cefiro_drifter

lol last pic makes my car look like its falling over

thanks Mr Mod for the approval

as title says really. Its the ginger/burnt orange/ copper color

Good straight clean condition with parking sensors, no idea if they work as mine doesnt have the beeping awesome gadgetry that is reverse sensors. No damage at all

I dont like UK bumpers

1 like JDM bumpers

I have a JDM car

No plate or lights needed as i have those lol

Any color as im giving my car a soul and spraying it another color

Would also be interested in FRP bumper providing its the same shape and style as an OEM stock one of very very close.

im located junction 9 M25 in surrey

The AB's are school those Convicts ion how to play proper rugby lol

Shame the kiwis can't kick or @*!# today

wonder if roland is sponsered by spec savers !!!!!!! how could he not call that

i think the welshies were given a big dose of " man the **** up " in the locker room but they need to get Hook back on

YES YES YES

take that

yay coz thats just whats needed in a semi final game !!!!

WTF were they thinking appointing him to ref a semi final game.

That is an appalling decision

totally agree what a joke

Isnt the ref irish? oh and who beat the irish !!!!

No probs man.

I only ever ran my skid cars on shell or tesco super.

Na I didn't but it's easy tbh

Remove Two locking tabs on the top

In the front of them are two plastic covers hiding two 10mm bolts which hold the AC rad to the normal rad

Take both hoses off

Take air box off

Take plastic engine cover off

Lift rad out with fans but remember to unclip the wiring

It's a lil tricky to get back in but only coz te AC rad likes to flop around lol

After near on 20 attempts this is thee one that worked perfectly for me

http://www.driftworks.com/forum/technic ... issan.html

I just used shell anti freeze as it was a Sunday an nothing was open

this is the ONLY way i managed to bleed my 350. Took near on 18 tries before i tried this

http://www.driftworks.com/forum/technic ... issan.html

hahah im 30 but look like im 15 so people actually take me seriously now. They also think im a flash git/rich kid but them my 05 plate did only cost me 3k

having drifted ALOT of cars in and out of competition i can say that a 350 wiould be a great car. In stock form they out performed alot fo my skid cars. Bags of torque, great acceleration thanks to the 6 speed and close ratio. Only issue would be cooling, the stock rads are rediculously skinny so get an alloy rad and twin leccy fans.

I'll be skidding my 350 once i get some money

OMG finally fixed it. Its now over cooling thanks to the massive ( in comparison to the stock rad ) alloy rad and twin fans !!! but im getting warm/hot air while stationary and moving.

Ended up bleeding it about 6 more times using the "get a massive bottle, wedged in to the rad and keep pouring stuff in till all air is out" method.

Still had the same issue only now a new issue of the top hose was getting mighty hot and rock solid and the lower hose was still cold !!!

With that i knew the thermo must be shot so took it out, stuck it in a pan on the stove with boiling water and it barely opened. GREAT !!! its sunday, no one is open and i need the car for monday morning. Now i would like to thank nissan for making it have one way screws so you cant get the thernostat off the housing easily. Thats when i went all match.com and found my thermo a new mate, Mr Grinder.

Anyway i cut the thermo off the housing, re-installed, bled it a few more times and hey presto its all good. Even when sitting in traffic ( after a 20 minate drive on the motorway) the temp doesnt go over half and thats without the fans on (hard wired on a manual switch now ). With the fans on and whilst driving it barely gets over 1/3 of the way which im fine with as it means its keeping nice and cool. Just means the heating never gets hot but only comfortably warm.

finally can drive my car without having to plan everything around traffic

could very well have just been a bit of trapped air and when u undid the bleed valve it escaped

wish mine would bloody go. bled it about 12 times in the last 3 days grrrrrr

edit...

how you get on with yours ?

mines all fixed thanks to a nice old school method of bleeding and taking my thermostat out. No more rock solid hoses, no more hot top and cold bottom and i have hot air. I also have a very very cool motor and no sign of getting hot

i wouldnt do it when its hot. I was just suggesting taking it off and pump the hoses to see if the water is circulating. No idea if it works but worth a go as it will take a matter of minates to do

Alex - if the thermostat is stuck shut would that not stop the water from circulating around there for not letting the hot water go through the heat matrix and not giving hot air ?

not a silyl question as it took me ages to find it lol

if your standing looking at the engine its the back left hand side of the enigne against the fire wall. Its a philips head flat plastic plug in the heating hose. Becareful to use a big philips head as mines pretty much stuffed due to it being taken off so many times ( previous idiot who owned my car )

its located around here

and it looks like this

i would say its the thermostat thats stuck shut and not allowing the water to flow round hence the temp fluxuation. Or your matrix is blocked

un do the bleed valve at the back on the heater hose and pump the hoses just to see if the water is circulating. I would bank on the stat playing up and for £23 quid it could be worth a punt

i am having a similar problem. Mine blows cold air when the car is stationary on idle but blows hot air when im driving. I've recently changed my rad for a much bigger one with leccy fans due to my stock ones not working and stock rad is tiny. 90% of people are saying its air in the system as 350's are an ABSOLUTE bitch to bleed. Could also be a stuck/sticking thermostat thats not letting the hto water circulate around the matrix

Thanks guys very helpful

One step I have no idea how it would help is filling the over flow bottle up !!! I mean it's just that, an over flow bottle. I didn't think the rad could suck water In from the bottle as the cap acts like a one way valve sort

Of thing

yeah i have a spare set of hands lol, one manning the bleed and one pouring in the coolant that way when its flowing out the bleed constantly and no bubbles i can block it up and then the rad and get topped out and cap on.

cheers for the help everyone.

Another issue is im so bloody paranoid of it over heating now hahahah

tell me about it. I guess i'll be trying it again tonight.

Someone on Driftworks said i have to have it so there is hot air coming through the vents in order for this to work as that means there is cooland in the system. Is that right or can i just have the front jacked up when its cold and do it ?

I had this issue when I changed my coolant. It was air trapped in the heater core. It is a pig to get it out. I found that jacking the front of the car up allowed the coolant to get into the heater core and forced the air back into the radiator and then it came out through the rad cap.

Cheers Stub, we did that a few times with and with out the car on and/or underload but i guess i have to keep doing it