

the bottom of the arch has the bases molded on ive only had to cut one off but im going to be shaping one over it to fit.

im thinking just gonna get some wheel archs from the scrap yard any ones will do then basically cut and melt them together, or something along those lines so it can carry on sitting in the arch and wrap round.

looks good

 

I see you went for the version without the arches which is nice too

 

fitment looks spot on...keep the pics coming

thanks does have the archs on tho but yer it does look nice without but had to do the whole lot, tho had i been told how much of a pain it is i may have stopped and left it without them....

its getting there got the front passenger arch left half to get on and spoiler, the drivers rear by the petrol cap needs a fair bit of taking out sadly ...

another couple weeks should be a done job

and the final piece of the puzzle is the spoiler, so a couple drive down the Devon way to pick it up off a fellow member, all nice ready shaped with carbon blade just needs paint

fyi to anyone picking one up it on just fit in the back of my fn2 civic so i wouldnt pick one up in a corsa,

needs to dry then i can clear coat it and ready to fit it

so its coming together and looking good where would the veilside kit be without that sexy wide arch look so on they went

sadly this side had to come back off as the petrol cap opened fine on test fit but when bolted on..... no so much so that has had some sanding and still in progess.

but on the other hand the front looks sexy

i have found that riveting the kit on is best however it gets a bit tense when your doing it and hear a crack :O the arch onto the metal is fine but arch onto the skirts and bumpers need a small amount of reinforcing on the back

sadly i dont take a great deal of photos so its kinda a jumpy process but test fitted the front bumper and on sanded filled ect but heres what you want to see painted and fitted.

and well to make it look the part and a bloody price visual mod well for a sticker anyway, upwards of £20 so lucky it went on perfect first time.... phewww

this photo is before the front went on but has the rear and skirts painted

so ive not updated this in quite some time but fear not i have been busy working away with something

so first up i brought the v3 kit and sits sat in the garage for some time then i got bored looking so it so test fitting began.

started with the rear bumper as it seemed the easyist ....

then came side skirts

and after alot of fiddling, sanding, shaping, filling and more sanding it was looking good

hey buddy tempted to take this off you and turn it into a sub box do you know what its made from?

Shame I haven't got the money these would look nice on my veilside zed

ok so to give me a rough kinda guide

10j -40....?

11j -30

12j -20....?

appericate the help

the rear is the standard rays so 8.5j with a 25mm spacer fitted probs gonna try and stick with 18's ot maybe 19's

ive got 20mm spacer on the front and 25mm on the rear havent got the front on yet but rear is looking 65-70 mm

so ive jsut fitted the v3 kit well most of it the front archs are still being sanded primed painted ect but the rear is on.

with that in mind the standard rays are about 65-70mm in from the arch, can anyone tell me what size wheels i would need to sit flush with the arch or atleast bring them out 60mm min.

ive got 25mm spacers on the back and 20mm on the front so happy to keep them on but ive no idea where to start with this really so any ideas are great

many thanks

matt

as above looking for a v3 veilside spoiler seen one on ebay but dont fancy £400 if i can help it for a replica so seeing if anyone has one laying around

They should but have been sold now I'm afraid

Mods please lock

Hey bud do you have any polished plenum a ready to go?

As above who's got some for sale they don't need

Let me know a price

Thanks

How much for the roof lining? My washer bottle is drivers side tho

Can have them for £20 collected jdm