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Nardo_Z

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    Intermediate NA Performance Mods

    in Performance

    Posted

    4 hours ago, Ekona said:

    Silly question and perhaps a tad off topic, but have you done the brakes, tyres and suspension yet? They’ll make you go much quicker than another 20bhp will. 

    Not a silly question mate. I've done these already to be honest. I've got wider stickier Michelin 4s, HSD coilovers, EBC pads & discs with some custom cooling ducting, and a pro alignment job. Lightweight flywheel and fast road clutch too. SO the driveability is good.

     

    I'm not really specifically looking for HP gains as such, it's rapid in the bends but feels like it wanes a bit pulling out of mid speed corners and mid speed on straights. 

     

    A diet is also on the cards for her.

     

    12 minutes ago, msitpro said:

    As Mark has elaborated on - 'short' rather than long tube headers like my DC sports then fit standard DE cats (or HR if you buy HR compatible headers) - or DE HFC as I have. Beware that a single HFC cat on each branch will likely only just squeak past MOT limits on CO % for a year or two. I'm having a second HFC after the bend, as the OEM cat unit have - 2 mantles.

     

    'Long tube' headers are designed for either no cats, or something custom fitment after that. (which isn't difficult for a custom exhaust place to do - order some Magnaflow or HJS if you feel fancy)

     

    On the cams - a fair bit yeah - Mark might be best to answer better regards to emissions / MOT testing with cams. Although I suspect what he'll say is any customer he knows with higher duration cams are running without cats and pay off their tester if it's a road car :)

     

    You can work out overlap versus OEM if that's your thing by Googling 'Jim Wolf VQ35 cam card' and look at the PDF that comes up.

    Thanks mistpro

     

    I have a single HFC on each branch and I JUST get through MOTs and in the two years I've had it I've needed to replace them already. :-( 

     

    Yeah that was my thinking I wonder if a set of long tubes then some custom HFC mid point would do the trick, wouldn't then necessarily be limited to those designed for 350s so could perhaps go for slightly bigger ones. But that has it's own implications. 

     

    I know it's a potentially expensive option but if I'm serious about an intermediate NA build I could look to have an ECU that facilitates a "road" and a "track day" map that would allow me to run this kind of set up and still be able to do it on the road. Although I guess that could be super tricky to not run into issues and damaging said engine. I'm into the dark side well beyond my knowledge now......

     

    18 minutes ago, msitpro said:

     

    You can work out overlap versus OEM if that's your thing by Googling 'Jim Wolf VQ35 cam card' and look at the PDF that comes up.

    Genius, thanks chap

     

    • Like 1

    Intermediate NA Performance Mods

    in Performance

    Posted

    17 hours ago, Mark@Abbey m/s said:

    The only headers worth fitting are PPE long tube headers with the merge collectors, we tried the HR headers type on the DE they never give much more than 5 to 10 bhp which isn't good for the costs/time.

     

    Thanks AM!

     

    With the long tubes where do you put the HFCs? Do you put them mid point somewhere with a custom fabricated pipe? 

     

    When you tested the long tubes what power & driveability gains did you see?

    Intermediate NA Performance Mods

    in Performance

    Posted

    Hi msitpro!

     

    Sorry for the slow response but many thanks for the detailed response and advice, much appreciated! 

     

    On 21/04/2020 at 23:28, msitpro said:

    Equal length tubular headers like those on the HR (see DC sports) will take it to around 265-270whp with tune. About the same as a stock 370Z makes and about 15whp up on a stock HR on a dyno. Roughly 305-315bhp. Around £1200 all in job if you're paying for labour on top of parts.

    On the equal length tube headers do they fit with the standard CAT position or are you into custom CATs and y-pipe shapes/locations? It'll be a DIY job for me, I enjoy the process of constantly swearing at the car and cutting my hands to buggery, although looking at the manifold locations this could be a real tough one.

     

    On 21/04/2020 at 23:28, msitpro said:

    264°-272° cams will see it to 290-305whp, roughly 330-350bhp. I guess £2000 for parts, labour and tuning.

    Question on this, do you know if there's significant overlap running on these durations? 

     

    Cheers,

    James

     

    Intermediate NA Performance Mods

    in Performance

    Posted · Edited by Nardo_Z

    Hi all,

     

    I've got an 05 DE, to date the power/drivetrain mod's I've got are (mixture of bought with and done myself):

    • Full Intake
    • Plenum Spacer
    • Berk HFC
    • Custom 3" cat-back
    • Lightweight flywheel
    • Fast road clutch

     

    I will be going to Horsham over the summer to have dyno run and map done but I want to do as many upgrades as I can pre-that so I can have it mapped in final state. So my question is, where to go next?

     

    What does a DE Z benefit from beyond the above? (I'm not in the price/effort range of stroker/high comp pistons range) The thoughts I have flying around in my head are:

    • Port and polish
    • Cams (expensive) - its a weekend car though so happy to go a touch more aggressive (but need to bare in mind light flywheel)

     

    Does anyone have some suggestions about what might be my next step, not looking for huge gains obviously but a little here and there with some added "drive-ability" would be cool. Also looking to keep myself busy during lockdown. 

     

     

    For context I also have: EBC discs & yellowstuff pads (all around), wider (275 rear 245 front) Michelin 4s tyres, HSD coilovers, braided lines, short shifter, strut braces - so these all add to the drive-ability question but more from a handling perspective

     

    Thoughts and ideas from more experienced members would be greatly appreciated!

     

    Cheers,

    James

    Bright Orange 350z - M1 Southbound

    in Spotted or Flyered

    Posted

    On 05/07/2018 at 13:50, Erni902 said:

     

    Ah right whereabouts? Im based just off Jct 16 of the M1 not far from Daventry.

    I work at Rebull in MK about 3 days a week and am in the Gaydon/Leamington area 2-days and weekends. (I live near Southam) 

     

    Sometimes drive through Daventry on the way home from RB depending on traffic. :thumbs:

    Moly Slip - Stock LSD

    in Performance

    Posted

    1 hour ago, evilscorp said:

    I don't think I would add anything to the standard viscous diff as its designed for a certain viscosity liquid so you will throw it out, it may lock up earlier or later, as you say it could be the wheel bearing or the diff shims/ run-out on the ring gear might be slightly worn down and out of spec.

    My understanding is that it does not effect viscosity merely interface friction between the parts, but this is a really good point thanks for highlighting. I'll look into it. 

     

    1 hour ago, evilscorp said:

    the diff shims/ run-out on the ring gear might be slightly worn down and out of spec.

    Hmm good point. I'm hoping that I can try some stuff before we get to "start taking it apart" level 

     

    1 hour ago, evilscorp said:

    whats the condition of the oil filled bush on the rear of the diff? They tend to split and leak oil which could cause unwanted vibration.

    Not sure, good info on these I will check. First time Z'er so this info is ace.

     

    Thanks for the input evilscorp

     

     

    • Like 1

    Moly Slip - Stock LSD

    in Performance

    Posted · Edited by Hedgecase

    Hi all,

     

    My '05 350Z GT has got a little bit of drone from what I think is the rear diff. Could be wheel bearing if it was an unusual sounding wheel bearing. 

     

    A mate that is the chief mechanic for a historic rally team has recommended Moly Slip additive to the diff oil to bring friction down a bit (particularly as it is driven reasonably hard).

     

    https://products.liqui-moly.com/gear-oil-additive-5.html

     

    Has anyone got any experience of this?

     

    For clarity, diff oil is brand new and it is to the correct level ;-) 

     

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