AlexZ

You will be fine dude... This is my first rwd car and i'm still alive although its only been two weeks. lol

Alexz

Haha, I posted it twice because i'm important.....

I guess there still the O.E plugs....Iridium plugs are ment to burn more effecient then standard. I'll whip mine out at weekend and check the gapping...

Thanks for the info dude.

Alexz

Looks like Denso is the first choice...I normally use NGK Iridium....but I will select Denso when the time comes.

Good luck mate , as above dont rush and buy the first one. Keep ths scooter cause the fuel costs a lot. I've owned mine for 2 weeks now and it costs just to get to work haha...Going to work and local running around i'm getting 19-23mpg...the 23 is with cruise control on..I dont drive it hard, normally change about 2000rpm...

With all said above I love it and wouldnt change it back to my Celica.

Just take your time, look for repairs in the panels, listen for the rear cv joints and check the clutch...Check the oil level before they start it up etc...

If there genuine panels there should be little chassis sticker on each of the bolt on panels...This should show they havent been swapped from facorty or because of a crash.

Alexz

Well done matie, you will enjoy it 100%... Nice move with the fuel, cost me £72 to fill up before I even got mine home lol...

Good advise people, I need to treat my skin to some tlc aswell.

Evening matie, yeh the one speak thing is normal... You soon get use to that..

Not sure on the 123456789 dailing ...If you got the Nissan handbook theres some details in that for setting it all up etc. This may help man.

Your torque settings are below mate

Alexz

As above, i'm new to the hole rwd thing and I keep mine on all the time. I did turn it off in the wet on the first day I picked her up. I wheel span from the middle of the intersection onto my estate, into seconds gear past the Fire Station Headquarters then wanted my mum and some toilet roll. The switch have never been touched again.

Alexz

Unless your 100% on the softtop version I would test drive the couple. Again I think you'll get a newer UK GT spec for the cash that dealer wants.

You choice at the end of the day, all the Z's are ace mate...Just buy the best you can and if your not 100% sure you can always get a RAC or AA inspection for peace of mind.

Alexz

Ive just bought a 04 plate 350 GT. This had a new clutch fitted (I have the Nissan paperwork) in April and my clutch pedal is high. I'm sure I have read somewere they auto adjust so I would imagine the pedal height has always been that high. If you fancy that car get one an open road put it in 6th, round 35mph and roll on. If the clutch is going to slip it will be under all that torque..

Hamster one here as a 54plate GT just like mine...my exhaust seems to be a bit louder than his...Not sure why...maybe age or just a different supplier to Nissan at that time.

I agree with above, go for the one you feel most happy with there all mint cars apart from filling it up every week

Alexz

Can't find the torque setting on the information I have here, I may have it on Autodata at work. I'll keep you posted dude.

Alexz

As Sunset said I would get the correct torque setting and maybe use temporary locktight. You can buy it online..It keeps the bolt solid but will be eaiser to remove if you ever have to...Goolge it dude...

I'll have a quick look for the torque settings for you.

Alexz

Welcome to the forum mate....First class choice of mota.

Looking forward to this one...

Hamster got his wish to , now wish me rich and hot ladies everywere little man.

Alexz

so where are they normally stored?

Dont think theres an actual place mate, mine was in the ash tray when I bought my car

Some places like Halfords do locking wheel nut removal tools. All it does is screw onto the locking nut in reverse, the tighter you turn the more it digs in. The only troulbe is if the locking nut takes most the room in the wheel hole the tool wont fit

Other than that a specialist would be the best way imo.

Not to scare you but on one off my older cars we have to oxiceterline (sp) the locking nut cause it was high tesile (sp) steel and hard as nails. This cost me a new rear hub and bearing lol.

Alexz

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Looking at your droplinks i'd say they aren't that old and thats why they were easy to take off. If they were the originals you'd have a nightmare of a job to get them off. I suggest that if they are creaking and look like they've been on the car since day one, then buy a replacement set, as they would of worn out.

Evening Sunset, they were tight in the body but nothing my 1/2 inch ratchet and 32mm spanner couldn't sort lol. They only look this clean cause I cleaned them up while they were off the car . Touch wood they havent made a sound since and they didnt seem to have any play in them. The job itself is very easy and if they do start to make a noise again I will just swap them for some new ones.

Alexz

Quality choice mate, I'm also new and love every min of driving it fast or slow.

Alexz

Did he offer you more once the GT status was agreed lol?

Alexz

looks amazing mate i have the same drop link problem but not sorted it yet

 

Just jack the back end up mate, slide some axel stands under there and whip the out. There one 14mm bolt on the drop link through the stabiliser bar and two 14mm bolts holding the barcket to the car. Mine were well tight and I needed the 1/2 ratchet with a 32mm spanner on the end lol..

 

It takes an hour max start to finish.

 

Alex

 

nice one mate i might go hunting for torque values as im a paranoid perfectionist

jacking the car up is a bad bit for me, never know if ive got it right

If you look at this image you can clearly see the bolt I wrote about in the pm...

According to the info I have all the bolts you undo should be tighten back to between 50=60N.M

Alexz

looks amazing mate i have the same drop link problem but not sorted it yet

 

Just jack the back end up mate, slide some axel stands under there and whip the out. There one 14mm bolt on the drop link through the stabiliser bar and two 14mm bolts holding the barcket to the car. Mine were well tight and I needed the 1/2 ratchet with a 32mm spanner on the end lol..

 

It takes an hour max start to finish.

 

Alex

Is it possible to lube the droplinks in-situ? Or is removal a must?

To be honest mate what little time it takes to remove the links when the car is in the air I would advise taking them off. Theres a lot less chance off you getting anything in your eyes if there out and on a bench or wheelie bin like me lol

I guess you could do them on the car, but it would defo have to be in the air.

Alexz

Chain Lube sounds a good idea, cos I got some of that in my garage and didn't think of using that on my groaning droplinks.

I got some spray grease in the shed and found the chain lube while looking for it . You know what chain lube is like, takes some serious moving.

Alexz

looks amazing mate i have the same drop link problem but not sorted it yet

Just jack the back end up mate, slide some axel stands under there and whip the out. There one 14mm bolt on the drop link through the stabiliser bar and two 14mm bolts holding the barcket to the car. Mine were well tight and I needed the 1/2 ratchet with a 32mm spanner on the end lol..

It takes an hour max start to finish.

Alex

That's really good work you got done today. Hope you get the weather & time to get it how you want.

Cheers mate, I'll keep you posted with the progress on cleaning.

Alexz

so far so good, u talk like u got big plans lol wots next on the list? and ur long term plans?

No big plans mate, I'm just a man who likes the genuine paint as best as possible no matter how old the car is. I'm not a big fan of repaints or bodywork really.

I would like a little carbon here and there when I'm happy with the main bodywork condition. For now its just making the car mine with cleaning etc.

Alexz