A9H-RX

Hi Guys, I've got the above clutch in the 350z twin turbo. Works a treat about 95% of the time. The other 5% is when the car gets an utter thrashing and temp gets to about 95 - 100 degrees.. I get a real bad juddering when pulling away from stand still.. (almost like aggressive bunny hopping). Also happens when sitting in traffic for extreme long periods of time (in London) and the engine again gets really hot from not moving.. If I let the engine cool down by turning off for a bit or drive normal for X amount of miles until engine air cools down its fine again... This a common issue with this particular clutch? There is no slipping or change in the biting point.. Thanks

Cash waiting for pre-facelift manual also when you start making

Hi guys, Another problem I encountered over the weekend. In my old 350z I had the Bose system working of a Pioneer double din head unit, with uprated rear speakers running off an amplifier. I since then brought the 350z I have now and decided to direct transfer.. In the mean time I also transferred a tracker system that was hard wired into the Bose Sub wiring loom and got my friend who is an electrician to hard wire it into my new one.. Upon connecting the power to the amp I had the amp earthed and just the RCA's and remote running from the head unit to the amp. I obviously sparked up as you do (nothing unexpected). But blew all fuses in the amp and brought up protect. Since then it seems I have blown the amp and have sent it off for testing as it doesn't accepted fuses when you plug the RCA's in?!?! I also noticed the Bose sub has stopped working?! I put the old head unit back and nothing and also unwired the tracker system. I replaced all the bose amplifiers including the sub itself and still unable to get this bose sub to work again? Does anyone know if it has its independant fuse? I can get the front speakers to work fine and the headunit. I would like to replace the bose wiring loom but it seems it runs within the car loom itself which is annoying..... Sorry for the lenthy notes. Please ask Q's if I made anything unclear. Thanks

I really thought I would be wasting my time with this one as the level was dead on half way but I topped the brake fluid up to maximum and believe it or not it actually cured the error! Looks like I'll be sending the new pads back and deleting abs sensor search results! LOL Cheers guys!

Hi Guys, I tried to search the net and forums for a solution on this but everywhere has a different answer..? I started my car the other day and the Parking brake light, ESP light and Skid/Slip light decided it didn't want to go out? First thing I checked was the brake fluid level which was fine. I then decided to take it for a drive which then the brake light went out and I manged to reset the ESP light. When trashing the car I soon noticed the Brake light coming on at high revs with my foot down, sometimes even bringing the ESP light and skid/slip light back on..? I spoke to Nissan who still know F*ck about anything and according to them the car doesn't have brake pad low warning sensors?? Any solutions on this? Would plugging into a diagnostic bring up fault codes? Regards

I've been reading off Defi Gauge. I've carried out almost 1000miles in it as well with no problems. I spend majority of time off boost as well to keep the MPG up so it isn't constantly being abused..

Coming on 3 weeks nearly. I'm still in touch with previous owner, he is sound as a pound, DSA have backed up full history of the car with him. I've got it booked with DSA for power run tomorrow but will need to sort the oil pressure issue first..

Over the weekend I had the defi oil pressure gauge warning me of low oil pressure. It used to beep low oil sometimes when the revs would fall to below idle (about 700 revs'ish or lower). As the engine is fully forged I was told the low compression does take affect of the rev drop to below idle. Now I did check the oil and I was a little low. I topped her up in the hope this would resolse the problem but it hasn't.. It isn't a constant oil pressure low either, it always fluxuates when I go up to about 4/5k plus then hold the clutch it or come to a complete stop.. Then it will bring itself back up..? Any suggestions on this? Many thanks

Thanks for quick response guys. It was the one off eBay. She's off to DSA Tuesday who built the car for health check and another dyno run. If you can give me a price for 3 inch APS system. I got the full aps with decats. The aps system I got is nice but exhaust back box is too quiet and would like like a bit of noise..

I've got a TT 350z running full APS kit. I understand APS have gone into administration and no longer supply parts. Anyone know of anywhere that still stocks any of there old stock? Or anyone that is breaking ASP kit off a 350z? Would like to try get my hands on the 3" race exhaust system if possible.... Thanks in advance for replies..

http://classifieds.pistonheads.com/classifieds/used-cars/nissan/350z/nissan-350z-gt-spec-v6-2005-300bhp/1019250 Mine. Regards