Apex

Are these still available?

Bump

Set of 4 Samco Blue Silicone radiator hoses in never fitted, as new condition. 

Turns out sometime ago I managed to buy the wrong set for my Z. Please note these will only fit MY 2007 onward. 

I'm looking for £85 including postage.

Payment to be made via PayPal (buyer pays transaction fees), bank transfer or cash on collection. 

Collection can be organised between Swansea and Bristol, I make the journey at least 3 times a week.

Have a look at the attached pic

Adding any Mishimoto parts?

19 hours ago, DanBoy said:

Collection is fine, I'm down in Plymouth, Devon. 

Let me know if you're interested 

PM Sent

Is collection an option? If so where are you based?

PM'd

Did mine to 90 I think and haven't had any issues. Even if they do come lose, they can't fall off.

Please explain how they can't fall off

Thanks or the replies, already running a Samco intake pipe. Been toying with the idea of some induction work over the winter but not turning up much good reading material as of yet to what works and what doesn't and what's possible before needing cams and valves etc.

What's the difference with the outside diameter of the TB over the stock one?

Will stock induction piping fit or are adaptors needed?

Most modern MAF's do operate on a "hot blade" principal and the air passing over the blade is converted into a volumetric factor and very an intake air temperature reading. What I am commonly seeing on the latest Euro 5 and Euro 6 diesel engines is that the readings of air flow seem to remain "accurate" for a more than reasonable amount of time ie. 3 years plus (this is on machinery running in excess of 2500 hrs a year, but I am regularly seeing huge discrepancies in intake air temperature readings, often 20 degrees out of calibration.

During the Bosch training courses I attended for these engines we were explicitly told to never attempt to clean a MAF using brake cleaner or any other solvent based solution, these leave a coating on the blade once evaporated and as the blade heats up during operation it causes the blade to burn rendering its readings inaccurate. Another factor that can cause issues with them is water vapor in large quantities contacting the blade during normal operation. I've seen 3 instances of our machinery being pressure washed whilst the engine was running and water soaking the air filter causing it to tear and water passing over the MAF rendering it useless.

These hot blade MAF's are not without their problems but they are far more accurate than previous types used.

I'm starting to see more diesel engines now without MAF's and manufactures opting to use MAP (manifold absolute pressure) sensors and a separate intake air temp sensor in the induction trunking instead.

The easiest way to check the calibration would be using a decent diagnostic system and checking the air temp readings against ambient air temp. Check the air flow rate usually displayed in Ltr / hr or Ltr / min and then calculating against the engine speed

What is the Siemens VDO number on the back of the key?

Either very low amperage in the battery, loose battery terminal or starter motor wiring connections, most likely a duff battery due to the fact it starts ok on jump leads. One thing batteries don't like is being left to sit with no use. If you have access to a battery charger remove the battery and put it on a slow / trickle charge and try again.

 

You also need to ensure the blue wires are spliced together so that the Bose amp gets told to switch on.

 

 

This ^^^^^^^

Had the same issue with my Kenwood

Potenza RE050 front and rear. About £140 a corner I think, not sure as they were payment for a job.

Done

You are going to have to go some to beat that Clio though

Looks fantastic! Did it have the purple hue in the flesh or was it something the camera picked up under the lights?

Order placed and payment sent

Thanks guys your dedicated reading it this time on a Saturday ������

Had just got home from work, it's nice to see such a big change in a car. This type of work really impresses me, I could spend a day or two stripping and rebuilding an engine or gearbox and nobody would be able to tell the difference apart from the owner who knew there was something wrong but the results from this car are much more tangible and are there for everybody to see

Thats damn good work, just curious ( newby and all ) how long will the swirls be gone for? Thinking about getting my paint corrected but for £200 idk if it's worth it, depending on how long it lasts

It's paint correction not a temporary repair, the defects in the top coat are polished out ie. the surrounding material is polished down to the level of the defects not filling the scratches in to bring it up to the level of the surrounding material.

If you were to just use a wax on a scratched surface the wax fills in the scratches and brings the level up to match the surrounding area, over time the wax will wear off and the appearance will return to what it was. As long as the painted surfaces are washed and treated correctly the correction will last as long as taking care of new paint will, hope this answered your question.

That's amazing! Looks like a different car

Great work as usual Ed!

Glad to hear it worked out :thumbs

Do you have a link to the reprogramming guide?

Stunning job Ed! It actually looks like a new car now

Have you changed the type of clay you are using?

What was the outcome of this Ian?