Jump to content

TheMacDaddy

Members
  • Posts

    239
  • Joined

  • Last visited

Posts posted by TheMacDaddy

  1. I've been pulled twice in the 370Z, once for a minor, 36 MPH in town, hand-held radar-gun type deal, the other for a very similar situation. He had me bang to rights but wasn't in a car with any speed measuring equipment.

     

    I did the right thing like you - confessed immediately and apologised profusely. He gave me the commensurate talking-to then took a step back from the car and said "Nice car though, it is late a night and there isn't much around. I can see why you did it."

     

    What a nice copper!

     

    Most traffic cops are petrol heads, so they know the score. Just don't drive like a total dick and if you do get caught, have the good grace to take it fair and square.

  2. I was just looking something else up and stumbled across the page in the service manual:

     

     

    ADDITIONAL SERVICE WHEN REMOVING BATTERY NEGATIVE TERMINAL : Special

    Repair Requirement INFOID:0000000004460995

     

    INITIALIZATION PROCEDURE

     

    1. Disconnect battery negative terminal or power window switch connector. Reconnect it after a minute or

    more.

    2. Door switch is OFF (close).

    3. Turn ignition switch ON.

    4. Operate power window switch to fully open the window. (This operation is unnecessary if the window is

    already fully open.)

    5. Continue pulling the power window switch AUTO-UP. Even after glass stops at the fully closed position,

    keep pulling the switch for 3 seconds or more.

    6. Initializing procedure is completed.

  3. If for whatever reason the battery has been disconnected your windows will "forget" where the top is and so won't do the "down on open, up on close" with the doors. The automatic close feature with a single press on the driver's side will also stop working. So they don't catch the frame when you open the doors they still drop, they just don't go back up, so you get the rather frustrating behaviour of the windows just inching their way open as you open and close the doors.

     

    Now from the sound of it your driver's side is calibrated and working but the passenger side isn't, most likely because someone has reset only one side at some point.

     

    To do the reset, start the car, push the window open button until the window opens fully and keep holding it down for 5 seconds. Then pull it up to fully close the window, again holding it up for 5 seconds once closed.

     

    If it works the window should now drop when you open the door and pop back up when you close it.

     

    If that doesn't work then pop her into the dealer for a check. :thumbs:

  4. Just fitted the latest Philips to mine. Pics to follow at the weekend. I think GReddy discontinued their set. The Philips ones are the continuous light type similar to those fitted to the 2012 Audis so you don't see the individual LEDs just a continuous bar of light.

     

    http://www.philips.co.uk/c/car-lamps/led-daylightguide-drl-12-v-6-w-12825wledx1/prd/

     

    I fitted them under number plate just inside the fangs. You need to have the front fascia off then run the cables back to the battery compartment where you can site the control box. You the need to splice into the headlight wiring so they can dim to night mode when the lights are on to stop you blinding people. They're properly bright!

    • Like 1
  5. If you going to remove them in the Winter, heat the popers up first with a hair dryer otherwise you will snap them. :thumbs:

    +1

     

    Did a lot of work on my car this weekend and all of the plastics are a bit scary to work with sub 10 degrees. My cable ties just didn't work - would snap in two if you bent them - I had to heat them up and keep them in my pocket!

  6. God damn it this has just started happening to mine. Noticed it wasn't flush with the front fascia on the passenger side, opened it up and it rubs the bottom of the A pillar on that side. I've only just got the damn thing back from the dealer!

  7. Right, sorted. Car was with Marshalls for three weeks and in the end needed: new spigot bearing, new flywheel, new clutch slave cylinder and pipe.

     

    Luckily all done under warranty, plus the new clutch install for free supplied by Alex.

     

    Just got her back, drives like a dream. Clutch and gear change massively improved. :)

×
×
  • Create New...