hyeung

The underlying issue was the battery. Things did not help as the new battery was faulty and not holding charge. once that was replaced all had been good....

For a power steering fluid change, is the following part correct? Nissan AT-MATIC D Fluid 1litre - KE90899931 I assume 1 litre is sufficient? Can someone also advise on the correct Genuine Nissan parts for replacement Alternator and AC belts for 2005 VQ35DE type. Thx

Looking for new 5w30 oils to try for the next 70k service. It's between Silkolene PRO S and Motul 8100 Eco-nergy? Anyone used either, or both would like to comment? Previously changes have been 5w40 Motul 300V. But looking for something cheaper that's just as good....

Guys....Thanks for all the input! Just a quick update....despite having this issue for a good week or two, it would seem my problem has mysteriously fixed itself!! Had the car washed over the weekend (by coincidence), and since then there has been no more noise The pressure wash may have done the trick. As you guys suggested, a stone may have got lodged in. I suspect some stone debri got stuck in the brake calipers or there abouts? Anyways, hope it stays in good shape for a wee while longer Thanks again! Hung

I've had the rear axle issue in the past and the symptoms are not the same. The noise only happens at speed, the noise is obvious when it hits a specific speed range I.e 25mph or 15mph. I tend to let the car decelerate around that speed range and the sound is noticeable. At the higher speeds of 25mph it sounds like a rubbing at each rotation. At lower speeds of 5mph, it's like click at each rotation.

Hi, I recently noticed an annoying rubbing/clicking noise coming from the rear passenger side, which I can hear at low speeds around 30-5mph. It seems to occur on each tyre rotation, however I can never hear it when the car is cold, only once it's warmed up after a 15+ min drive etc. Again noise happens even when I dip the clutch down. I'm not sure if its relevant but there has always been some play in the rear pads - when reversing or going forward, I always get a click when applying the brakes for the first time. And Visually the discs look ok? If it was metal rubbing against metal, I would think it would happen all the time, even when the its cold. I assume if it was a wheel bearing issue I would hear I all the time too? Any ideas what areas this could potentally be?

The battery is brand new (3wks old).....so i'd be suprised if it was the battery, unless it a faulty one.

Mine usually sits bang on 14, but at initial startup slightly over 14. Which is why I thought the recent reading shown on the picture was odd? Anyways, car battery was flat this morning I can only assume its a drain somewhere or maybe a bad alternator perhaps? It's now back in the garage for checkup now..

Hi, About 3 weeks ago, I had issues starting the car up. At the time it appeared that the battery was not holding charge. According to the voltmeter, when the engine was ON it registered a constant 14volts (so alternator looked ok?) Anyways, battery was changed and all was good again. However, its been 3 weeks now and i'm not back to square one? The car is struggling to start again. Can I ask, during crank-up what voltage does one expect it to show? Mine was recently registering 8volts before shooting just above 14volts when engine was ON. And it did sound it was struggling. Is it the case that when cranking the needle should not drop any more than 10volts (around the first quarter)? After a 30-40min drive, I pulled over and switched the engine off. When I turn the ignition to ON the voltage registered just over 12volts (as expected). But in the space of 10-20 secs, the voltage slowly dropped just below 12volts! Sounds like it not got sufficent charge? Also, I noticed this evening the voltage was sitting just BELOW 14volts (while engine was ON at idle - see pic below). Does this suggest a problem with the alternator, and perhaps this is the reasons that its not charging the battery properly? I'm not sure why this was not detected on the first time around; is it possible to have a intermitent fault with the alternator. Any ideas and thoughts??

Hey Alex, How you doing! The garage told me the battery charge checks out fine today? Will ask about the starter motor thou thanks. So I assume nothing else looks to be likely other than these items? I did read on the issues with NATS anntena etc but don't know if the applies? Will find out more on Monday... Cheers, Hung

Yup they were replaced with the oem platinum ones about 2yrs ago. The car is on 65k now. Is there a chance of any dirt or moisture on the plugs? Would this cause the issues I'm experiencing? If the car starts and runs for sometime, I have no issues with subsequent startups as it would seem. But the next day I'm faced with the startup issues?

Hi, My 350z is experiencing startup issues as of yesterday evening. There are no mods, standard 2005 model and had since new. I could not start her up yesterday. You can hear it crank up but never quite manages to fire? Tired a couple more times, waiting a few seconds in between but same problem. During the ON position I noticed that the battery volts was sitting around the first quarter mark. I think it usual sits at the half way mark? With further attempts at startup, it got to the point where I could not even hear it crank. Having left the car off for a couple of minutes, I gave it another try and it eventually fired up...but really struggled! While the engine was running the battery volt reading was now sitting at the 3/4 mark as expected. There was no error lights, and the car appeared to drive fine? After a 30min drive got home,  engine off and switched ignition to ON position. The battery volt reading was at the half way mark as expected. Tired a couple of engine starts and fired without issue. Left the car till the morning. Tired to start the engine with same issues. You could hear it crank but does not manage to start. With further attempts it eventually stops to crank, dash lights still come on. It appears the battery either gets more drained. Switched ignition to ON position and noticed the battery volts was sitting at the first quarter mark. I also checked the security light in the corner of the windscreen. Blinks red normally, but when in ON position it stops blinking. So suggests the keys are ok? Also tired my other key with same issue? Left it for a few minutes and tired again.....eventually managed to barely start the thing up! Decided to just take the car to the infiniti garage for checkup. Again was able to startup in the usual way without issues at the garage (after 30min drive there). They checked the battery and alternator and said it checks fine? Battery looks to be well charged...Don't have any further detail of checks. I've left the car with them and hope they can look over again come Monday. I'm sure the car will have issues starting first time. Sorry for the long description..... Any ideas what this could be? Concerned this is going to take sometime to figure out

Cool....i'll probably just pop some moly in on the next service. Would be more incined to do it myself if it was more easily accessible i.e. like the oil/coolant top ups.

Many thanks Alex! Btw, would it be over kill to change the gearbox oil on each service? Thinking of doing it on the next one, but also try the Molyslip that you suggested. Hoping it'll make things even more sweet. Oh about the rear rubbing noise, they repositioned a break backplate which seemed to have helped alittle. Nothing major thou. Cheers, Hung

Checked the car this morning and still MIL light showing. Had a quick look at the mass air flow sensor unit, all of which was plugged in and looked secure. However, noticed the coolant levels had shrunk below min! Anyways cut things short, its all sorted now after another visit to the garage. Was told something about an O2 sensor? No more MIL light and all appears fine....plus coolant topped up. Car now feels all nice again. Plus gear changes are some what nicer on the feel. Probably due to its first gearbox oil change, but not any worse than before. Still alittle clunky the odd time i.e. 1st-2nd. But i guess its the norm as with most 350s. Didnt have any MolySlip applied....so maybe that would have helped.....maybe next time. Thanks, Hung

Cheers Alex I suspected it would be something related to the plugs....So i guess its still safe to drive about Will drop down tommorrow and have them recheck those specific areas... Btw, is it possible to read the relevant error codes for this without any special readers? Thanks, Hung

I'll defintely go down to the garage tommorrow morning..... However, when replacing spark plugs is there certain electrical items that need to be disconnected or removed which may have triggered such light faults? The other items of work such as oil change, diff/gearbox oil change would unlikely cause such problems. Its just too much of a coincidence for such fault to occur after driving away from a service. Btw, how does one read the code to determine the possible cause without any special equipment? Thanks, Hung

If you reset it, does the whatever recorded faults get cleared? Wouldnt know what the actual problem was rite....

Hi, Just got back from a P2 54K service...spark plugs, coolant, gearbox and diff oil replaced. However, having drove the car for about 30mins i notice the yellow Malfunction Indicator Light appearing (just on constantly)!? The car appears to drive fine and nothing obviously wrong? Have tried turning the car off and back on....but light keeps coming back. Not sure how serious this is.....assume i can still drive the car, or low speeds? Can anyone let me know what are the possible causes of this light. The spark plugs were replaced today, could the incorrect installation of this perhaps cause such light? Would certain items had to be disconnected or taken apart in order to replace the spark plugs...which may have cause the light? Any thoughts would be appreciated. Cheers, Hung

Hi, I don't believe i have had either replaced to date (transmission or LSD oil). I'm now approaching 52k with the following services to date P1-P2-P3-P1. Now due to P2. 1) Can someone advise on what the correct interval should be for doing the transmission oil and LSD oil? As i dont believe i recall seeing anything mentioned specifically in the service book. 2) I seem to recall seeing something on the inspection sheets that the LSD gear oil does not need changing for viscous coupling types. Does this mean that the LSD oil need not change for the 350z? 3) Anyone know what the correct nissan part numbers are for the replacment oils i.e. Genuine Nissan Transmission Oil SAE 75W-85 API GL-4 (2.9l) Genuine Nissan LSD Oil SAE 80w-90 API GL-5LS (1.4l) Thanks, Hung

its done 12700....still low

Over the past few months i've noticed that the clutch pedal feels strange? More noticably when stationary in neutral, when the clutch is pressed in around the first 1/4. Its more noticable when you slowly rock the clutch up and down around this point. It feels like a strange roughness texture through the pedal, such that you feel a scraping/rubbing type vibration. However, this does not happen when the engine is off. Clutch feels fine. I'm certain it didnt feel this way in the beginning? Can i asked if this is normal? If not, what do you reckon is up? Cheers, Hung