craigmdennis

Congrats/commiserations. It looks fantastic! In a little better condition than mine. I couldn't get the original wheel colour matched when I had them redone ~5 years ago and yours look so much nicer.

Now mine needs a new coat of paint and the wheels refurb-ing again. I'll try and get it booked in and take some photos. It sure is fun to drive though (hadn't driven it all pandemic).

I have a 350Z GT4 manual with factory fitted Nismo body kit.

It's done ~110k and been off the road for the past 2 years.
Never been in an accident.

It's currently undergoing MoT and Service before I sell.

A few things have been done over the years:
- Invidia Gemini Cat-Back Exhaust - Rolled Stainless Steel Tip

- Berk High Flow Cats (passes emissions tests)

- JWT Popcharger

- Torqen Aluminium undertray

- 380RS Pedal

- Braided brake lines

- Sony Android Auto/Apple Car Play head unit (original included)

- Emergency brake flasher

- Auto closing passenger window (imported from Japan)
- New temperature control module (2019)

- Bonnet Dampers

- Spare battery

- Uprated rear boot struts

- Uprated boot poppers

- Boot Cargo Net

- Black badges

- Only 1 key. But it's a flip key (modified by someone on here).

The attached photo is a few years old. I'll take more and list it when I get it back from the garage.
Let me know if you're interested.

I have a Kuro GT4 that I have just put back on the road to sell (110k miles). Currently in the garage having a service and MoT. The howmanyleft site seems to show there are a lot still left! I would have expected more to be SORN during the pandemic.

Ordered a pair! Let's hope they work. I tried adding plastic washers to mine and it made a little difference but still not enough with the spoiler weight.

4 minutes ago, ZMANALEX said:

You will find the bonnet pull cable under the O/S/F wing at the top.

 

Once you locate it just give it a good tug and the bonnet should pop open.

Thanks! I managed to unstick the door by banging on it like a mad man.
Now I can buy a new battery and then take off the door card and replace the actuator (or just clean the mechanism).

I have a bit of a challenge. 

My battery is flat AND the lock mechanism on the drivers side has failed (so turning the key does nothing).

The door lock has failed before and I've managed to open it by winding the window down and putting a rod down. 

But now the passenger side won't open because the battery is flat, I'm not sure what to do. 

Can I pop the bonnet without using the release under the steering wheel? 

Any and all ideas welcome. 

I fitted mine over the weekend and it took about 45 mins (me being cautious... but also me having to take everything apart again because I didn't test enough).

Instructions were very clear and the only challenge was connecting to the cable behind the door speaker. I have a 2005 GT4 DE and the wire colours in the instructions matched exactly.

Here it is working  

A couple of things to note:

• Be careful with the grey wires as there's a thick and a thin. Follow the instructions and double check.
• The recommended place to mount the box (behind a cable) caused the connector to get pushed out slightly when the door panel went back on... so it worked when I tested it and not when the door panel went back on (and I'd screwed everything back together). So just be careful to orient the connector away from the cable.
• And instead of poking a hole through the paper gromet, I had a more robust rubber one that fit so used that.

Awesome @cs2000! Received today and has everything I need. Looking forward to fitting them. 

This thread has been going a long time so I'm glad the torch has been passed and we're actually getting some of these things in our hands. 

1 minute ago, cs2000 said:

I have seen plenty of people in recent posts say they want one. But for ease, let’s start a fresh list. So. Anyone that wants one of these, please stick your name below and il get back to you as soon as everything is tested and working.

I'll take one please.

It might be be easier to use Google Forms or something?

I've just replaced the standard set with some that have the passenger auto-up/down switches and so have a set of original 2005 window switches up for grabs.

I'm not sure which years they will fit (all of them?).

They're in good condition (if a little faded).

Paid $70US for the new set, plus £18 import tax so offers close to £60 would be ideal.

I tried this yesterday but the car won't start, just turns over. I assume this means the immobiliser isn't reading the transponder in the new key

Swapped back to the old key and all fine. 

Looks tidy. I wish I'd thought to do this when I had some body work repaired. Instead I opted for black badges.

I did this today but have a mirror with a compass (why not) which needed calibrating. 

1. Press and hold the power button until a number is shown. This is the compass zone.

2. Press the power button to increment the number to 9. This is the zone for the UK

3. Press and hold the power button until a C is shown.

4. Now find a safe place and drive in a circle

The mirror will automatically show the direction when it's finished calibrating.

1 hour ago, dan8e11 said:

Thanks for the reply Craig, just looking into the invidia Amongst a few others. Very confusing for a noob, don't want to fork out near a grand and the car sound like a chavs

I did the same research you're doing.

It's expensive but boy does it sound good. I actually said to a friend that my new exhaust was quieter but more refined. Less "boy racer". 

There are a few videos on YouTube showing the Gemini with HFCs. Drive-bys and Dyno runs. 

If you stick with non-resonated you should be fine. I've got the Invidia Gemini (resonated) and it's quieter than my previous (Buddy Club) cat back but sounds more refined. No experience with Cobra though. I also have high flow cats. 

Even the OEM system should sound better (louder) if you have HFCs.

Definitely sounds like an issue with the ribbon connector. Removing the ribbon to get the centre console off (and having the key turned in the ignition) gives this exact behaviour.

I'm thinking about selling mine so this gives me hope that one day I'll be back in the group.

On 13/08/2016 at 14:04, GrahameJ said:

The solution is to use a 4mm screwdriver to push back a clip inside the mirror stem, through the hole at the bottom of the stem, allowing the mirror to be slid upwards off the mount bonded to the windscreen.

In practise this did not quite work, but after using the screwdriver, a gentle tap with a hide mallet upwards got mine off

 

The clip on mirror:

 

Screwdriver in the slot:

 

Bonded windscreen mount:

This worked for me but needed a smaller screw driver. Replacement has a screw hole but seems to be secure enough.

Do you think that mean the 06 should be compatible? I might order a set and give it a whirl. I can always return them. 

I have a 2005 GT4 (DE) which has the cruise control steering switches on the right, as well as the Bose stereo controls on the left.

Both sides have worn pretty badly and I'm looking for replacements.

I see Torqen sell the cruise control (right hand) side:

https://www.torqen.uk/nissan/350z/body-styling/interior/10905-350z-de-nissan-oem-steering-wheel-ascd-cruise-control-switch-03-05-25550-cd000.html

But I can't seem to find a replacement left hand side module.

Can anyone offer any advice? All my searches turn up steering control adapters.

There is a complete 2006 set but the controls are different on the left hand side compared to the 05 GT4:

https://www.torqen.uk/nissan/350z/body-styling/interior/10906-350z-nissan-oem-steering-wheel-ascd-cruise-control-radio-control-switch-06-coupe-06-09-convertible-25550-cf40a.html

Could refurbishment be an option?

Thanks

Also interested in one of the kits for sure.

6 minutes ago, Ekona said:

Emissions haven’t changed though, they’re still the same. 

Yeah, not sure how the OP's question relates to the new rules. But regardless, HFCs can fail the emissions test unless they're hot (from what I've read on this forum anyway; I have no direct experience).

Yeah that's not in the new but is related to emissions. I have some on order but have heard that they need to be hot to function optimally. Will make sure I drive around a bit before the next test. 

https://www.gov.uk/government/news/mot-changes-20-may-2018

Looks like it's just emissions for diesels.

On 4/1/2018 at 18:12, Liamm56 said:

How did you get it all wired up? Ive currently got a wire from the back of the new head unit not plugging in and the harness doesnt fit any of the connectors?

Sorry about the delay. I followed this guide: 

As well as the volume increase one (which I think is linked from the one above): 

I hope you got it all working.