Reg97

41 minutes ago, alexgv1 said:

I’m nearly 30 and had my license for years and I couldn’t even get insured for a test drive when buying my Z.
 

Once I bought it, I wanted to declare the mods so rang Flux, Greenlight, Brentacre etc and I could only get a quote with Flux which was reasonable. The rest wanted 1yr RWD experience... where do you draw the line?
 

I’ve driven some Beamers without randomly spinning out but never owned one. Does having driven a 118i really help with a 350Z  I’m just taking the hit for the first year but maybe you could go down that path, mine never specified “powerful/performance”. Maybe I’ll get some better quotes on renewal, I don’t daily the car so the miles aren’t that high. 

it was 5 months ago now, but I’m pretty sure green light specified RWD 200+hp.

insurance has always been silly, oh well

10 hours ago, davey_83 said:

Exactly the same was said to me, I had 8yrs no claims and swapping mid term from a hot hatch to a 350z Adrian Flux said they'd prefer if I had 12 months experience with a performance rwd car. Ending up going with Hastings direct for the first 12 months then to Sky Insurance then later back to Flux

That’s my current plan to be honest Davey, I’ve only had the car for about 5 months so far, fingers crossed it’s worth the wait in 7 months time.

41 minutes ago, Silverthorn said:

Greenlight was by far the best for me personally. Waaay cheaper than the best Flux culd offer me.

Greenlight was who I was referring to with the “1 year of experience”.

the bloke I spoke to on the forum said he used to be a forum member, really nice chap but unfortunately there’s nothing he could do.

4 minutes ago, Jack94 said:

Might be worth using a few different comparison sites if you haven't already?

I've always found using the exact same details on Confused rather than Compare The Market gives a cheaper price for Admiral (think this might be because Admiral own Confused.com). 

 

Obviously choosing your cover type just comes down to how much the risk is worth to you. 

 

In regards to whether or not insurers check certain details.. Personally I'd never lie, the last thing you want is to be in the situation where they won't pay a claim because you've not been honest. 

Confused.com is a good shout, I’ve only really ever used GoCompare and CompareTheMeerkat

and I agree with you on the lying. But I wasn’t sure if they’d ask for proof of previous car history - not really big on insurance knowledge myself. 
 

appreciate the advice mate 

2 minutes ago, Jack94 said:

Tried Admiral? I've been with them since I got my zed nearly 4 years ago (when I was also 22) . They never asked about pervious RWD experience and back then I paid £872 which I thought was very reasonable. 

Yeah, they were second “cheapest” after Hastings on comparethemarket so I rang them for a proper quote (as sometimes they are different to what they’ll offer via price comparison... quote for fully comp was £1550.

i can get very cheap quotes (£700ish) if I go Third Party Fire and Theft only... but it’s a risk at the end of the day

So I attempted to get an insurance quote for my 350z through one of the insurers on here when I first bought it back in March. I was told they couldn’t cover me until I had at least 1 years experience driving a “high power” RWD car.

im just wondering if they check this at all... I’m not going to mention them In case I decide to ring back, but at the moment I am paying out of the arse with Hastings (£1400/pa)

or are there any insurers on here with no requirements such as that? 
 

it is understandable as I’ve only had my license for 3 years (no claims or such) and I’m only a young boy (22)

any advice appreciated, cheers gents.

This was honestly my first ever meet. I had a 1.4 corsa only 4 months ago and would never have thought I’d have met some of the top people that I have so far right now. Absolutely Brilliant community.

10 minutes ago, The G Man said:

Exactly, hopefully no embarrassing non Covid complying ones 

Covid compliance was in order, plenty of elbow bumps instead of handshakes 

8 minutes ago, davey_83 said:

Plus something special coming out, please drop this dude a follow 

 

https://www.youtube.com/channel/UC1Sm6D-7sml7hOQd2dolA5Q

 

Can’t wait Davey

I’m not a big facebook fan myself but I’ve got more in to it lately, just for the Z groups.

fair few people about with some nice looking cameras so I can imagine there will be some cracking pictures up

Might be a bit late, but should be down tomorrow! Only just seen that this was going on!

stick Mr + Mrs Evans on the list lol

6 hours ago, Azurez33 said:

Hmm could be the sub then potentially, either that or the connection to the sub is faulty, maybe have to pull it apart and check resistance reading  

Bollocks. I aren’t that savvy to be honest. My lady’s a sparky but she doesn’t know cars/audio at all really. 
might be an ICE shop jobby, save me ****in summat up.

cheers mate, appreciate the help

4 hours ago, Azurez33 said:

The iso adapter you used is that for the Bose system? I had the same issue I bought an adapter from halfrauds but then had to buy a £30 adapter from this really good place on the internet (which I currently can’t remeber where is ) I also had to solder the wire for the remote on the steering wheel and volume etc 

Adapter is the right one as I checked with a few forum members, (incartec)  amp is working, the sub isn’t... I realised I said Amp in my other post, if the amp wasn’t working there would be no sound at all. But the sub is just not doing owt

12 hours ago, Azurez33 said:

You got a Bose sound system mate? 

Yes mate, I’ve sorted it now but I’ve got a new issue now. I snipped the bullet connector off the blue and white wire and joined it in to where another blue and white connected on the plugs for the HU.

works fine and is no longer drawing power when ignition is not on.... but now the amp behind the drivers seat isn’t working, any Bass in songs is non existent really. 

Hi guys,

installed a radio months ago,

hooked it up according to a tutorial on here but had the blue and white amp remote bullet connector (in pics below) left out. I connected it to the double bullet yellow wire but I believe that’s a constant 12v, so it was draining my battery. For the past few months I’ve just had to keep my radio fuse out and stick it in whenever I fancy it (basically just on long trips) and then take it out when I get home (or the battery drains overnight)

im out of ideas to be honest and I’m hoping somebody can help, local ICE store doesn’t seem interested to be honest. Any ideas?

Just now, Mikey_S said:

Called my local today, cars booked in for next week, full works, sparks, belts and all fluids . (not wanting to rub it in, just this thread prompted me to make the call and check). 

 

Nice one mate,

ive got a very brief booking on Thursday, Chris at Tarmac is doing me a

massive favour and is going to have a look for me. Hoping it’s just the usual “grease the axle splines” fix to be honest.

Do hope it’s not a dear one lol

42 minutes ago, Ekona said:

Must be a local garage to you open? No real need for a specialist unless you’re convinced it’s something really difficult to diagnose, it’s not a particularly tricky car to figure out suspension-wise. 

To be honest, I don’t really know any that I trust. I’m always pretty cynical to be honest about places I don’t know and I’ve never met anyone mention a decent experience

53 minutes ago, ShortPaul said:

Have you try spraying all moving parts with wd 40 

Worth a shot I suppose ain’t it lol

Just now, pintopete58 said:

One of the guys on here is from stoke and he takes his for mot there

I’m from stoke lol,

had a suggestion from Mitz in the dms, if nothing comes from that I’ll take it for a run down there.

still at work at the moment though and the zed is my daily so it’s a little awkward on time for big trips.

32 minutes ago, ShortPaul said:

Pretty sure litchfield motors are up and running 

They’re a fair run from me (86 mile each way) so I might have a fish at somewhere else more local since cougar store are still closed at the moment. 

if they’re the only reputable place nearby that’s gonna be open anytime soon, I may have to bite the bullet and take a long drive down to them. Cheers mate

11 minutes ago, pintopete58 said:

Will have a drive by cougar store tomorrow and let you no

Save you a journey mate they’re still closed at the moment, thank you though!

2 minutes ago, MITZ@CougarStore said:

PM replied to...

cheers mitz 

Anybody know of any garages back open yet.

Creaking on the rear has started getting worse. I know it’s a multitude of things it could be, just want to get it sorted but honestly don’t fancy one of the dodgy standard mechanics near me.

had been looking at cougar store but I’ve not seen anything off them yet about when they’re back open. 
 

creaking is starting to P me off and it’s plenty loud enough that other drivers have heard it and mentioned it. So embarrassing lol

Hi guys,

wondering if anybody has some aftermarket alloys to sell to fit the 350z

5x114.3 8J 18inch

had a look in the Sale section but couldn’t see anybody selling at the moment,

cheers

edit: sorry should have mentioned I’m after Aftermarket, I’ve got a set of Rays in decent Knick if anybody’s after a swap or somethin

Followed this guide, was great other than some issues with my actual wiring supplied. I had no bullet connector for the blue/white (amp) and the only blue/white I had was just running from 1 connector to another. Only bullet connected wires were a yellow and red, and yellow had a double bullet connector. So I connected to the yellow, which I believe is 12v Ignition controlled.

anyway, radio is constantly drawing 3mv (tested at the engine bay fuse) even when off. I believe it’s draining the battery. I am hopeless when it comes to car electrics... any suggestions? Or anyone in Staffordshire willing to sort it for me? Haha (will pay of course)

Just now, arif_manji said:

Any luck mate?

Forgot to get back to you, Sorry mate! 
 

just checked, it’s unfortunately not the one you’re after, good luck in finding one mate