Rich350z

Thanks for the reminder.

The photo with the white cable tie is the one I was asking about in my original post - I replaced it with white instead of black because that’s all I had at the time and my only passenger is my 8 year old who couldn’t care less what colour it is lol. 

The second photo is the drivers side - no tie there when I bought it, so at a loss as to why there’s one on the other side in the first place - the strapping seems in place on both sides :shrugs:

Hey Colin, I’ll take a picture over the weekend for you. If for any reason I forget (I’m prone to that!) then reply on here or message me please….I’ve got notifications set up so it’ll be a reminder! 
 

Cheers Colin

Rich 

Depending on what I'm working I've seen this one a few times heading A361 from Devizes or A350 towards West Ashton

Sorry I didn't let you across the junction......you were just out of view until I came right around the corner - enough time for me to wave, but not enough space between me and the car behind me to safely apply my brakes to let you through! Looks pretty cool in black, not seen one in the flesh before!

8 hours ago, checkle91 said:

 

Did you get to the bottom of this? Just repaired my fans and now the drivers side fan is catching on the shroud somewhere when it gets hot and expands.

 

Both motors and fans went back in the same place, the fans were centralised and the nuts tightened.

Yeah, I basically had crosse threaded the bolt that holds the fan onto the motor (from memory), and when I tried to fix it I over tightened the working fan and sheared the bolt (I’m useless at anything manly!!).  So ended up buying a replacement fan set and shroud from…..erm….Torqen I think. 
 

sorry, not much help to you. 

....may have been a 370 - I’m @*!# with vehicle recognition!

I was pulling out of a field gateway about 5pm today. 

Fantastic guide. Thanks. 
Only took me 6 hours - think that’s probably a forum record!

Took it for a test drive - all working dandy, get it back, lift the bonnet to check one last time - AND ONE OF THE FANS IS KNOCKING!!!!! AAARRRGGGHHH. 

Anyone else had this? I’m assuming I’ve not done one of the bolts up properly 🤷‍♂️

Hijacking the thread (sorry!) - what are the thoughts of covers? Do they protect or do they potentially do more harm than good (condensation/mould etc)............I have no idea, I am just asking because I see various posts on caravan sites (double sorry - yes, I am a caravan owner *hands head in shame*) and some people recommend against caravan covers due to scratching/mould etc etc.

Am just curious to see if anyone has first hand experience of using covers (Zed, not caravan!)

Back to you though, the cover that Paul posted looks great though - easy to fit and remove.

@Forrest did you ever get your issue sorted?

19 hours ago, Stutopia said:

If the pedal dance is giving you lights you can’t read, get a cheap code reader and plug it in. I’d get one with a cable a cut out the phone Bluetooth/Wi-Fi and get it read. For £20 it’ll be useful for ages. All you have to be careful of is that it’s different reader for jap imports.

I've got a bluetooth OBDII reader which I've connected and it doesn't give any error codes. The device does work though as it has a feature where it gives live readouts on things like engine temp, throttle position and %, revs etc.

17 hours ago, Kieran O'Quick said:

Has your car had any mods? 

No mods (unless you count my 350z dust caps I put on )

17 hours ago, marzman said:

Did you drive it or leave it running after that one time it started, or just shut it off fairly soon after?  Could be flooded (again) potentially.  Try pulling the fuel pump fuse, turning the key and let it crank for 30 seconds, return the fuse and retry.  This should dispel any excess fuel.

 

Although i expect your mechanic would have tried that already...

Yeah when it started I drove it for a full week before it happened again!

17 hours ago, marzman said:

And is a valet key even supposed to start the car?  I always thought they just unlocked it so it could be valeted...? 

Yup - my wife uses this key all the time when I take my key to work and leave the car at home

52 minutes ago, Azurez33 said:

Might sound stupid but have you tried replacing the battery in your key fob? we get this at work a lot eg car can’t read key code signal because it’s too weak etc... I’d advise making sure you have a back up key to try it on first before you try the  “primary key” 

No, I haven't tried this to be fair - but I have tried the spare key (the one with no buttons - think it's called a valet key) and that doesn't start it either, so I've ruled out being a key problem - but that doesn't mean I am not willing to try anything at this stage!

So, I will order a battery for the key fob to see if it works

On 29/09/2018 at 19:48, danielb186 said:

Found it someome had been messing about with the main engine loom, fed the wires back through the hole in the firewall, didn't bother to put a grommet back on it  all this because of that!

 

Ill get a grommet tomorrow, and Hopfully that'll fix my issue!

Hi @danielb186 did you get this sorted in the end?

35 minutes ago, ShortPaul said:

Did you ? 

...nooo... I don't like Pm'ing people - it feels instrusive lol. Does he mind?

Also - just been out to the car - AND IT BLOODY WELL STARTED!!!!

So, I think I've narrowed down the issue:

When it was failing to start, my red immobiliser light was staying on even after turning the key.

When it started just now, the red light went out when I turned the key!

So, I though the red light was meant to stay on when you attempt to start it - evidently not! So, I assume that this is likely to be some kind of immobiliser issue?

On 08/02/2021 at 21:36, Azurez33 said:

Hmm could be down to the pump when it gets cold then,  however could be crank or cam sensor aswell 

If that's the case (in regards to the pump) is there a way of fixing/preventing this? Or does it require a new pump?

I plan on spending the weekend working through my list of things that I've cobbled together from various similar posts on this forum:

NATS - check for water ingress

Crank Sensor - remove connector and clean with electrical contact cleaner (will probably do this with every connector I can easily find under the bonnet lol)

IDPM - check for loose connects/obvious breaks.

Clutch pedal - check that the button that it presses to allow engine to start, is depressing correctly!

As above, i tried the pedal dance and it doesn't seem to give me a code I understand (2 slow, 6 fast, 2 slow).

So I've just gone and tried the ECU error code pedal dance trick - and the flashing reply was a little weird and unexpected.

So, 2 slow flashes, 6 fast flashes, 2 slow flashes

Stevezzz - yeah possibly no fuel getting through....but it's just trying to work out if that's due to a mechanical issue or an electrical one.

1 minute ago, stevezzz said:

the weird thing i noticed in your video is the showing over 14v before running 

Possibly because at the time I was filming the video was when it was connected to my wifes car trying to jump start it - could that explain the extra volts?

So, went to start the car this morning (0 degrees c), having driven it all last week until Friday - and guess what?! SAME ISSUE! Wouldn't start!

So, called out breakdown this evening, who took a look, and says that the fuel pump is kicking in, and that he doesn't know what is causing the issue, but thinks it could be one of two things:

1) The immobiliser.  We both noticed that even after turning the key in the ignition, the red light flashes rapidly a few times, before remaining lit.

2) The krank sensor.

He then left.

So, I'm about to trawl through the forum to see if I can find an answer/solution to either of these - but if anyone has anything that can help, shout!

Cheers

Rich

On 07/02/2021 at 17:56, Azurez33 said:

It’s not water getting somewhere it shouldn’t is it? Down in my engine bay fuse box I had to strip out because it was getting corroded and causing issues, it’s right next to the battery 

I had the battery out last week, and under the battery plate/seat/bracket (whatever it's called) there was a small amout of water, but there was no sign of corrosion down there, and I lifted the black box that is clipped just infront of the battery (I think it was a fuse holder) and there was no obvious sign of rusting there

On 04/02/2021 at 10:22, Stutopia said:

 

Could be weird NATS quirk after the battery was replaced. Hope it's gone for you.

 

Only time mine wouldn't start was cam position sensor, but that did chuck a proper error.

What's NATS?

Yeah, no error codes thrown up, and like your situation (read in the voice of Keith Lemon, who says it in the voice of Eamon Holmes!) I would expect a code to appear for something like that.

More cold weather due this week - so lets see if the cold weather causes a repeat (although it wasn't really cold on the day I replaced the battery, so I don't think it was dense fuel Olly).

Will update you all (crying) if it throws a fit in the week.

Thanks agaoin everyone for taking the time to read, and reply :-)  Stay safe all..............and no meets ups during lockdown - especially not opposite the nick like the group in Nottingham (or wherever it was) last week!

41 minutes ago, Olly350z said:

That sounds like it was flooded, which would happen with repeated starting attempts 

But the repeated attempts starting it (prior to new battery) were about a week ago - so wouldn't the flooded fuel have evapourated by the time I went to try it with the new battery yesterday?

So, update! Radomness warning!

Fitted new battery yesterday........was doing EXACTLY the same as it was before. Tried it a few times just to make sure fuel had chance to get through the system etc.....but just couldn't get it to start.

Went out today, connected my OBDII reader, just to see if it threw anything up before I resigned myself to getting the garage to come and tow it away...........turned the key - started!! O M F G!!!!

I am hoping that it was a gremlin and that I needed to lock and unlock the doors having fitted the new battery, in order to magic something into life - but this seems unlikely.

Anyway, thanks for your help everyone, fingers crossed it will start again in the morning!!

3 minutes ago, jase4072 said:

Can you hear the fuel pump when you first turn the key, sounds like fuel isn't getting through?

 

Just a thought.

Jase, what does the fuel pump sound like? Is it the slight electronic whirring noise you hear as you turn the key?  If so, yet I can hear it.

Hi Gents,

Well, after working a 89 hour week last week, I finally got around to changing the battery this evening after work. I bought  an "upgraded" one as per other threads on the forum. Well, after having to remove the battery tray half way through fitting because I dropped a spanner down there (TWICE!!!) I finally replaced the battery - taking me a record breaking time of 1hr :-)

Anyway - TL;DR The changing of the battery has not fixed the issue.

Any further advice?

I've checked, and the red flashing immobiliser light goes out when I turn the key, so its not that (I assume).

So I'm guessing fuel or ignition, but I am not sure where to start.

Thanks gents. Much appreciate you taking the time out to answer. I'll start with the battery

Ah, interesting! Hadn't really noticed that lol. It sounded like there was enough juice going through (as after 7 or 8 attempts prior to hooking up the jump leads I could hear the battery dying then), so I am wondering if the battery was not the issue originally, but then trying to get it started drained the battery? Or, it could have been the battery from the very beginning - but wouldn't the voltage meter on the dash have shown less than 12v? Or does it not work like that?