JoshC

Cheers all for the replies, plenty of info!

I did look at traffic film removers but have heard you need to be careful how long you leave them sit and as above they also seems to remove wax?

Will have a look at the citrus pre-washes, that may be my easiest option I think but tempted to take a punt at one of those hand pump pressure foam sprayer's and get hold of a decent snow foam. Not expecting perfect results from any of this but just something to keep the car clean-ish in between full washes. Can anyone reccomend a good snowfoam? I'm sure that's a whole new topic in itself mind

You could take your buckets, shampoo, pre wash, mitts and wheel brush to a buy time jet wash. I did this for years and still do now and it's great. £1/£2 ie the minimum to get things going with your pre wash and jet off for your 400 seconds allowing time to also part fill your bucket.

 

Wash the car as you would then normally taking as much time as you need. Then another £1/£2 to then finally jet the car off.

 

You could then pull the car round to the side to dry off or the drive home will do this for you - bingo. My Local BP is just £1 for a few minutes, so £2 is all that's needed.

Cheers mate! This is pretty much what I do at the moment, however my nearest buy time jet wash is a fair trek from me and also being as there's only one machine, the times I have been there it's always quite busy so washing the car down with a mit and buckets and not using the machine, while people are waiting behind me is a bit awkward

I usually use the Morrisons jet wash which is 2 mins from my flat and get like a 12 minute cycle, rinse the car, fill the buckets and then frantically try to cover every panel using the mit and 2 bucket technique before rinsing again and pulling to one side at the end to dry.

Once every month or so I do take the car to the same jet wash, spend a few minutes just getting rid of the heavy dirt and then driving it back to my flat car park and doing a full wash there without having to rush and just rinse with buckets of water over the top, then dry and wax. So really just looking for a better solution to the quick washes which I try to do weekly.

Or maybe something like a pressure foam sprayer like this?

Looks pretty decent in some of the vids and seems to be a good offer on it in halfords atm, although would get a better foam than what it comes with. Anyone have an experience with these? If so any recommended foams to pair them with?

Living in a flat with no access to a hose to regurlaly clean the car properly, I rarely do a proper clean of the car at home so most of the time I tend to take my buckets, mits and towels to a nearby jet wash and try and squeeze a full clean into 15 mins which is a right pain.

So, I was just wondering rather than a full mit wash at the jet wash, is there something like a spray that does the job of a snow foam which I can spray onto the car, leave to soak for a few mins to loosen up the dirt and then simply jet wash it all off? Car is always covered in a couple of layers of wax so most of the muck comes off with just a pressure washer but the stuff on the lower part of the car is a lot more stubborn and usually requires a proper clean to get it off...

I wouldn't expect a level sitting at midway to cause those issues, that's just odd or screams of crap design!

 

Its a Nissan Yep they like to be kept at or very close to the maximum mark

Yeah apparently these cars do like to be fully topped up! Only when someone mentioned it above did I remeber the brake warning light flashing on my old 350 when brake fluid was just slightly low but just seemed a bit more concerning this time that TCS was turning off. Thankfully and easy/free fix it seems as light hasn't come on again since and I have tried to with a heavey right foot, just to be sure

Checked the brake fluid myself and it looked a little low but was still sitting somewhere between min and max marks. Took it into my mates garage to plug it in to see if there were any other codes showing up but turns out it was all down to the fluid, so topped it up and not had an issue since. He was surprised himself that the brake fluid would cause the TCS to turn off. Also pointed out that it possibly means pads could be low, so that's next on the list!

Cheers for the advice all!

I really cannot believe even the worst tyre fitter would damage an abs sensor simply taking wheels off and puttting them on again.

 

Have you checked the tyre pressures on all 4 tyres?

Yes pressures are all fine

 

And you say plenty of tread left on the rears, but how much?

Not measured it but lots left, probably 5mm or so.

 

How many miles have you done with the Goodyears fitted?

Probably on a few thousand miles on the rears

 

Have you had a 4 wheel alignment done?

Did have about a year ago when the MPSS' were fitted but not since fronts have been changed

 

They are two makes of tyres with different construction and compounds and the way the roads are remaining greasy at the current time I can tell you that even having one of the best cars made for traction/grip on 1000mile old MPSS, I'm spinning the wheels a lot more easily these days.������

Yeah would expect the TCS to be workig harder and more slipping in these current conditions but first time I've eve had the TCS actually turn off by istelf and stay off after some heavy footed-ness.

On a few occassions now when I've been a bit heavy footed, usually going up a hill on greasy roads, I've noticed that the handbrake light will flash on for a few seconds then sometimes the 'traction control off' light will come on and stay on until i restart the engine. It's started happening since changing my front tyres from MPSS to Goodyear Eagle F1's. So different tread pattern front and back also fonts are assymetrical, can't imagine that would be the cause but thought I'd mention it anyway.

 

Anyone have any ideas why it's happening?

 

Quite sure you have answered your own question as to the cause and that is not knowing what tyres you ahve on the rear and how worn they are.

The rears still have MPSS tyres with plenty of tread left. Would the mismatch in tyre patterns between front and back have any effect on the traction control system?

First off make sure the brake fluid is at the max level and then get the codes read , lots of things can cause this and low brake fluid is often the cause for the handbrake light.

Dodgy/failing speed/ABS sensor would be a good place to start looking.

Cheers both! Didn't think to check the fluid so will get that done first, failing that will take it in to get it looked at!

On a few occassions now when I've been a bit heavy footed, usually going up a hill on greasy roads, I've noticed that the handbrake light will flash on for a few seconds then sometimes the 'traction control off' light will come on and stay on until i restart the engine. It's started happening since changing my front tyres from MPSS to Goodyear Eagle F1's. So different tread pattern front and back also fonts are assymetrical, can't imagine that would be the cause but thought I'd mention it anyway.

Anyone have any ideas why it's happening?

Sidewall number is a percentage of the width, so for example a 200/50/18 would have a sidewall 100mm tall and a tyre 400/50/18 would have a sidewall 200mm tall (made up sizes, obviously!).

Cheers for clearing that up! Always used to think that it was just a straightforward consistent measurementof the sidewall but read somewhere recenelty thatit was dependent on the width just wasn't exactly sure! Confusing stuff this tyre business!

others will disagree but i'd see no problem in running a 235/40/19 front. you'll be fractionally more understeer and the rear wheels might be allowed fractionally more slip before the tcs cuts in, but I doubt anyone other than a professional vehicle dynamics expert would notice.

 

I wouldn't drop to a 35 profile though, unless you do the same to the rear, and also lower the car to correct for the increased arch gap.

Okay great cheers mate, will have a look at 235/40/19 as an option as well then. the car is already lowered so don't think arch gap would be an issue with the lower profile but would mismtach with the rears like you say. Also, I'm never entirely sure how the dimensions of the sidewalls work but I would guess the front would sit ever so slightly lower on a lower profile and the front scrapes more than enough just on uneven bits of raod already

One more question, are there any other sizes that wpould be suitable for the fronts? 245/40/19 is standard but just wondeing if 245/35/19 or 235/40/19' might do the tick? I don't mind he look of a small amount os stretch or smaller tyre wall but just wondering if it's somethin you wouldn't reccomend?

You might be able to tell I'm trying to save as much money as possible by looking at all options

MPS3 are gash, don't even go there. They're shopping trolley tyres, you don't want them on a sporty car

 

XL tyres are fine, even I can't tell any difference on the road in use.

Will stay clear of the MPS3's then, cheers again!

Also, I can see the tyres that are XL rated a ever so slightly cheaper on some sites, is there a reason for that? Will I notice a difference in the life of the tyre or road noise etc?

Cheers mate, very informative and helpful as always! Would you reccomend the Bridgestone RE070s for the 370 then?

Sadly they're Subaru specific sizes, and a bit hardcore if I'm honest

 

At Eagle F1 prices, I'd still get the MPSS over them. Or maybe try the MPS4?

Ah I see, was wondering why I could only find the RE050s!

Can't find the MPS4 in 245/40/19 but can see some good prices on the MPS3?

Time for a new set of tyres on my fronts, rears still have plenty left but at the moment all 4 tyres at Michelin Pilot Super Sports.

 

Seen the Eagle F1's reccomended on here a few times, can see there are a few types of them (assymetric,2,3 etc). Can anyone tell me which is the preferable or reccomended type and will I notice much difference in perfromace and longevity compared to the MPSS'?

 

Also, looking at some of the discount places online, I've heard it's worth checking the tyre age, can anyone tell me how to do that?

as far as I know the asy 2 f1's is the preferred tyre for grip over the newer ones due to a softer sidewall. check out the Yoko v105s very similar grip but better wet traction.

Cheers bud, will take a look at both those options then!

They're a decent tyre, and in the dry they're the equal of the MPSS. However, in the wet they have nowhere close to the same level of grip, although you do get feedback to let you know this. Currently got them on our Impreza, personally I can't wait until they're shot so I can get some RE070s back on it. Some people love them though, but personally I've been far less than impressed. Better than FK452 et al though.

 

In terms of age, check the sidewall for this:

 

The bit on the right is what you're after, tells you the week and year the tyre was made. Here, it's showing week 9 of 2007.

Cheers mate, very informative and helpful as always! Would you reccomend the Bridgestone RE070s for the 370 then?

Time for a new set of tyres on my fronts, rears still have plenty left but at the moment all 4 tyres at Michelin Pilot Super Sports.

Seen the Eagle F1's reccomended on here a few times, can see there are a few types of them (assymetric,2,3 etc). Can anyone tell me which is the preferable or reccomended type and will I notice much difference in perfromace and longevity compared to the MPSS'?

Also, looking at some of the discount places online, I've heard it's worth checking the tyre age, can anyone tell me how to do that?

Wanting to get this done too, JoshC is yours all done now?

I didn't take the plunge in the end mate, the bumper I'd seen was a baragain price on eBay but need fixing and respraying and then the added costs of arch liners and delivery etc! Kind of wish I'd bought it now but it sold while I was trying to make my mind up!

Cheers all for the advice! I suspected that working in the heat was the most likely cause of the problem. Going to try again soon, hopefully will be able to get use of a grage st some point or if not just hope for a dry but mild day to try again on the drive. Will let you know how it goes

Digging up my old thread rather than starting a new one...

Finally got round to trying out the kit I bought to machine polish the car which was ages ago, just not had a chance really until now. So had a go a couple of weekends back when the weather was nice. Unfortunately couldn't get use of a garage to do it inside so did it on a drive way. Followed this process to prep, only tried it on the bonnet to begin with;

Wash, dry, fallout remover, clay, dry.

Then used a DAS6 Pro with Hexlogic Orange pad and Meguairs Ultra Cut Compound 105, didn't notice a great improvement but tried the next step anyway, Hexlogic white pad with Megs Ultra Finish Polish 205 but still not great improvement, did a 50/50 and not really any reduction in the swirling etc.

I did several passes on each section, about a quarter of the bonnet at a time, with 5 good drops of the product spread in on speed 1 and worked in on speed 5/6.There was a fair amount of residue after each attempt so made sure to wipe the panel down.

Few things I think I may have done wrong but looking for some advice before trying again. Maybe I didn't apply enough pressue? I made sure to keep the pad spinning using the marks I put on the edge of the backing plate but didn't put too much weight on the machine.

There was a couple of layers of wax on the bonnet (I actually used a small amount of dish soap and hot water after washing as I didn't have anything else to hand that I thought might remove it?). Could the wax have prevented it from working?

It was also a pretty hot day so I suspect the compound and polish may have been evaporating before it could do it's work?

Anyone have any clue what it's most likely to be? And if it is due to the wax on the surface any tips for stripping itbefore trying again?

Cheers

Just spotted I posted this in 350 section by mistake. Could someone move it if possible please? Thanks!

Want to for a new shape NISMO bumper to a 2010 GT model. Just wondering if anyone has done this? If so how much work is involved? Will it require a lot of new fittings and new inner arches or anything?

Cheers,

Josh

Daniel, how does the car handle? Yours looks so low. Is it on eibachs? Think eibachs on my car are too low. Exhaust is scraping and the ball joint is sitting lower than the wishbone due to the drop.

 

 

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I've got the eibachs on mine and it hasndles great. The front splitter does scrape on bigger speed bumps which isn't an issue and only on steep ramps into car parks have I ever scraped the actual underside of the car!

I have in stock one which is very similar.

 

Part # 96212-CD000

 

I will get a picture up when I have a minute.

 

Alex.

Hi Alex! I know this was ages ago but don't suppose you have another in stock?

 

I don't think that I have any left in stock Josh, however I will have a look next time I am over at the shop and drop you a PM if I have one.

Hi mate, did you manage to have a check at the shop on the off chance you had one?