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Rear arch / welded seam. Rust prevention

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Hi All


Just a quick post asking for some advice. I have some small areas of rust on the inside most edge of the welded seam (the part that would get rolled). The outside of the arch is showing no signs of bubbling and all metal feels solid.


I am currently planning on purchasing some Blitz Hammer Deox gel & zinc primer.

Remove all loose material & original paint, sand back the rusted area and use the Deox gel, prime and then paint with something I've not thought of yet.


Has anyone else done something similar? I'm hoping this will help delay the inevitable by atleast a few years as I have caught it early on.


I'll take some pictures of I remember tomorrow to give you all a better idea of what I'm up against.




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Well, design of 350Z is flawed. It's the same crap as Japanese cars were using from the 90's. Even in 2008 (though car was designed around 2000) they haven't used plastic splash shields. It is going to be hard to fix rust, once the cancer is present. It will spread in all hard to get spots. Grinding the rust away, to bare metal. Thorough cleaning and zinc primer. It is going to be tuff. And I wonder how long will it hold since dirt, salt and crap managed to get into the tightest areas. Even seams can bi filled with gunk. No way anyone can get in between two layers of metal.

Honestly, I was considering cleaning rear seam, drying it and than filling it with some sort of rubbery-like protection. The thing they usually use on cars from the factory. Or even roll the lip upwards and filling it with something. Also, using clear bra on the lip's face is good idea to get the metal protected from rock chips. Especially if you run wide rims/tires.

But as mentioned - design is flawed. You cannot protect the rear part where bumper clips to the chassis. That place is unprotected. Other than factory zinc protection. But most of the junk gets trapped there. Then bumper holding bolt starts to rust it then spreads onto sheetmetal and from there on you're basicly F****. I hate it. I really do. When my 2000 Honda Prelude made the first bubble I sold the car. Cause I knew I'll go insane fixing it. Japanese sheet metal just sucks. I've had a 2004 BMW Z4. Not a spec of rust. Car had 130.000km and underneath looked the same or nicer than my Z with 28.000km. Don't get me wrong, also BMW is notorious with rust problems. But lately car manufacturers managed to get it under control. Mostly with different designs, better manufacturing and better sealing. Renault - they make shitbox cars but none of them rust. So one thing Nissan should copy from and they didn't back than.

Edited by MtJavnk

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Picture time! I've attached both inside and outside shots of both wheel arches. It's only so that bubbling and one chip where the paint is flaking.

The car is a 54 plate with 52k miles


MtJavnk, I've just seen the bolt you are referring too that holds the bumper on, It doesn't look too bad in my case. Will need to have the wheel off to have a good look.

Do you know if this seam between the inner and outer panels is sealed with anything from factory? 

I think the inside of my wheel archs are in good shape (correct me if I'm wrong from the pictures). Nothing flaking off or overly rusty! But could they be rusting from between the panels?


I'm only worrying as one of my fronts base had a few bubbles appear in the last month or so. And a small imperfection in the paint on one of the back arches but this could be something that has always been there! (Photo of arch is attached also). It's not noticeable at all unless you look down the line of the car in sunlight! 






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I am no field expert - I know how this rust never stops once it begins. And it usually begins inside-out. That's the worst part. And your car is not bad at all. I think if you do this now and properly you'll be good for many years to come. Just be sure to have a peak underneath few times a year and cover all new paint chips. Actually I am doing some fender chips right as we speak.


To get that bubbling rust away there's only one way - metal grinder or thorough sanding down to healthy metal. From there - if there's zero rust spots - you prime it with with zink, primer, 2-3 base coats and 2 clear coats. I don't know if you'll be doing this on your own or not.

Rusting i nbetween the panels (where the spot welds are) would show as bubbling usual. Bubbling usually means corrosion is happening under the paint in it's coming out. That's why bubbling is usually just visible tip of the iceberg underneath.

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