DIY Spring INstall - Lowering Springs

[Kev946]

Well just fitted a set of RS-R Ti2000 lowering springs. These lower the car by 0.6 inch front and rear.

 

I must say this is one of the easiest spring installs I've done. It can be done by any competent diy mechanic. Took me about 4 hours for the fronts and 2 hours for the rear. This was taking my time with numerous coffee breaks etc.

 

I followed instructions from a my350z.com thread some of my instructions are straight from there. I've added some of the tips I learned as well which weren't in this thread.

 

Tools you will need are as follows: -

 

factory jack or trolley jack

floor jack

axle stands

1/2" ratchet (3/8")

misc 1/2" extensions (3/8")

17mm socket

12mm socket

14mm socket

19mm socket

17mm socket

torque wrench

spring compressor

 

Fronts are the most difficult so here goes: -

 

Remove the Strut bar. This is under compression, so wil expand when loosened. You will need to put some compression back in after re-fitting

 

Picture 1 – Strut Bar

 

Unbolt the 3 12mm upper strut mount bolts from under the hood, set them aside as to NOT misplace them. I left mine on initially, until I was ready to remove the strut assembly. Loosen the centre upper nut on the top of the strut mount. This will save time and problems later, as it is easier to loosen when under tension. If the whole centre shaft rotates, leave it till later.

 

Picture 2 – Strut Top Bolt

 

Jack up the car using the factory jack and place and axle stand under the box section chassis, then repeat the other side (see picture)

 

Picture 3 – Axle Stands in place

 

Unbolt the 12mm bolt holding the brake line on the strut, set nut aside and pull brake line off the strut. Look at pic with red arrow for brake line location.

 

Picture 4 – Brake line nut (not my car)

Remove the speed sensor line from the strut in the 2 places it attaches to the strut via push in fittings (blue arrow) Remove the nut from the bottom of the strut(red arrow). Remove the nut holding the swaybar end link to the suspension arm(green arrow)

 

Picture 5 – Front rollbar and strut bottom

 

Now use the spring compressors to compress the springs about 1 to 2 inches.

 

Picture 6 – Spring Compressors in place

 

Now remove the swaybar bolt and bold from the bottom of the strut. To do this, place a jack under the bottom link and lift to take the tension off. With a bit of wiggling these will then come out easily.

 

Now this is the bit which will save you hours. Remove the top nut on the on swivel bolt which attaches to the top A frame. This has a split pin which will probably break and will need replacing on re-fitting. This will allow the top A frame to lift up and allow the hum to swivel out making it much easier to remove the strut assembly.

 

Picture 7 – Top A frame bolt removed.

 

Now press down on the bottom link and remove the strut assembly. If you left the top bolts in don’t forget to remove them now.

 

Now de-assembly the strut assembly by removing the top bolt. Some people have had problems with this. Mine came off easily. It the whole shaft rotates, put an 8mm spanner on the shaft, or adjustable wrench and use a spanner to remove the 17mm bolt.

 

Picture 8 – Strut Assembly

 

Now take the old spring out and replace with the new one. You will need to remove the plastic pad at the bottom of the spring. This is glued on so I used a screw driver to prise it off and super glued it to the new spring. Tighten the top bolt and place the spring under tension again using the spring compressors. This is to make it easier to position the strut assembly back in place..

 

The rest is easy, replace the bottom bolts in the strut assembly, top bolts and sway bar etc. All pretty much in reverse.

 

Picture 9 - Old and New Spring

 

Picture 10 – New springs in place.

 

Repeat for the other side

 

Next post for the rears

[Kev946]

pics

[Kev946]

more pics

[Kev946]

last pic for fronts (pic 10)

[Kev946]

Now you’ve done the hard work so onto the rears.

 

Jack up car using factory jack. Remove wheel and tire. Now place floor jack below the suspension member that the coil spring is located in and us the jack to hold the spring in place, raising it up a 1/8" or so. Refer to the picture I have provided and remove the nut to the suspension member (blue arrow). Picture is from above looking down.

 

I used a trolley jack placed under the diff and lifted the entire rear of the car. I used the factory jack as well as security.

 

Picture 1 – Rear bolt to be removed.

 

Picture 1a – Rear bolt to be removed from another angle.

 

Place a jack under the spring tray and lift to take the weight. Very the amount of lift until the bolt can be removed. Not lower the tray until the spring can be removed. The tray may not want to move much so I used my foot to press it down. Some have recommended loosening the nut at the other end. I didn’t find it necessary.

 

Picture 2 – Spring removed.

 

Remove the rubber damper of the bottom of the spring and place on the new one.

 

Picture 3 – Old and new spring, (old one has the rubber damper on)

 

Now place the new spring in the tray and use the jack to lift the tray until the bolt lines up. Replace the bolt and job done. Repeat for the other side.

 

 

And there we are finished. Pat yourself on the back for a job well done, open a can of beer and relax.

 

Picture 4 – Sweeeeeeeetttttt..

[Kev946]

Final result...

[Removed]

great guide Kev

 

thanks!

[Kev946]

great guide Kev

 

thanks!

 

Thanks Mate.

 

This was put together from reaserching a few US sites. I even pinched a couple of photos. You will find this is definately the easiest way of replacing the springs. In particular the removal of the top a frame bolt can save hours.

 

Hope this helps someone.

 

Once I have more feel of the new springs I'll do a write up on the difference.