cb350

By the way, that's the weird thing - the exhaust sounds fine, it didn't sound like it was blowing to me, and very quiet at idle and motorway speeds.

Must admit, I did try tightening it again today without success (seemed to be really tight), but you must be right. Thanks for all the replies, the rubbers seemed OK but that middle mounting is going through at a weird angle and pulling the rubber down, so I was intending to try to bend the hanger a bit to get it nice and straight - I didn't know you could get urethane mounts, sounds like that could be good idea so long as I can get that middle hanger fitting better.

I fitted a Toyosports exhaust last weekend, I know the fitment on these can be a bit dodgy.. but sadly I have a very limited budget at the moment and for the price (eBay - £230) I was extremely impressed with it. Fitment was slightly off, but it wasn't too bad Anyway, suddenly today I'm having trouble getting over speedbumps - it's scraping really badly in the middle. Got underneath the car, and it looks like it's dropped or something. It's resting on the crossmember towards the back of the car. I tried to physically lift it up, and it's rock solid in place. Using a long lever to lift the exhaust, it raised about half-an-inch before it wouldn't move any more, I really seems quite resolutely fixed in position, but couldn't have been this low when I fitted it to the car. I've uploaded some pics. I don't remember the OEM exhaust being anywhere near that low - in fact I thought the crossmember used to be the lowest point on the car. Has anyone had trouble with a new exhaust shifting over time? Would it be possible that the odd fitment was putting stress on the y-pipe (which is still original, 12 years old!), and it's sort of sagging at that point? What do people think, should I swap out that y-pipe as well, or do I need to adjust the hangers at the back of the car? If my bank balance was up to it, I'd obviously have got a more expensive exhaust, so aside from the likely correct answer of 'get a better exhaust', does anyone have any thoughts or opinions on what's going on? I'm just a little confused by how rock solid it is, like even if I adjust the hangers, it's going to be really difficult to actually push the pipe up any further than it is now.. but then it's clearly dropped, because I wasn't grounding on speedbumps earlier in the week. Cheers, Chris.

Any idea if this exhaust would fit a JDM 350Z? I know the exhaust is supposed to be different on JDM, but I can't find anything about exactly how it's different. Cheers, Chris.

Is this still for sale? Any ideas if it would fit a JDM? I know they're supposed to be different, but I can't work out exactly how. Thanks, Chris.

Thanks, tried both - no joy. £70 from Nissan seems a bit expensive but mine's definitely had it!

Hi all, I'm looking for the seat switch, driver's side for a 2003 350Z - JDM (don't think that makes any difference though?). It's the switch that controls the seat position and recline angle. Cheers, Chris.

Shame! The light that's going foggy is also suffering from condensation issues now the sun is out, never seen it before but I don't think these lights have ever been opened up. What's the difference on the facelift lights compared to the old ones? (I have an '03 350z) Would really love to get lights with all-black interiors but if they are going to get condensation then it's not worth it

I suppose I should just ask the seller directly.. I wondered if it might be possible to re-angle them but I guess these things are all moulded in place.

One of my headlights is misting over and I've been considering all options while fixing them, just seen these on eBay - hadn't noticed them before: http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/2003-2004-200 ... 038wt_1027 I'm not 100% sure on the styling, but I think they look better than the other dual halo lights being sold on eBay. Thoughts? Cheers, Chris.

-- now I'm confusing myself - the amp is behind the driver's seat. Been reading too much stuff on this, it's all getting mixed up in my head!

I agree with you on the FM transmitter - haven't tried the tape hack yet but may do it soon, I guess it's worth a try at least to see what it sounds like.... what I'm looking at doing is fitting either a Windows or Android-based system into the cubby space and running audio out of that and into the Bose system somehow. My other thought was I wondered if it was possible to tap directly into the Bose amp, which I believe is somewhere in the boot. It would mean I'd have two volume controls though, but at least the sound quality would be as good as possible with the standard Bose speakers/amp and whatever my source is - I haven't read anywhere of anyone trying it though, so I don't know if it's really possible. I'll find out soon enough BTW, just for reference, I did find this a while ago, which shows a pretty complex solution: http://www.digital-car.co.uk/forum/showthread.php?9595-350Z-Install Page two shows how he got the aux-in and steering wheel controls working (note he had a JDM 350Z). The stereo is basically wired into the car's internal network, so communication needs to be established via some sort of networking protocol. I'd be interested in doing this, but I can't get hold of the guy that posted it. Would love to see some android-based HUs on the market, would certainly open up a lot of customisation options.

Yeah, I'm pretty stuck at the moment. I also wanted to keep the OEM look and wasn't keen on the tape hack... but it does seem to be the easiest/simplest solution. I think it's either that or an FM transmitter I'm afraid

I have one, you do need the extra port which isn't on the UK models. I have a JDM '03 Bose, which has the right socket but I never got it to work properly. The radio would only very occasionally connect to it. GROM Audio were pretty helpful and sent me quite a few firmware updates but they never got it working properly - it does seem harder than it should be to do this!

Hmm.. yeah, I did - couldn't find it! Will have another look, obviously didn't look hard enough

Hi all, One of the switches on my seat has stopped working - I can still run the seat backwards and forwards, but the tilt no longer does anything. If I keep switching it, eventually it'll move, but I've had more success tilting it back than forwards, leading to a very relaxed-looking driving position! Does anyone have any idea how I can get to the wuring to test the switch and the feeds to/from the switch? Guessing it's a dodgy connection somewhere but having a lot of difficulty finding any wires! Thanks, Chris.

Hi, I'm thinking about getting this.. I have a half-built carputer so either going to carry on with that or get one of these. Couple of questions: 1. Android 2.3 - do you think there's any chance it could be upgraded to 3, if not now then at a later date? I realise from an app point-of-view that it isn't really that much of an issue, but I have 3.2 on my Xoom so would be nice to get something similar 2. The buttons - are they just standard momentary push-on buttons with two connections? What functions do the buttons perform? The reason I ask is I might consider mounting the buttons elsewhere or using different buttons just for person preference, really.. but it depends what type of buttons are needed and what they actually do. Great work with this, it looks really good. Thanks! Chris.

I always think with stuff like this it always depends on your personal preference - if you're still playing CDs in the car, then get something with a CD player. If you don't, then spend the dosh on something that doesn't have a CD player. Personally, I stopped buying CDs years ago when I transferred all my CDs to MP3. But just recently, I've started buying CDs again. The main reason is that I keep finding that I had stuff on my ipod or a laptop or somewhere and I can't find it anymore. Now I find there's been a whole bunch of albums released in the past 5-6 years that I never bought but wished I had because I either just downloaded individual singles or I changed my hardware so many times in those years I can't be sure what hard drive it's on out of the whole bunch I've got lying around the house. So now I'm making sure I've got the actual CDs so I have an uncompressed hard copy - and I've always been much more careful with my CDs ... probably still wouldn't buy a CD player for the car though, I had too many bad experiences with them not working properly or scratching the CDs. CDs won't go away though, in much the same way that vinyl never really disappeared.

lol sorry Husky I obviously didn't read your post properly! Seems to be the way to go; they're so cheap I would just do that rather than risking anything and you could put it all inside a box to keep everything neat. As a side-note, I reckon this issue has come about due to some changes by Apple to the charging circuitry. I reckon early iPods could take 12V, I have found something on the web previously that states that Apple's technical documents refer to 12V for the charging circuit. So, I think at one point you could run 5V - 12V without an issue, then somewhere along the way they just figured it'd be easier if the power regulation was done on the charger side rather than in the ipod/iphone itself - hence the reason why some people have reported 12v runs just fine. Chris.

well, an UpRev tune sounds like a good idea whatever! I'm over in America at the moment so I'll probably see about doing that when I get back. both my digital gauge and analog gauge read the same speed - that's one of the odd things about it - how can they read the same, yet the trip counter on the centre console be so different? I'm wondering if proper a UK speedo would help, but if that resets the odometer, is it easy to reprogram it? Or am I creating a whole lot of hassle for not a lot of reason?

So, to just make sure I understand this correctly - I could replace my KM/H speedo with an MPH speedo and, if I remove the module which amends my original KM/H speedo, it'd work correctly? I guess I have a couple of questions about this: 1. What would happen to my odometer? Would it still read the correct number of miles, or would it incorrectly assume that my miles were kilometers and then convert it? 2. I understand the same module that modifies the signal to the speedo also delimits the top speed of the car. Would this put the limiter back on and, if so, how would I get the delimiter removed?

Really? wow, I thought maybe something was going a bit wrong! If the trip computers use the same sensor for measuring distance, I'd have thought it would be impossible for them to read differently BulletMagnet: I'm not sure about the speedo gauge, but I'll check to see if it's possible. You can do it with the centre console gauges though and I've already done that. Really I'm wondering what the process is for conversion from kmh to mph. If there is something in the car I can either replace or recalibrate, then I'd like to do that. Against GPS, the speedo seems to over-read by nearly 10% and this seems to tie in with the over-reading on the speedo's trip counters. I know that speedos do often over-read, but I think this is a bit excessive, especially considering I have one trip counter which seems to read more accurately, I'd just like everything to read by the same amount. Chris.

The 350z has a number of different trip counters. I've been monitoring the trip counter on the speedo alongside the trip counter on the centre console gauge pod. What I've noticed is that the trip counter and odometer are actually going up at a slightly faster rate than the trip counter on the centre console. I'm not even sure how this is possible, I assumed they'd all just use the same speedo pulse, but I think what's going on is the centre console gauge takes the speed reference directly, whereas the speedo and odometer, which were originally in kilometers, have been converted to miles and somehow this is out of calibration. I've been reading on the web and haven't found a conclusive answer about how the conversion to MPH for a JDM 350z is done. Some say there is a box under the steering wheel, others say it is modified directly on the car's CPU. Does anyone know how the conversion is done, and if it would be possible to calibrate the trip counters so they all read correctly? Essentially I think my odometer is going up too quickly, so I'm rather keen to put that right! Chris.

USB runs at 5V and considering the ipod charges directly from USB without the need for any sort of transformer, I assume you'd need 5V. Maybe your best bet would be to buy one of those cigarette USB chargers, dismantle it and then use the guts of it to feed power to the ipod.

looks good! What fascia adapter did you use? It looks like quite a good fit.