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ColinS

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Posts posted by ColinS

  1. The ride is just absolutely fantastic, just glides round corners, zero body roll. I've only got it on 6 out of 16 so it can be A LOT firmer. I’ve got 20mm spacers all round as well on the std rays and it’s amazing just how much difference that makes.

     

    I also have a pair of smoke front side markers (reflectors) for sale, never fitted as bought them for my 57 but don't fit the new shape. (why on earth would Nissan change these, what a pointless exercise) - £20

  2. Standard Cat back Exhaust from a 57plate only 2 weeks usage - Offers

     

    Standard Full Suspension inc A Arm from a 57 plate only 4 weeks usage - Offers

     

    Blue Tooth Adaptor only 8 weeks usage - £80

     

    Polk Momo 12" subs x 2 never used still in original box - £100 each

    Fantastic sounding subs

    http://www.polkaudio.com/caraudio/products/mm120

     

    Xbox, chipped, HD pack, 120gb hard drive, extra controller port added to back, wireless controller, wired controler, lots of games on hard drive, get HD gamming for a fraction of the price of the 360 or PS3 - £80

  3. there really are not shims that can be used that I can think of that would be sufficient.

     

    A 350Z uses an upper a arm and rear control arm - as such, when you lower the car, you not only induce camber but toe in as well. The car can cope with some additional camber but the toe in is what kills the handling and what eats tires quickly.

     

    Your solutions are fairly simple ones though.

     

    For the front, you'll need to fit an adjustable a arm. I personally use the Cusco ones on my car, but there are other good ones too (Stillen makes a nice one, and we're a dealer if you need)

     

    Here are the Cusco:

     

    http://www.z1auto.com/prodmore.asp?mode ... rodid=1288

     

    These give you admittedly a limited range of "positive" camber adjustment, but it should be sufficient to get most setup back at, or near factory camber specs. My own car is about 2 inches lower than stock and I can get my car to the upper range of "factory spec" if needed. By choice, I run -2 degrees up front as I love the handling. Toe in is factory adjustable up front, so no parts need to be changed

     

    For the rear, the best bet is the SPC kit (marketed as Eibach too, as SPC makes suspension pieces for many other firms out there). This kit consists of an adjustable arm for camber, and an eccentric bolt to adjust rear toe. Here is a link:

     

    http://www.z1auto.com/prodmore.asp?mode ... rodid=1314

     

    I have not yet tried the Eibach coilovers, so unfortunately I can't comment on that. But, I've been lucky to be able to try about 25 sets of coilovers to date on the Z, so maybe soon we can try the Eibach set too

     

    Adam

     

    Many thanks for your excellent info. I don't mind getting the SPC for the rear but the front is expensive. Do you think i could get away with not using front ones?

     

    Eibach have told me directly that they are currently developing shims which will help but how much help they will be i don't know.

  4. Thanks for the welcome and the info.

     

    I have looked abotu and see n the camber adjustment kits but was just wondering when you actually needed them. I see a lot of info about the rears but not much on the front and the fronts are expensive too so i'd rather not have to buy them.

     

    Eibach are telling me they are currently creating shims that will be ready in 5 weeks to solve this problem at only a few quid each. Anyone know about this or experience with shims on other cars?

     

    Thanks

     

    Colin

  5. Ok so i'm going for a set of Eibach coilovers and am lowering it as much as the local speed bumps allow.

     

    Anyone got pics of Zs at different heights?

     

    More importantly what do you all kow about camber on the Z when dropping it? I've heard (from my Eibach dealer) that they are currently creating shims to deal with the problem at only a few quid each.

     

    And advise appreciated.

  6. You can remove them. It's one of those things if they are there they have to work but they don't actually have to be there.

     

    It's like you need wipers that work if you have a windscreen, but if you don't have a wind screen then you don't need wipers. You don't need a windscreen to pass an MOT.

     

    What i'd like to know is the Z badge big enough to cover the hole if you take them off and move the Z badge down.

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