jonst205

I'm about to replace them all on my Z to try and cure the imprecise front-end - I went for the cheap option via ebay, quality looks good IMHO, at least OE standard

Hi, I need a drivers door hinge, preferably in gunmetal to save me painting one up, but will consider other colours. Both the top and bottom hinges look to be the same, with the top hinge taking the brunt of the wear. Therefore if you have an unworn bottom hinge kicking around that I can give you a few bob for, that would be perfect.

This is to solve a slight door 'sag' which appears to be fairly common, nor surprising given the weight of the doors!

Have already

Cheers,

Jon

Just to confirm the pre-06 airbox has the same arrangement, it's exactly the same apart from the larger trumpet/stack/whatyermacallit. I've removed the foam section to give it a try without.

Question is, does it make any difference to the noise with the foam removed? Gotta love a bit of induction noise if available, the zed is pretty muted on the induction front as standard

You read my mind The only concern I have is that with it removed it actually disrupts the airflow into the stack as you have a big pocket for air to sit in. However I think it should be fine as, especially on throttle, the engine is actively pulling the air in at a fair old rate. I'm taking my old pre-06 box out shortly so will see if it has the same insert arrangement.

View through the front intake, 'pocket' with foam visible at bottom.

Foam section removed.

No worries, will do that this evening. It's akin to a resonator box on Toyota's (separate box), but built-in to the airbox.

Hi all, just about to fit an '06 airbox when I noticed the foam insert inside the base. I guess this is a noise-reduction device (induction noise). Anyone tried just removing the foam insert?

Cheers,

Jon

Have got a pair of ripseed jobbies if you can use them, not to everyone's taste but you can put them on inside out if it bothers you.

Cheers,

Jon

Don't want to poach but if Davec doesn't take the centre trim and cubby can you PM me a price Alex. Are they horrendous brand new?

Cheers,

Jon

Saw this again yesterday 30th August, around 5:20pm, pulling into the Shell station (I was pulling out in my grey 350). I could say there's a connection here, something do with requiring fuel a lot?

Hi all, has anyone got one kicking around they wouldn't mind selling cheapy-cheap please? Intact only, no snapped clips. 2004 model, should it make any difference.

Cheers,

Jon

Cool, well to answer your original question the bolts will start feel tight as the tension increases so that is normal. A good rule my old man taught me many years ago is that you should only just be able to twist the belt 90 degrees along its' longest run. I followed the same rule with my gates belts the other day and they are fine thus far, though will probably need a nip up after they've been run for a couple of weeks.

Jon

Obvious question, are you undoing the pulley bolts a few turns before playing with the tensioner? Otherwise you will just start bending the tensioner bolts.

For anyone looking via search in the future, it was 4.5L exactly to the top of the full line on the dipstick, with filter change.

Cheers,

Jon

Thanks guys, nice to know.

Apologies, I've tried the search on these but obviously wasn't getting the right combinations.

I've done a few more hours work today: oil & filter change, serpentine belts changed, and el cheapo rear drop links to cure my squeaky bum (posh ones to come later). A couple of questions cropped up, the back box and mid pipe are labelled Nissan Calsonic - they look in excellent condition compared to the Y pipe which is obviously original. Is the Calsonic standard on the UK 350Z?

Also on the N/S/R roll bar connection there's a small arm connected to what looks like a stepper motor. It was actually a bit of a pain with the cheapo drop link as there wasn't as much thread as on the standard, but only to be expected I guess, and I worked around it. Does this activate at higher speeds to stiffed the roll bar? Never read about it thus far.

The small OEM splitter isn't in great shape, are there any nice reasonably subtle carbon options?

Cheers,

Jon

Thanks both. You know sometimes you could really smack yourself? Well it's one of those moments, remembered I'd messed with the clutch pedal so it wasn't hitting the switch any longer. Would be nice if Nissan could have had some other mode of failure other than a very much 'dead battery' symptom for no clutch pedal during startup Still, the old battery looked a bit manky compared to the new unused Halfrauds maintenance-free jobbie I've put in, so I guess something good came out of it.

Are there any procedures to follow for any systems following a battery change?

Off to have a word with myself,

Jon

Hi all, changed my plugs this afternoon - plugs from Zmanalex (great service). Not too tricky, just a bit fiddly. However the car won't now start - blipper works, fuel pump primes, but lights just dim and nothing from the starter motor. Thought it must be the battery (maybe internal light stayed on while doing the work?) so changed it out for a known good charged one, but still exactly the same. Bit stumped, help!

Cheers,

Jon

Cheers both.

Ha A track rod end is a track rod end, it's not like it will fall into 2 pieces at the first corner

Am doing an oil & filter change (Titan Pro 5W30) later today. Having already discovered that the oil dipstick is akin to a chocolate fireguard, what do you all do with a fill - stick the whole 5 litres in or go for the 4.7 specified in the manual?

Cheers,

Jon

Ebay - item number 250867919533. I've ordered a pair, quality looks okay from the pics - hell if it lasts 3 months for that price it's not really any great loss.

I'm not sure how steel discs can set on fire :oP But yes, oem pads would be the way forward. National are pretty well recognised brand.

I thought non-brembo's are 290-ish mm?

Main reason for going for blanks would be insurance, but secondly I personally prefer the durability of blanks.

Cheers,

Jon

OK, they'll not be up to DBA standards, but IME National discs are usually OEM standard. Just to check also that these are the Brembo type (324mm)? Seems a good price to me, but if people have had genuine bad experiences please let me know.

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/FRONT-BRAKE-D ... 0704821007

I don't really want to go grooved/drilled/dimpled.

Cheers,

Jon

Hi all, just trying to get on top of my 2004 Z. There is a little 'vagueness' in the steering that I'd like to solve - typically you can move the steering wheel a degree or two in either direction before the tyres respond, and the car does bumpsteer a little bit. This really robs you of confidence in what the car is doing. There are no knocks are other noises that would make me think banana arm at this point. In previous cars I've had with similar issues, it has always been wear in the track rod - is this typical on the 350? The tracking is a little out so I think a previous owner may have used the kerbs as a parking aid I see I can fit a complete set of tie rods & track rods fairly inexpensively, anyone suggest otherwise?

Cheers,

Jon