Reg97

22 minutes ago, Mikey_S said:

If the clutch travel distance is annoying you, adjust the clutch pedal, I recently did this and made my Z a lot nicer to drive. 

 

A friend of mine also replaced his side indicators with juke or quasquai smoked ones that light up similar to the back of new vw's and audis, - - - -, he picked these up cheap On ebay but look great. 

 

Inexpensive mods

I hadn’t thought about the clutch pedal. Yeah there’s something the clutchbut I couldn’t pinpoint what I didn’t like.

i thought it was the norm maybe as this is my first “sports car”

Just now, ballistic said:

Thanks mate, was a bit unsure before i did it,  but i really like how it turned out.

 

As for the wheels, no spacers, just the right offset to produce that fitment.

What wheels are they? Been debating getting my Rays Powder Coated (anthracite maybe?) or some new wheels altogether... although I might go for some used wheels if I can find some, don’t fancy spending the best part of a grand on alloys lol

Just now, G1en@waxandshine said:

Cougerstore is closest to you i think for service. Used to take mine there but they cant do “lowered” cars last time i spoke to Mitz. So Horsham developments have done last two and can also do the up-rev tuning. 

Cracking mate thank you! Not currently lowered so they should’nt have any issues! 
 

horsham are very far from me (140mile away!) so cougar store it is.

ive noticed they’ve not been on the forums for a couple of years now

ill give them a bell on Monday and see if they’re still operating  

thanks again mate 

Just now, ballistic said:

Nice, good enough to reduce the bright red of the rear light housing. If you use a good quality tint, they let out plenty of light.

 

Ive seen those cascading rear LEDs, theyre expensive though.

 

Heres mine (including dreaded wiper delete  lol):

 

Wow that looks nice,

Beautiful motor

the rear bottom lights look a lot darker than mine, I really like them!

im starting to warm to a wiper delete now... oh dear.

it looks like you’re running spacers, what size are they?

1 minute ago, G1en@waxandshine said:

The most common problems on a HR 350z and stuff i have had to do (sometimes more than once)

in no particular order

 

Front banana arm bushes -uprate To superpro or similar if they need doing, also Main diff bushing prone to leaking. can go a step further and uprate anti-roll bars, after market offer adjustability. The more poly bushes you fit, the greater feel/handling. 

 

W brace underneath - rusts away every 5-7 years or so, again aftermarket options are available. 
 

Oil gallery gaskets - these will need doing at some point in the cars life but varies from 50-150k and its a big expense. 
 

Exhaust - standard one is heavy, rust prone and low noise, many many aftermarket choices. 
 

CSC and clutch - seems to fail when you least want it to. Full uprated kits available inc single mass flywheels. 

suspension - will be showing its age, good upgrade for looks and handling if you get a good coilover kit. For extra expense, adjustable camber arms and toe bolts for optimum alignment options once fitted. 
 

oil and fluids - car may have a full service history but some non yearly fluids may have been overlooked - gearbox oil, diff oil, power steering fluid, brake/clutch fluid, coolant. I would recommend putting in high temp clutch/brake (same stuff) fluid. Also new spark plugs and air filters if required. 
 

brakes - braided lines help prevent spongy feel along with above. New uprated pads can feel night and day to cheap ones. Discs if they seem past their best. Lots of conflicting reports on which are best Disc type, i have had plain, grooved, drilled and slotted etc just get a reputable make. 
 

Tyres - the single most cost effective way to transform the car pound for pound in my view. Get a premium driver focussed tyre for maximum grip, feel and smiles. 
 

Other than that, check for rust and treat now to prevent it getting worse, Getting a re-map improves throttle response and drive-ability thats your starter list for 10. Sure there will be things i have missed but you can easily see why your bank balance can rapidly diminish. 

 

Absolutely brilliant list! Thank you sir!

to touch on a few of these, it does have poly bushings on the car at certain places (fitted in the past 3 years) 

gearbox and diff oils were done 25k ago, time to be done again I think. 

pads are Hawk Performance, discs are grooved and slotted.

remap and exhaust is certainly on the list.

im going to take it to a ‘specialist’ (any suggestions? (I’m in Staffs) for a health check. Any money left over will go towards a remap and exhaust I thinks

2 minutes ago, ilogikal1 said:

Haha, don't get too disheartened, so long as you like them - it's your car after all.

 

I'm not really a fan of light tints either, but I really (really) hate eyelids on any car myself. I just don't "get" them at all.

I was always like that, never liked the look of them normally. 
 

but on my zed I just think it makes the front look a lot more “aggressive”

my car before this was a 1.4L Vauxhall Corsa SRI.... I did absolutely 0 mods to that car (contrary to expectations of Corsa owners haha)

its always a case of “each to their own”. For example; I’m not a fan of rear wiper deletes myself which is a common thing to see

12 minutes ago, ballistic said:

Thats not my car BTW lol

 

Got any pics of the rear tints  you did? Ive done the same recently, i went with 'medium' tints

 

I was also considering DRLs, maybe the LEDs on the rear too (at some point)

This is the only picture I have currently, but I’ll pop outside and grab another picture in a sec for ya. Lights are both a “dark smoke” I had planned to get darker on the lower lights, but they are the only rear indicator... so it’s a difficult one.

the front DRL and the Rear Leds I’ve seen look great. (I’ve seen some rear “cascading” leds, kinda like on new Audi’s etc)

a wrap in the meantime is much less expensive and or time consuming though

Just now, ballistic said:

@Reg97 Nice motor. Eyelids are a polarizing mod, i think they can look good with other cosmetic mods. If you like em, keep em, cant all go around with the same opinion 

 

 

Thanks mate,

that’s a very pretty example there.

i think I’d prefer them matched to body colour rather than the current “carbon” that they are...

They were advertised as gloss black with the colour code of my car, but hey... that’s China for ya

7 minutes ago, Samoht said:

 

I would suggest you read about Mark Riccioni's experiences with "Terrible Disappointing Insufferable Tuning" before going somewhere with those initials...

http://www.speedhunters.com/2020/04/project-thirty-four-lifting-head-gt-r-ownership/

“It smoked so much on boost I could’ve scribbled out ‘RB26’ and replaced it with ‘Cummins’“

Very good write up. I think I’ll give that particular unnamed garage a miss.

thanks for that! Is there anywhere else you’d recommend? I’m in Staffordshire. Although I’m certainly happy with a ride out.

The only bits I’ve done so far;

tints to rear window and rear lights as well as front reflectors (considered getting the DRL versions?)

the “tacky plastic bits” on the front headlights

and a touch screen head unit (currently the thing that is draining my battery at 4amps (taking radio fuse out drops it to 1amp (still high I think so possibly something else as well))

next on the list;

spacers (20mm front and 25mm back)
lowering springs (OEM shocks are supposedly pretty good from what I hear... but maybe coilovers instead)

need to get a health check done first though.

Just now, ilogikal1 said:

First thing I’d do? Get rid of the tacky plastic tat glued to the headlights. 
 

The clicking on turning could just be a brake shield on the front; determine which side it’s coming from and simply bend the shield back away from the brake disc a little bit. Common issue on these.

That hurt... that’s something I added

although in honesty, I wasn’t 100% keen on them but they’re growing on me...
 

I did check that, but it persists after a big fast turn and seems to click at the speed of the axle (slower is slower click etc)

2 minutes ago, ZMANALEX said:

Depending on the service history I would consider getting a major service and a full vehicle health check done by a 350Z specialist and CS comes into that category.

 

Engine, Gearbox, VLSD, Wheel Bearings, Brakes, Tyres, Suspension, Steering etc will all fall into that category.

 

Also get them to check the engine gallery gaskets which are prone to failure on the HR and will effect the oil pressure and performance.

 

The OEM stock CSC is prone to total failure at the most inconvenient time, if it has not been uprated, so keep that in mind.

 

All this is routine maintenance and once that is all sorted then let the modifications begin.

Thank you very much!

gallery gasket was something I wondered about when I got the car. But oil pressure was okay on dials. 
 

and I remember seeing a replacement slave cycliner in the service history but I think that was around 30k miles.

really appreciate the info mate 

I’ve heard of TdiNorth and they’re only about 30mile from me, might try them as well

thanks again 

Just now, ATTAK Z said:

Nice car and welcome to our club ... Break upgrade is a good mod so you can stop faster

definitely brakes! Hawk Performance pads on there but about 3 months old, grooved and slotted discs if that makes a difference as a daily (not exactly gonna start overheating lol)

Hey guys,

Bought my 350z about 4 weeks ago now, absolutely loving it and ive made very minor (none-performance) changes

The only problem so far has been some battery issues im working out (something to do with the new head unit i fitted) and a clicking that happens every so often (turning the wheel sharply while going quickly (Like on roundabout))

But anyway, Its my daily driver, a 2007 (HR), 68k miles and has a full service history.

Im wondering;

 what you would check/change/upgrade first to get it in tiptop order?

 Im happy to spend a couple grand getting the important bits done, to prevent future heartbrake.

Im hoping that when the garages are back open (Is cougar store still operating?) i can get it assessed and they can give me a proffessional answer to that question,

heres a pic 

Hmmmm, might be the one ive just taken out that youre after! ill be home in 20 mins to check for you mate

On 31/03/2020 at 17:01, mr v6 said:

You should have 2 blue wires (I think) on the original car harness, one for the amp turn on & the other is for the power aerial. I connected the amp one up to the amp labelled one (as per your pic), and the other to the power aerial.

I’ve only got the one... 99% sure. Unless I’m blind... it’s just a single wire running between the 2 black connectors on the stock harness...

I believe I connected the blue and white bullet on the picture above to the ignition turn on...

im now having battery drain issues cause by the radio and I believe it may be due to this. 

a bit lost here haha

Hi guys,

installed a new head unit a couple of weeks ago now, over the past couple of days ive found it’s draining battery (had the car sitting for a day, whereas usually I drive it every single morning) 

used a multimeter and unplugged fuses and it’s the radio!

however, this is as far as my limited knowledge takes me... it’s a Sony XAV1000 headunit. I followed the guide (I think correctly?) all was working fine, the head unit was turning off with the car. Is it possible that the amp is staying on?

any guidance would be great (nearest electrical garage to me is a bit of an overcharging con artist)

Bit of a funky one, but hoping someone help,

installed a Sony XAV1000 using this guide, went well for the most part, other than some issues getting sound

however, I’ve got a parasitic drain caused by the Radio now. It kills the battery in about 24hours of standing. (And removing the engine bay fuse for the radio does stop the drain)

is there anything I should check first?

Ayup lads and lasses,

currently getting some black bits for my black zed.

just fitted some eyebrows (although they’re carbon coloured and I’m not 100% keen) and I’ve got tints, and door handles and rear light wrap booked for this weekend!

looking at front headlights, is there anywhere that does either customs? Or painting the insides black and maybe adding a halo LED?

Did a search but it mainly dig up old threads!

cheers gents

cheeky pic also;

Im hoping somebody sees this and can help out;

Sony xav-ax1000...

in car tech loom, trying to sort the “blue and white” wire for amp turn on... 

only problem is, the blue and white wire on the HU loom is just a single wire running between the black connectors. (As appears to the split wire shown on the tutorial on these forums)

do I need to split this wire with one end going to the ICT blue and white amp white? And the other end going to where it’s going now... 

hope this makes some sense

In car tech have closed up shop temporarily mate, ordered a harness in the end, it is an in car tech one, just ordered from elsewhere.

 Didn’t come with a fascia though, so I’ve got to wait for that now! 
 

thanks mate

before you tell me, yes ive seen the guide!

but honestly, it looks god awfully complicated in a Zed and electrics has never been my strong suit anyway. (Missus is a sparky, is that emasculating?)

Did a head unit upgrade on my old corsa, but i wasnt worried about losing screws or snapping clips on that, or messing with grounding points or anything, but i really dont want to hurt my precious new toy.

So... If i was to grab all of the parts in the parts list on the guide, Is there anywhere i can go (Staffordshire based, although i dont mind a drive  ) for a fitting?

its a 2007 (HR) with the Bose Stereo (GT)

Alternatively; tell me that the guide and youtube vids look way more complicated than it is! 

cheers lads.

P.s. still not got round to posting up welcome pics of the new motor, needs a proper detailing first, since theres 13 years worth of sub-par washing been going on by the looks. 

Yeah seems to only occur when turning the wheel a good turn (think small roundabout or tight bend) And then persists for a few moments.... 

reckon it’s something the lads at Cougar Store could have a look at? Are they on here at all does anybody know? 

4 minutes ago, coldel said:

I got it on my car, the best way to get it to click is to drive next to a wall in first gear and throttle on and off with the windows open, you can much easier hear the noise bouncing back at you. 

Im more interested in not hearing the click! Lol

im assuming it’s not axel related then if you can cause it with the car at a standstill.

ill have a listen tommorow 

4 minutes ago, Ponsonby said:

Someone may be along soon to suggest what the problem may be. Does not sound like 'clicky axle' but clicky axle can affect all models including 370Z.

Tarmac Sportz in Derby are excellent and you will always get good, honest advice from Bob. 

Ahh, just took it on another drive and didn’t notice it at all. Definitely intermittent

will give Tarmac Sportz a call at some point this week, cheers mate