Jammy007

Where is the 55 plate roadster?

I know of a guy that works at iggesund in Workington with a silver roadster. Used to have a sunset coupe

Even better, the more the merrier and will be nice to catch up eventually Martin

Welcome mate. That makes 3 of us now within 20 miles of each other. Plus Martin, obviously can't leave him out.

So tell us a bit about your car (year, colour etc) and if you have any plans for it

Chesterfield thats good enough for me! At least it proves that they have helped people in the past with no problems with regards to the Rays alloys.

I'll still ask as a double check while I'm on the phone nearer the time and report back if there's anything to worry about

My Insurance was £800 last year (first year of zed ownership). Renewal is around £720.

Went on confused and guess who's sat at the top of the page, you guessed it, admiral. With a price of £526 for exactly the same insurance as my renewal.

Thats the bit that gets me!

People must be mad to just let their insurance automatically renew.

Will Admiral let me sign up as a new customer as I now have a quote sitting in my admiral account?

Cheers Rich

Just worth asking on the phone when I take out the policy thats all.

I was thinking about the trading standards route as they're surely mis-selling the insurance and would open up the proverbial can of worms a bit like the PPI mis-selling and things.

It just says it would be replaced with a similar make and model. It doesn't say that they'd also give you one with the same pack (GT pack) or optional extra's (Rays alloys or Nismo).

I'm not saying I'm correct and would love to be proved wrong as I'm wanting to go to Admiral for my insurance. Other than Elephant (about £30 more expensive) then the rest are coming in at nearly £400+

This is taken from page 13 of the Direct Line Insurance Policy

Accessories – parts or products specifi cally designed to be fitted to your car. We may treat some accessories as modifications, so please tell us about any alterations to your car.

and this from page 14

Market value – the cost of replacing your car with another of the same make and model and of a similar age and condition at the time of the accident or loss. If you bought your car at lower price than would normally be found in UK trade guides, we will reduce the market value accordingly.

There is an option on the site to change the model from a Nissan 350z coupe to a GT coupe but reading the T&C's I'm not sure how much this will help?!

Link to the policy document

https://uk2.directline.com/motor/carpolicydoc.pdf

Did a quick search and found nothing and I'm just busy reading the policy to see if this still applies as its taken from an old thread on the mini2 forums.

But to cut a long story short its about Admiral and I'd assume it would apply to Bell, Direct Line and possibly even Tesco (not sure about the last one though).

They insure the car fine and dandy but when it comes to claiming they are only willing to pay out against the standard base model. So that means us owners with a GT pack or the optional Rays alloys, or Nismo kit which is factory fitted will only get a insurance payout against a 350z Base model.

Like I said it may need checked. I'm a bit peeved off with that to be fair if thats the case as the zeds been insured with Admiral for the past 12 months and is up for renewal very shortly.

Here's the thread on the mini forums:

http://www.mini2.com/forum/finance-insurance/41373-elephant-co-uk-insurance-warning.html

Just with that many people finding Admiral to be the cheapest it would be a shame if someone on here got caught out by them.

from what you just said makes me think the injectors. that giving it a good run has dislodged something and spat it into tthe injector which is now partially blocked. although from what you said about the noise then the vac hoese would be the first check.

Give that man a medal.... knackered injector. Replaced now and running better than ever

Thanks guys, just the standard issue leaky sunroof to fix when I find the time. Thats another crossed off on a very long list that I have at the moment

Woohoo I've finally done it, its alot easier than I thought, although still haven't put the screw back in place behind the door handle until i get a magnetic screw driver. Thanks for the help guys works a treat

Where it says in one of the guides to remove the screw under the door handle, careful - don't lose it.....

What happens if you lose it

i.e. thinking you can get your fingers in to retrieve it and it drops down behind the door card.

Can it be retrieved upon removal of the door card? and if so I'm assuming it won't be able to fall out until the door card is removed.

I'm assuming everyone used a magnetic screw driver and socket for removal of the screws on the passenger side door?!

I'm giving up today anyways...... after calling Mike, Mr. Impossible and now this!

Haha my apologies! don't know where Mr. Impossible came from

Wow, its the full door card off on the inside jobby. Here's me thinking I could do it on my 30 minute dinner break just by undoing one screw and sliding it off the door.......

Oh well that'll fill some time if it stays fair on saturday.

Thanks everyone and big thanks to mr impossible for the heads up on the service manual

Does anyone know how to remove the window guide that runs along the top of the passenger side door (bottom of the window when its closed).

I can only see one screw when the door is open & I've been told it slides off, but I've pulled it quite hard and it hasn't budged. The replacement part I've got doesn't have another other fixing holes so what the hells keeping mine on the car?

Looks as if its maybe tucked under the black plastic fascia for the wing mirror and if so then how do I remove this?

Cheers,

Jamie

Already signed up to the cliosport forum and although its helpful (after trawling through the posts) no one seems to be able to put their finger on this problem (although there is about 3-4 cars on there at the moment having identical problems to the gf's).

Thanks though

Sunset - The coils aren't seperate on her clio, its just one pack which houses all 4 coils. What do you mean when you say it could be lower down than that?

rtbiscuit - thanks, knew you'd be along shortly. I think it may have to be a visit to the stealers, but worth trying the easy bits myself. Like I said i'm going to pop in at dinner and see if they can shed some light on it.

speedy - yeah know exactly what you're getting at, I'll give this a go aswell, will do no harm

All the garages don't seem to be able to give me an answer.

Its been in the garage who have tried HT leads, Coil Pack & a heat sensor and its done absolutely nothing. They then took it to another idependant who has just bought all singing all dancing renault diagnostic equipment which in turn showed absolutely nothing up.

If I take it to renault to diagnose will they just come back with exactly the same story that the second garage came back with, that nothing has shown up on their diagnostic equipment and charge her £63+vat? Or do they have unique testing equipment that WILL show something up?

Somewhere in the conversation between the garage and my gf, they mentioned that its got a pressure leak somewhere and they think that is down to either the inlet manifold being cracked or the gasket. I think the third one they mentioned was a valve being down. Does this sound feasible?

Are there any checks you can do to pin point a vacuum leak?

Try front discs & pads at a total of £511 including VAT but excluding labour and £1300+ for a flywheel!!! (not the whole clutch kit).

I honestly think he thought I was going to say "yeah just do the work, when can I book it in".

Just out of curiosity the RROD didn't appear after installing the dashboard update released about 2 weeks ago did it?

Mine and another blokes in the office both got RROD after installing it. Luckily mine was under the 3 year warranty (actually wasn't, it had expired about 10 days earlier) but still got the free fix and its winging its way back from the warehouse in germany as we speak.

Replacement xbox aswell instead of my own back, don't know if thats a good thing or not as its probably a second hand one (can't imagine it being a spanker).

Chris thanks for that site, alot better than the renault one I was looking at. Made a couple of posts in there, see what feedback I get. Seems to be a few similar problems, so will keep my eyes peeled.

I'm booking it in at a independant to get it diagnosed rather than mess about with it myself. Just like to have an idea before it goes in incase they try to pull a fast one.

A leak in a vacuum hose isn't as uncommon as you may think and its one of the things all over the renault forums.

Car doesn't get much use to be fair and is only on 30mph roads more than anything. Used in short bursts rather than long runs so yes it probably doesn't get time to even warm up properly.

The problem first occured after a long run on A roads at 60-70mph, about 45 minutes driving.

Cheers for the input guys & coops if you could let me know what your mate thinks then that would be appreciated.

P.S. No offence to the renault forums, but this one knocks spots off it, hence why i've posted this up here rather than in the renault ones!

Girlfriends Clio again guys.......

Not even gonna rant on about it and if we could afford to get rid of it , trust me, we would! Just with buying the new house & possible parts I need for the zed at the moment, everything seems to be mounting up!

The car is a Clio Mark II Phase II (2003) - Car had a service less than 12 months ago and has only done 6000 since then. The car isn't really running lumpy but when it comes to slowing down for junctions etc then it feels like its going to stall.

Changed the leads & coil pack and its only slightly cured the problem.

She's having to keep it on high revs at junctions / road ends or even trying to park to stop it stalling.

Car doesn't struggle on pick up & doesn't sound as if its running on 3 cylinders.

One of the strange things is that there is a noise coming from around the engine, towards the back, which sounds like the sucking of air.

I've read certain things like the TDC (top dead centre) sensor & the Idle Control Valve. Also read that it could be a dirty throttle body.

As I'm not massively clued up on car mechanics can anyone give me their opinion on what they think could be causing this?

Thanks for the heads up

Anyone know where else I could get this part?