hyeung

i recently emailed them and ended up getting someone called Lauren replying. They are now charging 75+vat per hour labour increased from jan. not sure if this is discounted or just the standard rate? Also for a P3 it’s £260 which includes brake fluid change. https://www.infiniti.co.uk/centre-locator/infiniti-glasgow.html?utm_medium=other&utm_content=UKOW183GPS28222&utm_campaign=fy18_q3_google-paid-search-uk&dcp=psn.non.HMP.UKOW183GPS28222.google.leadgen_infiniti&gclid=EAIaIQobChMI7oew3_zz3gIVTrHtCh0rlwVhEAAYASAAEgLd3PD_BwE&gclsrc=aw.ds Appears the team has changed, and Marie n Kelly are no longer listed?

Hi, Anyone still using Infiniti Glasgow for servicing? Are they still providing discounted rates for club members? Just curious what the hourly rates are.....if anyone had recent work done. Cheers

So far the estimated 700 for the track rod ends on both sides is already a push also got a p2 to through in there... When you mention ball joints, surely they are part of the track rod end. Unless you're talking about other ball joint parts...

Thanks...have PM Ewen for prices. Did a forum search, and surprised there's little chat on the subject of replacements/aftermarkets....so possibly most would just stick with the standard Genuine Nissan ones?

The garage is an independent, but asked them to quote us Nissan parts to get an idea on costs. You had these rod ends replaced? Did you do both sides at the same time? If I get the Nissan parts they'd be the same price as quoted, unless there are cheaper and more superior aftermarkets that others are using on the forum? Any suggestions please....

Hi, Had an Mot advisory for some play developing on the front nearside track rod end ball joint. But not really noticed any knocking noises as such...so might be early signs. I've got a p2 service due and now looking to get this issue recitifed. I was recently quoted 97+vat for the part alone (Genuine Nissan); I assume this is just for a single side. And about 55+vat for labour plus an extra 55+vat for 4 wheel alignment after. A couple of questions... 1) although it appears to be only one side affected, is it best practice to get the track rod ends replaced across both sides at the same time? 2) what's the standard labour time for replacing one side of the track rod end? I believe the price I was quoted is about 1 hr. That sound about right? 3) Is there better aftermarket options available, and at a cheaper rate compared with the Nissan ones? Looks like it's gonna be rather pricey, pair of Nissan ones at 200+vat, 110+vat (2hr) labour and 55+vat for alignment stretching it to almost 700 Thanks, HY Just looking to get some advice and options?

Aye knew it mention the 10 day max....but was curious if anyone had it go quicker? Only half way, so will wait and see....

Interesting, how long does yours take to go from step 7 to 8? It's the first time I've used, so naturally thought something's not rite, or an indication that my battery is duff?

Had the charger on since Sunday (almost 5 days running)...but still sitting on step 7? Waiting for it to move to step 8? Any ideas? Does it mean the battery is unable to charge fully?

This is my 2nd battery. The oem one lasted for 7 years. Recharged the battery again in recond mode. Took just over 4hrs and now on step 7. Will it really take up to 10 days at this stage until it reaches step 8?

Thanks just got one today. The car hasn't been used in a week, so ran the battery test and got a bad status back. But car still started ok, probably just voltage is slowly degrading. Just charging her up now, and within a few minutes it had jumped to stage 4.. Can I ask for the recond mode. Does one need to do this? In the past my battery has not drained to such a state that there's zero charge. It's more likely it's lost charge slightly below the 12v threshold that's required to start the car. The car sits unused for longer periods these days due a recent change in work circumstances (train commutes); so the car sits unused for longer periods. The battery is about 3 years old now. So will there be any benefit or need to add a recond step in my situation? Might be wrong but guessing it's only used when the battery is drained to zero etc. I assume you can recond anytime even if the battery is well charged? Cheers..

Aye, seemed like a daft question as I assumed it would be fine to charge it indoors at first. But having read the pdf manual, and noticed that the safety notes mentions that 1) during charging it requires proper ventilation 2) battery being charged could emit explosive gases. Prevent sparks close to the battery..etc http://www.ctek.com/Archive/ProductManualPdf/MXS%205.0%20Test%20and%20Charge_EN.pdf Hence that's why I wanted to check it was still appropriate to use this indoors (enclosed garage w gas boiler). Otherwise it'd be a bit of a hassle having to repark the car outside for charging, and having to get extension cables routed out etc.

Hi, Not been able to use the Z much these days, and have it parked in the garage. However, recently experienced start issues due to battery drain and general lack of use. I'm thinking of getting a trickle charger to keep the battery topped up. It seems some have gone for Ctek. Looking to get the Ctek MXS5.0? As I have the car parked indoors (double garage), for safety reasons is it fine to have such a unit connected up, charging and unattended in an enclosed garage? We have a gas boiler in the corner and the Z parked adjacent to it. Or must you charge outdoors, as I doubt the standard cables would be long enough.

Oem one at £200ish. ... Anyone gone the aftermarket route for replacement and any comments? Details and cost please ??

Aftermarket

Just had some work done on the car, and was advised of some badly corroded areas. Firstly the Stay Assy Tunnel (Stay assy tunnel 74870 cd200) as shown below. Looks like one section is completely missing due to the level of corrosion. Can someone advise what exactly is the purpose of this particular part? And if this is a common issue is there's any cheaper suitable replacements available in comparision to Nissan parts? I assume labour wise, the fix is very easy? The other area that i've been advised on is a heat insulator (Heat insulator 74761 cd000). Assume this is an insulator for the exhaust system? Sitting just above the exhaust box? Any info would be appreciated. Cheers, Hung

Hi, Recently noticed a few black spots of oil leaking under the car. It's situated around the rear centre roughly in line with the wheels and just behind the exhaust box. Having a closer look I took some snaps and there looks to be some black stains running from a hole mounted on a frame...so assume this is source leak? Is this perhap a problem with a rear differential bushing going bad which i assume is mounted in that hole? Can someone knowledgable soul please advise if this sounds about right? If that is the problem, are there known parts available for rectifying this....Also, what's actually involved labour time-wise (hopefully a quick easy fix?) Btw, I'm not sure how long I've had this issue as I only came across it by accident. So rather concerned if there's any associated damage if its been going on for sometime? Any advice would be appreciated. Thanks, Hung

Just wanted to see if anyone also had to change their clutch slave cylinder more than once for this particular issue?

Just wanted to see if anyone also had to change their clutch slave cylinder more than once for this particular issue?

Just wanted to see if anyone also had to change their clutch slave cylinder more than once for this particular issue?

I replaced the clutch slave cylinder 5 years ago...not the clutch itself.

Hi, Just notice my clutch pedal suddenly lost its resistance across the first half of the travel again. Happened towards the end of my journey home as I went thru a lot of traffic on the motorway (lots of start n stops or cruising in low gears). Managed to get home and after staying stationary for a few minutes (with a few presses of the pedal) I noticed the resistance eventually returned. Check the clutch fluid and appears full and no apparent visual leaks. I had these similar symptoms about 5 years ago, including the point where the clutch would not return from the floor! I recall after sitting stationary for sometime the pedal feel returned. Anyways, i had the clutch slave cylinder replaced along with the clutch fluid. I recall the fluid was very dark! Since then I've not had a repeat episode of these symptoms until recently now. Do these clutch slave cylinders tend to go very frequently? As I've changed this part a few years ago, do you reckon the same part has gone again, or would be that something else has caused the failure this time I.e Clutch Master cylinder. Should one replace both master and slave at the same time? What are the rough durations for fitting each of these items? Thanks, Hung

I don't think I plan to carry out any more bed-in cycles. In the second cycle I barely noticed any fade at all... I just hoped that my bed in procedure was correct as like I said, notice a strange darkish banding around one of the front rotors as shown in the above snaps. It's abit more obvious when viewed in person. I got the impression that this is just build up of pad material? Maybe that it was not laid on evenly across the entire surface of the rotor? Not sure why or how? Which maybe due to incorrect bed in procedures? Anyone advise on snaps above? Or it it nothing to be concerned about, as it should resolve over time and further wear? Thanks, Hung

Hi, Had a new set of rotors and pads fitted last week (DBA 4000 T3 + Ferodo DS2500). The garage had started the bedding process, but gave them a gentle use over the first week anyways. Over the weekend, carried out some of the common bed in procedures along the lines of - 8 consecutive firm 60-20 declerations (was aiming to do 10, but traffic appeared from behind). So drove for 20mins to cool things off. Stopped and had a quick look over the rotors, and proceed to do a further 10 consecutive 60-20 decelerations followed by 3-4 80-20; and without stopping drove for about 30mins to cool things off without touching the brakes. I presume the brakes will take a good number of further miles to bed in completely. Anyways I need to check if this rotor wear looks normal on my front passenger side? I've noticed there's a dark banding around the centre of the rotor. Is this something to be concerned about, and will this resolve itself as the rotors wear and bed-in over the street miles to come?