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KrisRatcliffe

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Posts posted by KrisRatcliffe

  1. On 12/06/2014 at 18:42, KrisRatcliffe said:

    Model: Nissan 350Z VQ35HR 2007

    Mods: Stillen Gen 1 Intakes, Stillen Y-pipe, Berks HFCs, Lightened Flywheel, Greddy Spectrum Elite Backbox, Uprev

    Dyno: TDi North

    BHP: 335.6 bhp flywheel, 276.2 lbft torque

     

    20140612_180529.jpg

     

    Went back to TDi North for a service and to check fueling etc was all still running correctly. Only thing that's changed is I've had a resonater put in with the custom mid box which has restricted it slightly according to Paul. It felt slightly hesitant around the 2.5-3k mark then pulled hard which I thought was odd. So I decided to go on another run on the dyno and adjusted the map to suit and it made 324.2 bhp & 300 lbft torque. Fueling was taken from the top end and added mid range hence the lower bhp and increased mid range torque figures. Seems to pull much harder now low/mid range which I think suits driving on the road much better.

  2. Last week I had an issue with the idle not settling. I tried various tests myself to try and resolve the problem but nothing seemed to be working. I was due a service anyway so I taken my car to TDi North to carry out the service and see if they had any joy diagnosing the problem. They've checked for air leaks, checked everything is showing the correct readings (maf etc), reloaded my uprev back onto the ECU and the problem still persists. They seem to think the ECU has been spiked and have recommended I either send it off to Nissan or get a replacement ECU and load the map onto that one. Obviously I can't be without a car for weeks so the option I'd prefer to go with is getting a replacement ECU. Would there be any problems with me changing the ECU completely?

  3. Things break, clips fail, rubber hoses perish, gasket fall apart.

     

    Sounds like me, I'm getting old though :wheelchair::lol:

     

    Try the throttle resets then - might be due to battery off - also worth checking for leaks - unused cars can often have more problems than used ones!

     

    I've tried the throttle position reset a couple of times which done nothing. I also downloaded the NDSIII app and tried using the Idle Air Volume Learn function which seems to come up with IAVL failed each time. Unless this cold weather has played a part in it, my dad said the battery died and the idle only started playing up after there was a really cold night. As for checking for leaks I wouldn't 100% know if I was looking in all the correct places

  4. Typically that sounds like a vacuum leak around the throttle body which is throwing the system off. Which is causing the rev hunting

    A throttle position reset won't lose the Uprev remap :)

     

    How long ago was it mapped, have you done any work on her recently?

     

    EDIT: FYI I did loads on mine :thumbs:

     

    I'm confused to why there would be a vacuum leak though it's not been anywhere in 2 months as I've been away travelling. While I was away my dad had to charge the battery as it went flat but that was it. I just ran my OBD 2 scanner and it picked up the code P0603 which I cleared. I've tried that test and it doesn't seem to be doing anything unless I'm doing it incorrectly. It was mapped nearly 3 years ago and I've done nothing else since engine wise.

  5. On start up it seems to idle over 2k for a while then eventually drops to 1200 which is still pretty high. I took it for a drive pulled up at home and it now won't idle any lower than 1500rpm and it seems to bounce up to around 1900rpm. I'm unsure what to do as it has a remap and I don't want to perform any resets with my OBD scanner just in case I lose the remap.

  6. I've recently upgraded to the Samsung Galaxy S6 which has the wireless charging function B)

    I need to look into doing something like this as my phone chews the battery when using the sat nav.

    I also put my phone into the cubby as it's a pretty good fit - although sometimes when I accelerate my phone falls onto it's screen :lol:

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