Dicky

Is that Meguiar's Deep Crystal Carnauba Wax or the more expensive Boora Carnauba Wax Paste, or Simoniz, or Carnauba Gold ....(don't life get complicated)

Ok sounds like a plan, I'll go down the wax route first and see how it performs. It's going to be a bit of a buggar cleaning it off but hey ho IM RETIRED sonwhat else have I got to do!!

Thanks for all your input chaps!

Do you know if you can get high temperature clear coat, similar to brake calliper paint?

The wax idea sound good but think it might not last long given the temps involved

It's not just the plenum it's the ally parts at the front of the engine as well. Don't fancy painting/polishing them, was hoping once rubbed down they could be sprayed with some protective covering to maintain the ally look.

Was wondering about clear coat spray but worried it might discolour and peel off.

My 350's been standing outside for the last few months and I've noticed that the aluminium alloy plenum and other aluminium engine parts are starting to discolour with small white dusty deposits. They seem to rub off with a bit of effort but pretty sure they'll come back.

Anyone have the same problem and better yet found a solution to protect it ??

Oops looks like I've some how posted this in the wrong section. If moderators can move it into General I'd be obliged.

 

For Tricky Ricky... Well the centre electrode appears a bit flatter than the rest, not so much of a point. The plugs are the Platinum type.

Hope it's not valve or seal problems. Wonder if it's worth putting Redex in the fuel to aid cleaning the injectors, although I've heard that Optimax fuel( which I always use) contains stuff that kerps the injectors clean.

Can the injectors be tested in any way?

 

Well the center electrode of the plugs should have a flat end with reasonable well defined edges anyway, did you check to see if the gap had opened up in comparison with the others?

When you say it looked worse than the others and sooty, that could just mean that its running a little rich at idle which could just be down to bad injector spray pattern, doesn't sound like a lot to worry about.

I'm beginning to wonder if I'm a bit paranoid now Tricky, the sooty looking plug was what I found during servicing last year, at the time I thought the plug itself may have been malfunctioning because the cars performance seemed to improve following servicing (although their wasn't any rough running noticed Prior to servicing)

This time I got concerned because the plug tip looked more disfigured or squashed down (only slightly) than the others (didn't know they were supposed to have a flatter tip). The electrode gaps on all plugs looked to be fine. I agree I might be jumping the gun here, think I'll run it for a few months and check it again to see how it looks. I'll also do a bit of research into checking injector operation as I don't know much about them (I'm an old school carb guy you see ha ha).

Thanks for your input though young man!

Oops looks like I've some how posted this in the wrong section. If moderators can move it into General I'd be obliged.

For Tricky Ricky... Well the centre electrode appears a bit flatter than the rest, not so much of a point. The plugs are the Platinum type.

Hope it's not valve or seal problems. Wonder if it's worth putting Redex in the fuel to aid cleaning the injectors, although I've heard that Optimax fuel( which I always use) contains stuff that kerps the injectors clean.

Can the injectors be tested in any way?

Just finished the cars service. Checked and cleaned the plugs and noticed something a bit odd on

cylinder 4.

The plug electrode tip (pointy bit) seemed a bit more worn down than any of the other plugs even though it had the light fawn colouring as it should. When I looked at the plugs last year cylinder plug 4 again look the worst for wear compared to the others in fact it looked a bit sooty so I changed it at the time.

Just wondering if anyone might be able to suggest why one cylinder could be performing worse than the others.??

That sounds like a plan. Thanks young man!

Think I agree Strudul £600+ isn't worth it to gain an extra inch and adding air would be daft. Just spoke to her ref this post and she's starting to see the impractability of all this.

If we go ahead it's going to be changing the springs idea if anything. She doesn't do track days or hard driving, it's all about the look!

Thanks for your input and that of the other members but I think we know which way to jump now.

Thanks TT350....Yep she wants to lower it simply for the look. I have fitted 25mm spacers all round and it does make it look lower and chunky. But she's seen pics of lowered show cars with wide wheels etc and forgets the day to day practicality of such cars

My previous posts were in response to fitting only springs as suggested by others. I hadn't thought of just replacing springs as I've only ever heard of people fitting coil overs although I don't yet know what's involved in that. Is it just a matter of removing the oem springs and dampers and fitting a coil over unit that consists of a spring and damper combined (with a nut adjustment for desired hight I assume)

Ive just read that the cars ground clearance is just under 4.96" and speed bumps are between 3" to 4" so it would seem that any of the springs mentioned by Strudel would either bottom out or be right on the edge of it.

Starting to think that air/hydraulic ride height adjustment would be necessary if you wanted to fit lowering springs.

How do those who have fitted Tein's find life out in the streets ?

Anyone got any idea how low is to low?

Thanks Strdul that's really useful info and a good starting point for me. Thanks for taking the time.

I'll probably be posting more questions and I'd value your input and that of other members

Thanks Strudul definitely don't want to go to low, any idea how much they drop the car.

PS given the other springs available I'm going to have to do a bit more research.

Just been researching Teins on google which directed me tomanothervforum where they contrasted these against H&R springs. Any info on these ?

If you fit Tein springs (never heard of them by the way) I assume they must be shorter than the oem springs so does that mean you have to get shorter dampers?

Got my daughter a 2010 370 a short while ago and she would like to lower it if poss. Don't know much about this so seeking info/advice before we make the decision.

What would be the max recommended amount to lower allowing for speed bumps and multi story car parks.

Is it just a matter of buying 4 coilovers (I believe they're called) and replacing the existing springs and dampers.

If so can anyone recommend suitable coilovers.

Would the car then need to have the coilovers professionally height adjusted.

Thanks in anticipation

They are a cheap brand, which can mean they are softer metal and prone to going 50p shaped far quicker than better quality stuff

I will check into that,thanks

Impressive! ....Now that's lateral thinking at its best!

Anyone fitted these wheels or can comment on their suitability for my 2004 GT with 20mm spacers.

They're on ebay (link below..hope it works). They seem very cheap which also worries me a bit.

The eBay advert has a guide which suggests they will fit but was hoping someone knows something about them.

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/18-CRUIZE-190-SP-ALLOY-WHEELS-FIT-NISSAN-SKYLINE-200SX-S14-S15-300ZX-350Z-370Z/201714612713?_trksid=p2045573.c100033.m2042&_trkparms=aid%3D111001%26algo%3DREC.SEED%26ao%3D1%26asc%3D43782%26meid%3D21293f5a83e94f539fe01eb4abac8d0f%26pid%3D100033%26rk%3D2%26rkt%3D6%26sd%3D331745577324

Been trying to educate myself on wheel technology but what with pcd's, inset or outset's, hub centric's and lug centric's, my brain is beginning to boil

As far as I can tell from the circuit diagrams they are not driven directly from sensor outputs. The oil pressure sensor output goes into a "Triple meter cpu" then on into a "Unified meter and A/C amp module".

The voltmeter is also driven from the output of the Triple meter cpu which also appears to be driven by a output of the "Unified meter and A/C amp module".

So no direct signals from the sensors......as far as I can tell. Hope this helps!

Ah hem!

No interest in weight saving guys only carrying a punctured wheel !

Jurassic Z

Never thought of that one Rob. It's my daughters car so I'm getting everything set up to cover all eventualities, hopefully she'll never have to use it. However that's sounds like a plan.

Willsy 1980

Ha ha some lateral thinking there me thinks.

Plagued by afterthought.

So I've bought the 350z space saver fitted into the boot, bought the jack and extending wheel brace, modified the polystyrene storage thingy to fit the latter bits and trial fitted the space saver ......BUT.....didn't check to see if the removed 19" wheel would fit in the boot.

Can anyone who has gone this route please confirm that a removed 19" wheel will fit in the boot and allow the boot lid to close., it will save an old man even more work.

Thanks in anticipation!