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ben@RARE RIMS

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Posts posted by ben@RARE RIMS

  1. Most people would never go for 8.5 on the front, as they're not concave.

     

    I would suggest 18x9.5 ET20 front and 18x10 ET15 rear. That will get you a good flush fit, and concave wheels all round.

     

    Negative offsets will give you a headache for sure, unless you want to mess with the arches.

  2. The legality is down to the tyres, and whether the car is used on the road like it.

     

    In terms of having the wheel stick out like that it's not an issue, the law is concerned with where the tyre tread is - and whether or not it's covered by the arches.

     

    The 'correct' tyre size would be 335/30/18 on an 18x12...

  3. Previously we have these only in high offsets...

     

    Now we have some exciting offsets coming :D

     

    White with Polished lip

     

    Flat black with Gloss Black lip

     

    Here's some pics:

     

    Rear

    mxr18x11polishedgoldinn.jpg

    Front

    med_MXR%201890%205114%20ET351%20Steelgrey.jpg

     

    Please excuse the colours not being the ones mentioned above - they are not here quite yet but due in a few weeks, so thus far I dont have pics of the actual wheels.

  4. When wheels are made they're tested for the specific PCD.

     

    re-drilling them is not something you should do, as it will be untested and the wheel may not have been created with the additional strength available to support this.

  5. That's pretty well it Chris :)

     

    Forged wheels go 1 of 3 ways usually.

     

    They're the same size as a cast version, but lighter due to the increased strength allowing for less material to be used. Strength and load rating usually similar

     

    They're heaver than a cast wheel, but stronger - this is where race and rally wheels fall mostly :)

     

    The forged wheel is a blingy design that cannot easily be cast, often multi-piece. Weight and strength is similar to a cast wheel, but a more exciting design.

     

    The different techniques do give different properties in terms of stiffness and how they perform under damaging impacts, but both will be strong enough if VIA / JWL certified and tested.

     

    The time to be worried about a cast wheel is when it's made by somebody you've never heard of, and cant find out about. There's a large number of chinese manufacturers who do replica wheels, on alibaba you can get a replica of almost any wheel where a mould has just been taken of another wheel and it's copied, with the original manufacturers markings still in place. These are the scary ones - likely little or no testing is involved. There's no UK / EU standard or requirement for a wheel, so it's up to suppliers to make sure things are fit for purpose. When people are in it to make a quick profit you cannot always be sure on the quality of the products, like wheels with Forged Monoblock written on the side that actually aren't...

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