roscopervis

So say your cruising in 6th gear doing 60mph, 2-2.5k rpm and go to slightly accelerate, do get a loud boomy sound in the cabin?

as this is whats happening with the cobra non res

The Falken 452 have had their day. They were on my 350 when i bought it and before I put on the F1 Asymmetrics and I've used them before on a 200sx. They are OK new but are quite noisy and wet grip goes when there's still lots of tread left. As I've said before, beset balance of cost vs performance is the F1's, the MPSS are better balanced in the dry, but more expensive. They are also not as good as the F1's in the wet. My reasoning is that its much easier to get to the limits in the wet so that is a touch more of a priority. The F1's also are pretty good in the dry, won quite a few tests and review well on tyre reviews.

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The Invidia Gemini with Berks I have and I wouldn't say is droney but is louder and deeper than standard when using the throttle. The Invidia totally took away the rasp of the hfc's too compared to the standard exhaust.

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The Falkens aren't a quiet tyre. The quietest tyre I've tried is the Hankooks Ventus Evo V12 K110. They are also better than the Falken 452s in every other respect.

In my opinion , the best balance of performance to cost comes from the Goodyear F1 Assymetric 2 at the moment. The mpss is better in the dry, but the F1s are better in the wet.

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I have a full set of Eagle F1 Asymmetric 2 ready to go on, mainly as I rate their wet performance and let's face it in the uk wet performance is more important than dry in my opinion.

I've just put some on, really very good tyres!

According to tyre reviews website they are bottom of the mid table, but from what you've said you use your car for, they sound fine.

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The guy at Avia does full corner weighting too. He's been involved in Motorsport for years and has built and set up and raced lots of single seaters. That obviously costs more, its basically charged by the hour. Funny thing is though it's just as much an art as a science with him, no print out but he was showing me exactly what he was doing and why he was doing it, using the standard 'book' geometry as a base (1st go) then tweaking it to make it drive better. I just wish I understood it better!

I've been places before that's had all the kit with the print outs, but if the operator didn't know exactly why he was going what he was doing, then it's just a bunch of green boxes on a screen.

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to the OP, how much tread have the fronts got? if theres still a reasonable amount on there, I definitely wouldn't throw away a reasonable tyre - unless its actually dangerous, which I doubt any bridgestone is, even a bad one. Assuming the fronts are ok, i'd try and match them as closely as possible - if you put MPSS on the back you'll induce understeer at the limit, if you put some cheap tyres on the rear you'll get oversteer at the limit. Unless you drive at the limit or are a professional tyre tester, I doubt you'd notice a difference between any of the top 6 brands.

 

When I replace my rear tyres in May im purposely not going to get MPSS - as I only have Hankooks on the front, i'm going to go for something similar on the rear, so for me Goodyear Eagle F1s seem a good bet.

 

To be honest I've actually never had a problem with Falkens, but seeing as I have a bit more money now and have found a good deal on goodyears, i'll try them.

The Goodyear F1's are much closer in terms of performance to the MPSS (actually better in the wet) than what you think so you should probably get some more Hankooks. What Hankooks do you have? I've tried the K110 Evo's and they are much better than Falken 452's. The S2 Evo's are meant to be better again.

It's not lowered, just standard suspension. It's surprising how good standard stuff can feel!

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I took my car to be 4 wheel aligned at Avia Auto's, Bridgend yesterday after fitting new Goodyear F1's all round. The old fronts had worn the insides badly leaving the outsides quite fresh.

The mechanic here is a bit of an alignment legend and knew something was amiss almost immediately. Got the lasers on it and it was all over the shop! That will explain the pulling to the left then! I just thought it was road camber!

Checked the standard settings and he asked how I wanted it to drive. I don't track the car so even tyre wear suits me best. He can set it up how you want it, aggressive for the track or somewhere in between. After some fiddling he was impressed to find that the car's chassis was dead plumb with no set back. I learnt a fair bit as he was doing it. First go and he got it much better and a test run verified that but he wasn't quite happy, so back on the rig. Second go better again. Third go and he was very impressed! He also loves 350's with Invidia exhausts and I could tell he enjoyed working on this car.

All in £80 well spent, car now turns in better, is far more stable, doesn't hunt on the road and doesn't pull to one side. It may still wear the insides of the front tyres a bit as that is the way they are he thinks but should be better. A new level of respect for the car.

Also anyone in south Wales should check out Avia Auto's!

I think this is a very good idea.

Sound wise, having the sub facing the back of the car actually sounds the best, something to do with the wavelength of the sub 80 hz soundwaves emanating from the sub. However, most amps have a phase switch to counter any issues regarding facing.

Cool, so good for a while more then.

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Of course!

Hasn't changed much, exhaust, tyres brakes and servicing basically!

While I remember, when did you last change the plugs?

Will try and get a clip soon, bit embarrassed by how dirty the car is!

Fitted an Invidia Gemini courtesy of Tarmac Sports on Friday to the car as my standard exhaust had the common fault of breaking the weld at the join where the back box pipe meets the mid tube pipe. I already had on the car some Berks HFC's and some DC Sports Headers. This now completes the chain!

With the standard set up with standard cats, you all know what it sounds like, and many know what the Berks add, a metallic rasp which some like and some don't. Myself, I didn't mind it at all really, sounded purposeful if a little high pitched.

With the Invidia fitted, that rasp has now gone completely. It now has a deeper roar, more akin to the original sound, but with added phwoar.

Its not too loud just driving about, its not droney at motorway speed either but it is a great volume on WOT, very satisfying. Next step is an upREV where some ponies will hopefully be liberated.

A very good choice if anyone is thinking about it.

If it said 6 miles left, there was probably 66 miles left! I've found the dte reading very pessimistic.

Redex is fine to use, though I doub't you'd notice any difference.

Just want to say that 3k oil changes are a waste of oil! If the car was a highly stressed turbo engine maybe, but the zed engine isn't. It's not only a false economy, but too many oil changes were shown from analysis of used oil over on sxoc that too many oil changes may strip the linings of pipes. Recently changed low mileage oil had much higher silicon levels than brand new oil which could only come from the engine. 9k miles on a good synthetic oil would be no problem.

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Its possible to get over 500 miles out of a tank, if driving economically on the motorway and ignoring the pessimistic DTE number, if you can average more than 28.4 mpg. I've done 515 before I chickened out once. On mixed runs I usually get about 420.

My Berks have always failed the emmisions part of MOT since new. Annoying. Also thinking of going to a silenced decat option, or maybe a Motordyne XYZ with cat.

If we are talking about cold starts here, which I presume we are, then pretty much any car runs richer at this phase to aid the cold starting. Back in the old days of carbs bore was was much more prevalent due the the imprecision of the fuelling, particularly with the choke.

ECU controlled engines are much more tightly controlled, but still require an electronic form of choke, which does introduce more fuel which can in turn lead to bore wash. The level of bore wash these days would be much lower than with carbed cars but can still happen.

I have looked in lots of modern cars petrol tanks and none have crud in. They all look spotless and as new. The crud stories are from the old days.

I quite often do it and still have never managed to get more than 69 litres in. Very underoptimistic gauge. On a run over 500 miles is quite easily do-able, based on an 80 litre tank.

For anyone who misses the other post, getting in and driving straight away is the best method. Leaving it idle doesn't warm the engine evenly and causes things like bore wash which in the long run, is much worse for the engine.

If we had turbo's then cool down after a drive will be beneficial, but we (mostly) don't so no worries there!

I don't think the Zed is particularly heavy. However, all the control inputs - the steering, clutch and gearbox, along with the lazy throttle travel make it 'feel' heavy to drive. Other cars are engineered to feel light, light gearshift, zingy throttle etc and that adds to the perception.

I'm just about to pass 50k. At this rate I'll be at 100k in 10 years.

I doubt I'll keep it that long!