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Hig

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Everything posted by Hig

  1. Hi all, Has anyone replaced the following: Rubber trim on the roof that sits under the trim that goes over the side windows (sits between the roof and the trim) Rubber trim that runs up each pillar of the windscreen (sits between glass and pillar) I ask because the windscreen one has managed to come loose at the bottom and was sticking out until I pushed it back in, but it is now shorter than the opposite side which doesn't look right. The roof one is similar in that it keeps on coming out from under the trim and I keep on having to push it back in every so often, so now I'm thinking it might be best just to replace it all. Thanks, Matthew
  2. Has anyone else any thoughts on this? / Has anybody else had this problem?
  3. If something was dirty though would I not always have the issue? Not just at one specific point?
  4. The revs jump as well, the car judders because of it ... That's me not being clear!
  5. Hi all, I start my car cold in the morning / evening and my car drives fine, until I get to roughly operating temperature, at which point between 1500 - 2500 revs the rev needle bounces uncontrollably. I would say this happens for roughly half a minute, at which point the issue will resolve itself (unless I drop a gear to raise the revs first). My car is up-to-date on servicing, has been re-mapped (but the issue was there before then) and only has a Scorpion cat-back and Cosworth filters fitted. My car is a 2007 HR, and other than this and the clicking axle (which I'll sort), she is perfect! Any help is appreciated! Matthew
  6. Hi all, Just wanted to spend some time to give a positive review for a company who have put a lot of effort in to get my car right over the last three weeks. The reason I want to put this here is because I really feel they deserve it, a lot of effort went in to make sure the car was perfect, there was no "that'll have to do" attitude shown at any stage of the process. My car is a Tempur Orange HR, a colour that is a three stage pearlescent and very difficult to match. The story started last year when someone hit my car in the gym car park and then drove off, taking no responsibility at all. The impact damaged the front bumper and also caused damage to the wing in mutliple places, this meant that the bumper and wing both needed repair work and then painting to match the rest of the car. Long story short the car went in three weeks ago, they had trouble matching the colour perfectly and had to use multiple paint specialists before the colour match was perfect (at no extra expense on top of the price I had been given), but I got the car back on Saturday morning and she looks perfect, meaning I am one happy owner who would very much recommend them to anyone in the North West who needs any kind of paintwork/bodywork fixing. The web address is: http://www.lloyds-autobody.com/liverpool.php Thanks, Matthew
  7. haha ... that would be me! Must admit I do love my plate!
  8. Just looking for some thoughts on this. So the car drives fine except for a few seconds when the car reaches operating temperature. Essentially for a few seconds, like this morning when I was driving along in 4th doing 30mph, the throttle was depressed only slightly and the rev counter needle was bouncing up and down (at this point the exhaust note changes, it is much rougher). It was doing this before my re-map (which has made this issue slightly better) but I'm just wondering what exactly this issue is. Abbey & TDI claim to be able to fix such stutter, but I'm just wondering what exactly this would be and if there's anything I should try before I contact TDI again to ask them for more information on what it might be. '57 plate HR btw ... Thanks all!
  9. Hig

    My HR Remap

    235 at the hubs yes, who ... 285 starting at the hubs would be immense! Any thoughts on sports cats and headers? Are they worthwhile?
  10. Hig

    My HR Remap

    Ok this could be interesting Frankie! Essentially I'll get roughly to the point where my engine will be getting to operating temperature, at which point my exhaust note changes and my rev needle literally bounces up and down for a few seconds (like it is swapping fuel maps and making a hash of it). From my research my understanding was that this was a HR issue and it would be resolved by having the re-map done (or at least that's what TDI North seemed to confirm to me). I've noticed the car will accelerate fine when this happens, if I plant my foot then that seems to cure the problem immediately, but I know that if something like that is happening then planting my foot is obviously no long term fix. I'm guessing this hasn't happened to you then?
  11. Hig

    My HR Remap

    Hi all, So just recently I went over to RS Tuning in Leeds to have a re-map done. It all started out with some surprising news that my Z was down on power due to her seemingly having learnt a fuel map that made her run rich (turbo rich as Paul described it). I'm not sure how this may have happened, or if the car previously had a bad map, but thankfully it hasn't caused any damage. In my opinion, the car feels a little bit faster (obviously 30bhp makes a difference) and it definitely drives smoother so for me it has been worthwhile, the only thing is the rpm stutter that the HR seems to have has not been fixed by the re-map, although TDI-North claim they can fix it so at the minute I'm not 100% sure what I want to do (any thoughts appreciated!). Anyway, here are the mods, figures, a graph, a pic and a video for you all to have a look at! Mods: Cosworth Air Filters Scorpion Y-Pipe Scorpion Exhaust Figures: Starting bhp: 285.5 Finished bhp: 317 Started FtLb: 260-ish Finished FtLb: 280-ish Starting whp: 234.5 Finished whp: 262.1 When talking HP gain, it is obviously more like a rough 10hp gain than a 31.5bhp gain, this is just down to how my car was running but I'm treating it as a bonus as I may not have otherwise got that power back without resetting the ECU (which I don't do often!) Graph: https://goo.gl/photo...Hc9AWFdfno9SG29 Pic: https://goo.gl/photo...Prp59nTWWy4HuY7 Video: https://goo.gl/photo...vwxri18QcSDzig8
  12. Yeah I'm interested in the performance aspect if these are ok: F: 235/35 R18 R: 255/35 R18 Otherwise there is: F: 235/45 R18 R: 255/45 R18 I'd prefer the 35 profile really, think the sidewalls would be stiffer.
  13. Hi guys, So following the installation of my Bilstein B8's and Tein S-Tech springs, along with the imminent arrival of my Stillen roll bars, I am looking to fit the Pilot Super Sport's to finish off the upgrades (not liking the Hankook V12's). I don't know how worthwhile spending £800+ on a new set of wider wheels would be (thinking 8.5 front and 9.5 rear) so instead I was thinking of fitting slightly wider than stock tyres on the GT alloys (as I do like them), the tyre sizes I'd like advice on are: F: 235/35 R18 R: 255/35 R18 The difference in circumference becomes 2% ... As opposed to the 2.7% of the stock tyre sizes (although I'd appreciate if someone could confirm I've got that right) So my question is will those sizes work with regards to the systems on the car? And if so will the handling still be ok? I'd also like opinions on whether wider wheels and even wider tyres would be £800 worth it. Thanks in advance all!
  14. Oh I realise the price range I'm getting myself into, I've just had coilover's and I'm not that interested in having them again, plus I'd want a really decent set of coilovers which are going to be 1000k+ and I'm not that bothered, I feel that stock springs with the uprated shocks will give me everything I need, I liked the way the last Z handled but felt the Bilstein's would have been good on that, which is why I am at where I am now. Is a front and back roll bar upgrade going to be worthwhile? My last car, FWD, benefited hugely from just doing the rear roll bar ... I'm reading around that it would be a worthwhile upgrade to do. Main things I'm wondering are where to buy the stock springs from and what I should consider swapping whilst I have the change if anything (such as the top mounts etc.) Oh I must have temper orange I didn't realise, I just had a quick look on google images and only found the one colour similar ... Thanks for that :-)
  15. Hi all, I had a blow out in my last Z (completely stock) a few weeks ago which happened mid-turn on a slip road and put me backwards into the barrier, since then I have bought another Z (a le mans sunset HR) which is lowered but the car doesn't feel as good to me with whatever is currently on so I was thinking of going back to new stock springs with Bilstein dampers. My questions are: Where's the best place to buy OEM springs from new? What should I consider replacing whilst everything is out? Should I consider fitting uprated anti roll bars whilst I'm at it? (Guessing either Eibach or Whiteline) I'm really into driving but I don't want to mess around with coilovers etc. because I've been there and done that and I don't want them again as I don't think they're worth it on the road. The reason I'm prompted to do this so soon is because I scraped badly over speed bumps recently and I don't want that, I also don't want trouble if I have to use a car park etc. Plus the feel of the car isn't as good either (I won't go on lol!) I'm all good for tools, already have the spring compressors :-) Thanks, Matthew
  16. Everything you need is from a thread I started a few weeks back before I ordered everything for my car: http://www.350z-uk.com/topic/96710-kenwood-head-unit-double-check/#entry1460822
  17. Frustrating! I want to use the hands free! Is my only option to get something like an iPhone 3GS (I know that works) and call forward if I don't want to be buying a new HU?
  18. Hi all, Has anyone tried the Galaxy S6 with the 350Z Bluetooth? Does it finally work? I have an '07 350Z and my current Galaxy S5 disconnects 10 seconds or so after pairing. Thanks, Matthew
  19. I have this noise as well. It is a light knock, normally after a longer journey (20 mins or so) although not always. There is no real rhythm to it, just more of a crackly knock but is is very quiet, once you pull up without the radio on you can hear it. I've had a search around and from what I found people where blaming the Dual Mass Flywheel for being the cause of this noise, I've had mine two weeks now and the noise is there sometimes but not always. Interested to hear what everyone else has to say though! Edit# Forgot to say, I can also feel a it through the clutch whenever the knock happens, usually if I rest my foot on the clutch (not depressed).
  20. So is there no external module out there to do this? On my previous car I bought a relay kit that let you unlock-lock-unlock and the windows would auto down. Then when you locked the car again the windows would auto up.
  21. Not working on my 2008 GT ... Should it work? I'd really like this feature back after having it on my last car! Thanks in advance. Matthew
  22. Right ok, wasn't sure if I'd need that or not as the last model I had in my last car fitted in without buying a facia, will get it ordered as well though. Cheers dude! :-)
  23. Hi all, So I'm thinking of installing the following in my car and I just wanted to ask what else I need to fit it? I have read lots of posts on here and I'm just confused as to what I need, I've read too many different things! The head unit in question: http://caraudiosecurity.com/dnx-4150bt-6-2-cd-dvd-receiver-sat-nav-bluetooth-iphone-stere I think I also need: http://incartec.co.uk/Pages/Product.aspx?P=2975 http://incartec.co.uk/Pages/Product.aspx?P=2647 Have I understood what I need correctly? Are there going to be any surprises or will this be a plug and play thing? Thanks, Matthew
  24. I know exactly what you mean! The gulf between the cars has really surprised me!
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