Mack

The other thing is that running 95 ron fuel is more of a problem at low rpm rather than high rpm. The VQ engine tend to knock easiest below ~2500rpm at high load.

I guess the key part of Jez's statement is high load.

Putting the foot to the floor at less than 2500 RPM. I've heard cars detonating when people try to move off at very low RPM.

I had both snap when I went for alignment, car ended up stuck on the ramp overnight.

They are quit cheap, might be worth just replacing them.

Looks great!

Loving the smooth look

Something to watch out for, this is from ZMANALEX himself. When you disconnect the brake line from the calliper make sure you put a brake clamp on the rubber line to prevent the master cylinder running dry.

If it runs dry your in a world of problems, the workshop manual for the 350z says drain it but it is incorrect.

I believe they are the same design as HKS.

 

It uses a banjo bolt which requires 2 copper washers. The problem is the surface they seal on it not the same as standard lines. Its annodized like the rest of the caliper.

 

I took mine to a machining shop and got them to sand it dead level to provide a good surface to seal on. 2 Years later no problems.

 

Which ones are you talking about Mack..?? :scare:

HKS Braided lines from Zmanalex.

All the braided lines I've seen for the 350z have the same design.

I believe they are the same design as HKS.

It uses a banjo bolt which requires 2 copper washers. The problem is the surface they seal on it not the same as standard lines. Its annodized like the rest of the caliper.

I took mine to a machining shop and got them to sand it dead level to provide a good surface to seal on. 2 Years later no problems.

If you near Horsham or Abbey go to them. Both have very good reputations

Thanks for the reccomendations, I'll look into them

Gearing up to fit my sump spacer and oil cooler kit and I need some sealant.

AAM reccomend Permatex Ultra Grey which appears to only be available in the states.

Any reccomendations on an alternative?

Any re

I like Fuchs Titan Pro S 5w30 oil myself.

Fuchs titan race 5w30

Any real difference between 5w30 and 5w40?

Thanks for the suggestions, I will look into those oils.

Over the next few days I'm planning to fit an oil cooler and sump spacer.

Im looking for an oil that can cope with the strain and hopefully for a reasonable price.

Any reccomendations?

Its great to hear my guide has been some use.

Cheers for this thread. Was a lot of help apart from I ended up using a 22mm grommet for the washer jet.

Thanks again

Thanks for the feedback, Ive updated the guide with the correct grommet size.

First of all thanks for this guide Mack!

 

Took about 30 minutes in total, however I used one of these to blank. A bit over priced (in my opinion) and took me lots of trial and error with the paint but got there in the end! http://www.ebay.co.u...=item4ac6ade2ba

 

Second of all (as above) I found that the 22mm grommet was better for the washer jet.

 

I turned the one way valve around but would like to disconnect the washer motor. Does anyone know what washer bottle this is on before I start taking the front of the car apart?

Take some photos and I will add them to the guide.

There are 2 bottles, they sit just ahead of the front wheels. I understand one has the pump for the headlight washers and the other the pump for the window washers but I'm not 100% sure. They are connected together by pipes.

If you remove one of the pumps or bottles you will need to blank off the pipe outlets.

Thanks Goodatcrashing,

Underwritten by Chaucer

Just taken out a policy with Sky Insurance.

I spoke to Sam and he beat the best quote by over £40 mods included plus green lighted my planned mods for the year.

In fact he beat my renewal quote by over £100!!

Very happy with the service. It makes a massive difference talking to someone who actually knows about mods, trying to explain to Admiral what an anti roll bar is and then being told a sump spacer is classed as a high risk engine mod almost killed me.

brake cooling kits

Eibach ARB's would be pretty badass!

+1 on both of these

Thats come up really well!

Which dye did you use?

Just bought a complete second hand oil cooler kit for the car.

Well, its missing the extension bolt for the oil filter.

Does anyone know the size for sure? Ive been told 2 different sizes so far.

Thanks

how much would you be selling the zed for? seems a lot of hassle to free up potentially maybe £2k... i think the s2000 would be more to insure and likely to return no better mpg if driven in a way to make comparable power to a zed.

 

Also, better the devil you know - seems foolish to chop a proven reliable car for an unknown when saving money is the intention.

+1

Assuming no unexpected costs on the S2000 the difference will be gone on insurance in a few years anyway.

I considered getting an S2000 until I found out the insurance cost twice as much as the Zed. Lack of traction control on the early models appears to be the reason.

I had the same issue, I wrote about it here

http://www.350z-uk.com/topic/70130-odb2-code-0340-cam-shaft-position-sensor-phase/

It's a quite straight forward DIY job to change.

That video demonstrates how good the cup holder is

Certainly is!

Good to see some more Z's out there on some UK drifting looked good any exterior footage?

Thanks!, no exterior footage but I have a load of stills. Ill get them up on photobucket.

Actually got the handbrake to work...!!!

Its not great in a straight line but fine if the tyre is already loaded from cornering.

You need a bucket seat!

That is for sure, there was plenty of arse sliding on the leather seats

http://youtu.be/XHdC6zVEX0U

My second time there out on the kidney track, really good fun!

I've had something similar before.

You might be able to hammer a socket on and then use an impact gun to get it off. Bare in mine you might wreck the socket. Any socket that will fit on will do, not necessarily the correct size. Don't use normal sockets with an impact gun.

The other alternative is to get a sharp screwdriver or chisel down one side and split the nut. In the process you might damage the thread of the hub studs.

But the best advice is to get to a good garage. they will almost certainly do a better, faster job for just a few quid.