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Ry-B

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Posts posted by Ry-B

  1. Looking good mate, great choice of wheel in my opinion and actually been toying with the idea of the 57DR in this size myself for a while now, so good to know they fit! Having said that if your LMGT4s came up for sale I might have to reconsider...

     

    I think the bronze would look good as I really like it on my Kuro black but certainly not an urgent change 

  2. 1 hour ago, Ekona said:

    Very surprised they didn’t do a static test, I’ve never done an MSV day where they didn’t do one

     

    I think they must of changed it last year, If I remember correctly I done 3 trackdays at Bedford last year. 2 with MSVT and 1 with Javelin and they only done a static test at the Javelin one.

     

    @FancyTeapot if you are really worried about it and located near to Bedford you should be able to pop down to an upcoming trackday and ask for a noise test. Or picking up a cheap decibel meter yourself will give you a rough idea

  3. Done a few trackdays at Bedford with a Cobra non-res system and stock Cats, didn't have any issues with the static test or drive by. My mate with High Flow Cats and Cobra resonated system did get a couple of warnings as he was coming close to the Drive by limits but they are reasonable and work with you 

  4. Not the type of wheel you are looking for but hopefully gives you an idea of bronze on a black 350, this is a very light bronze and I think a gold/ dark bronze would look great, I'll keep an eye out for when the Enkei are up for sale 

     

    bedford_cropped.jpg.82ada5bfa97e3ecf99d12d115737877c.jpgside_350z_crp.jpg.6f473a317eb366bbe3f8c691dca4b966.jpg

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  5. I needed to replace the tyres when I bought my 350z and went with Kumho PS71 which were just over £400 fitted. I've done about 4000 miles and 4 track days on them (2 of them wet days) but personally I'm very happy with them, I think they provided great grip on them days, the current road conditions, and wear seems to be very good with plenty of life left. So I'll probably buy them again when the time comes!

     

    I did look at PS4 but decided that the £200 odd difference was better spent on good pads and brake fluid so I didn't have any issues on track. As others have said you don't  want to forget about things like Alignment, worn bushings, brakes, etc. Personally the last thing I would want to do is put expensive tyres on and the car still feel terrible/ tyres not last as the alignment is out or bushings are worn

  6. On 26/12/2021 at 21:03, Azurez33 said:

    I decided to strip out the rear arches and re under seal them and also to check for rust- sadly a very small hole was found so I had patch that up and seal over it too! Stripped it all the way back to metal where I could!

     

    Just reading through and looks good so far! Just wondering what you used to take it back to bare metal? assume it needs something a bit more serious than a wire wheel? 

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  7. Mix of both from what I remember,  started with a breaker bar and from memory it didn't feel great more like I was bending the whole stud rather than twisting the nut unless I was on my back pushing on the socket and pulling the bar with the other hand. So went on to impact which struggled a bit (had to keep stopping as the nut was getting so hot) but like I said I was working with tacky thick underseal which was clogging up the threads big time :D

     

    I took some photos so can dig them out if you want to show how I was setup and working 

  8. Mine weren't rusty as the previous owner had put a thick underseal on all the nuts and threads, but I did have to go through the pain of wire bushings and release fluid to get it all off. You just want to be careful when breaking them and taking them off as the last thing you want to do is snap the stud, one of mine got stuck near the bottom of the thread and I just ended up cutting the nut off and buying new ones from Torqen (was planning to replace them anyway). Once the pin stay and subframe is out then you have full access to clean the thread up so shouldn't be any issues going back on

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  9.  

     

    I dropped my subframe on my drive about February last year to replace bushings and clean up rust, the drive certainly isn't flat and only had the rear of the car on axle stands anyway so the car itself wasn't level. I had a second pair of hands to help when actually removing the subframe and putting it back in, there wasn't really any issues lowering the subframe but using a trolley jack to lift the subframe up we did need to tilt and reposition a lot to get it back in

     

    What I will say is when it comes to rust treatment its always a bigger job than you think, If you gone to length to drop the subframe out you want to do a proper job so I spent a long under the car wire-wheeling. Something I didn't account for and looking to go back and do is removing the fuel tank as it stops you reaching/ treating a lot of the areas (from my understanding you need to remove the subframe to remove the fuel tank)

     

     

     

     

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  10. I'll have a crack until others who probably know more than me come along 

     

    Do you check your oil regularly and if so is it going down? Do you have to top the car up a lot?  This would be the easiest way to tell if you are burning oil in my opinion

     

    What colour is the smoke on hard acceleration and start up?

     

    Generally cars will use a bit of oil especially after the age and mileage most of the 350z are now  

  11. Please find for sale my 350z Cobra Exhaust 

     

    I removed this from the car due to a rattle which at the time I didn't have time to investigate, but in hindsight should of waited until I had time as I believe the issue is just the tailpipes (I have videos of what it sounds like and what I believe is causing the issue which I can send). The rattle for me occurred on start up and low speed manoeuvres such as taking off from traffic lights etc but otherwise sounds amazing and really gives that great VQ Sound.

     

    I am looking for £215 for the exhaust - Collection from Bracknell

     

    Thank you for looking

     

     

    Cobra1.jpg.34bf2ccebe7e4f13f144280158b24cb9.jpg

     

    Cobra3.jpg.5654cec01d194cc6435567c53d25a2cd.jpg

     

    Cobra2.jpg.721e4e2e072647142e1443e7bd319ddc.jpg

     

     

  12. 12 hours ago, bytespc said:

    looks fab, mine arrived yesterday, what did you use to smooth it in and what size nozzle did you use for the application ?, sorry for all the questions I've never attempted anything like this before.

     

    No worries, I think I used the smallest or second from smallest nozzle I guess start with the smallest and see how you get on as you can also move to the next size if needed. For smoothing it out anything with a flat Sharp edge should do, I found smoothing from the windshield out to the A pillar gave a better finish then going down the length of the windshield if that makes sense

  13. Hi All,

     

    Excuse how filthy the car is as it needs a good wash. On the motorway the other day I noticed a lot of wind noise around the driver side, I checked the window which looks fine, however, looking at the windshield trim it doesn't go all the way to the edge which to me explains the wind noise at motorway speeds.

     

     

    windowtrim.jpg.050f2193c10731dbab47e5aeb776da56.jpg

     

     

    I Assume the trim across the top of the windshield can be replaced on it own, but reading other threads it seems the whole A pillar needs to be replaced to replace the trim on them? which also look like they are starting the fail :(

     

     

     

     

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