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Posts posted by mick-r1
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heff without me reading your whole thread lol, what type of intake pipe is that?? it looks awesome, i want one
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well thats his one... i wouldnt have done mine if i seen that for inspiration lol
mines a little dirty and i ran out of black, plan is to do the cover too with the badges on it red, which will be the only bit of colour in my bay, everything is going black
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Flat black
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Hmmm and I just whipped off a pair of 25mm spacers today for a better fit on the works......
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No need for photoshop. Buy her the top ones. Theyll look the best on the car.
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With plasti dip it can stay on the car. Real easy stuff to use.
But its glued down and has 2 bolts holding it on if you do want to remove it.
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Grab a can of plasti dip spray it up and see what its like. You dont like it peel it back off and hey presto saved a few quid.
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Just hit join there myself. I know of a handful of owners here but not many
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Nope they werent refurbished at all. Just a good find from a decent enthusiast
Oh hi there michael
The rays really do set off a 350, but they just werent dark enough for me and I couldn't bring myself to paint a set in such good condition.
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cool, pm me a price when you get the postage
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post to ireland??
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stock tubby doesnt max at 0.8 its 1.15 like i said, 0.8 is what it runs with the 2 stage boost removed. yes the ceramic exhaust wheel shatters at 1.2 bar due to heat, the rest about the rebuild and when it runs out are spot on though, but at 1.4 bar with supporting mods youd be near the max of the bottom end anyway,
poncams would keep the low to mid that is usually lost, or being a 33 gtst a 34 gtr exhaust cam and cas with a little fettling would be a nice upgrade too
Sorry mate but that's tosh . R33 runs .6 bar if you remove the two stage it runs .6 all the time rather than the .4 bar initially it doesn't increase the boost, the wheels break much below 1.2 the series one r33 only has ceramic exhaust wheels the series two and r34 run ceramic exhaust and fibre intake wheels and are more fragile .8-.85 is the safe limit for both but they can cope with spikes up to 1bar. It's the speed that kills them not heat.
Rods and crank in the rb25 can run 500hp it's the pistons that are the weak point , I ran 1.45 plus 50hp of gas in mine around 475hp, all stock, car ran mid twelves and was tracked as well.
hahahaha its 0.5 stage 1 then 0.7 stage 2 boost. then remove the solinoid and it will go to 0.75/0.8 depending on intake temps etc..
yeah yeah we can go back and forth my car this your car that, we can all go read wiki etc too, but from being around skylines the past 10 years and owning and modding them from complete stock i think its safe to say its one car i know inside out.
BTW mid 12's at 475 isnt something id be bragging about, sure i done 13.2 with 280bhp then at 350bhp i managed 12.4 never ran it after that on timing gear, but was tracked at 431 on the stock rb25 before i swapped it out and build a 500bhp rb26 in it.... but i suppose thats tosh too lol
anyways OP im liking the sticker over the pipe, car is clean fair play.
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stock tubby doesnt max at 0.8 its 1.15 like i said, 0.8 is what it runs with the 2 stage boost removed. yes the ceramic exhaust wheel shatters at 1.2 bar due to heat, the rest about the rebuild and when it runs out are spot on though, but at 1.4 bar with supporting mods youd be near the max of the bottom end anyway,
poncams would keep the low to mid that is usually lost, or being a 33 gtst a 34 gtr exhaust cam and cas with a little fettling would be a nice upgrade too
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It has to, the more volume the turbo has to pressurise the longer the boost takes to get to the engine its simple physics , its might not be noticeable when driving but its there
with the size of the stock turbo on a gtst it spools quick anyway, its not like your waiting on 2 bar of boost to build. it maxes at 1.15 otherwise it will pop so a large front mount isnt going to be a issue, is anything it just saves having to change a second time when upgrading the turbo. at which point youd have enough to be changing to make the best use of it.
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nice looking car, i do prefer the sound of a v6 though, and that japspeed on a straight six is fairly annoying, best i found was a blitz nur spec, gives it a nice deep throaty sound. then again mine was slightly tinkered with lol
fuel pump is a piece of **** to change but as said make sure youve little to no petrol left when doing it as its sat in the bottom of the tank, the black plastic ring that gives access to the tank is a bitch to get on and off too.
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just done 315miles and have just over a quarter left, but the average mpg on the digital reads 30mpg i reset it before i left
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balls anyway. i just ordered the 2 burgers for not far off that cost
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cant wait to see the fit of this, really considering changing my whole plan of simple for that bumper
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D2EX staggered 19"??
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100% agree, but 'pub numbers' seem to crop up more & more these days, all too often I get asked:
- How much power is it running? - Stock more than your sorry ass can handle
- What quarter mile time can it do? - Never ran it if i only have a quarter mile to go id walk ya lazy ****
- What's the 0-60 time? - Never do standing starts Genius is it not 60-0 you should be worried about
I'd rather Nitron / JRZ suspension with Alcon brake kits & slicks myself for track use
just highlighted a few other options to those answers lol
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I guess this only applies to people who put power high up the priority list but its just a thought
pub numbers are useless when it hits the track
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ill be honest, i bought mine for a box to be ticked, but i fell in love with the drive ability of it and well... now its part of the collection
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**** easy to use, and just as easy to take back off. the finish is an acquired taste, i done the center of the lip on mine and took it back off 2 weeks later... i still have the badges done in it though, but thats only until i buy the black ones
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sweet... do you have the belts there too?? and i also need new plugs.... how much for the lot posted to ireland for me mate?
strut top nut not on fully??
in Suspension
Posted
just a quick one, ive installed lowering springs yesterday, but when i went to remove the top nut on one of the front struts it was a bitch to do, eventually i got it off and installed the spring, but when putting the top mount back on the top nut would only go on 4-5 threads then the rod started so spin, the nut isnt far enough down to grab the top of the rod like i had to when removing the nut, and i cant get a decent grip on the lower part of the rod without probably causing damage to it...
so my question is, do i get a vice grips and clamp it on tight to the lower part of the rob behind the dust cover or would it be alright to leave as is??
i would prefer to clamp and tighten, but dont want to do any damage.
thanks in advance