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galaxyg

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Posts posted by galaxyg

  1. Hi All - Thanks for the comments and advice. I've had a number of offers on the car which were acceptable to me, so the next owner will now make the decisions instead. I can't keep it forever - I'm 50 now and there's a finite number of years ahead and a near-infinite number of interesting cars I've yet to own. If I'd have kept my Prelude I'd never have got the RX-8, and if I'd kept the RX-8 I'd never have got the 350Z. And so on into the future. As it is I've had the Z longer than the Prelude and RX-8 combined. 7 years is a good run and it'll still be the slowest depreciating car I've ever owned.

    • Like 4
  2. 25 minutes ago, davey_83 said:

    Doesn't sound too bad and the last few MOT's it's passed without bother, having done a few thousand miles between. Very much doubt the actual front subframe is beyond keeping, it'll more than likely be the front chassis brace which is bolt on/off for a decent used item. Same with the w brace in the middle, as the rear subframe is aluminium. 

     

    Brakes are wear and tear to which ever car will need them replacing. Considering you only paid £5000 for the car some 6yrs ago and have never replaced these items, mostly wear and tear I feel she at least deserves those.

     

    Thanks. This is one of the worst areas up at the front. I don't know much about these things but it looked to me/them like something non-removable?

     

    DSC_1815.JPG

  3. Hi,

     

    Looking for some advice. My 2005 350Z will fail it's MOT in a week's time and it's beyond economical repair to attempt anything with it. The subframe front and rear is too rusty which is enough by itself but the entire exhaust and all of the discs and pads are also too far gone. I figure some of the other parts of the car have some value and the engine has only done 108500 miles.  

     

    Are there people out there that regularly buy such things -  350Z specialists?. Better than just a "every car is the same" scrap price I'd hope.

  4.  

    On 23/06/2022 at 16:38, Coz@TORQEN said:

    -B1 will mean bank 1 so this is the one you need: 

     

    https://www.torqen.uk/nissan/350z/engine/electronics/1024-350z-nissan-oem-camshaft-sensor-rh-23731-6j90b.html

     

    We have one in stock so can get it sent out tomorrow if you'd like to order it (the couriers have already picked up for today). 

     

    Finally garage's guy is back from Covid. No more than an hour to fit they say, so I've now ordered the part on the link above, a few mins ago. Thanks again!

  5. They were reading a fault code on their machine, not inspecting the car as there wasn't time at the time. The diagnostic confirmed what the Foxwell machine I'd plugged in earlier had said. The ABS Stuff seems to be a red herring, caused down the line by the Cam sensor. Currently the fault is cleared though in another thread I've been advised it'll be back after 3 cold-hot-cold cycles. Foxwell results are below, if that tells anything about the bank.

     

    fault.jpg.42f460a4ac8a3f03d8632318a106e192.jpg

  6. 3 minutes ago, Azurez33 said:

    Hmm, well camshaft position sensors are common as hell on 350s, however you’d be best to check the wiring just incase, should have a 5v ecu feed and an earth aswell as a signal back which could be 2-5v back, I can see if I’ve got the testing data at work if you want? and don’t get a cheap quality sensor they never last/work. 

     

    Thanks for info, good to know and yeah sounds logical to start with engine not ABS. I have no idea where to start on the above however. 😀 I'm about as good with electrics as I am with mechanicals.   I can change a battery/fuse. Beyond that... (motions hand going over head).     Testing data might be useful though thanks, if I can figure out what I'm doing.

  7. On 15/05/2022 at 18:14, Azurez33 said:

    Just trying to eliminate certain bits as we’ve had a few whacky racers on here, just purely  from what you’ve described I’d say you might have an abs component failing ie “wheel speed sensor, abs ring” realistically you’d be best to get it hooked up to a diag scan tool to give you more details, 

     

     

    Quite some time later, I've finally got my hands on a tool and some time and run it, with the following results (image below)

     

    Which initially suggest ABS. At the same time I was running the diagnostic, the car did turn on the ABS light *and* the Stability light *and* the "slippery road" light. And then off again And then a while later on again. Repeat. Every time a small click from the car.

     

    Although a bit off Googling gives me a youtube link that suggests Camshaft Position Sensor Circuit Malfunction) C1130 will also cause an ABS light fault, even if the ABS is actually OK.  

     

    Any experience/advice welcome.

     

    fault.jpg.42f460a4ac8a3f03d8632318a106e192.jpg

     

     

  8. I was looking at the 62 current 350Zs on AutoTrader this morning. I bought my 2005 Z in 2016 for £5k (@ 96,000 miles) and in that time it's done about 10,000 more miles. It's also had a few thousand spent on in insofar as a clutch, flywheel (at Horsham developments), tyres, near-side banana bracket, W-brace, exhaust, pads, discs, re-trimmed steering wheel, new (OEM) gear knob, S2000 stubby aerial and such - all of which is documented.  The need for all that work likely explained the purchase price which was about £1K lower than any comparable Z nearby.

     

    But now - 6 years later, £5k still seems to be the entry price for a Z. And with more than 110K miles at that.   I've not been to AutoTrader for a while. Is this about normal these days?  Am I driving a somewhat-valuable "classic"?

     

    Michael.

     

  9. I've seen a very similar thread also going on here, although mine gives slights different symptoms. Was driving happily yesterday for about 40 minutes, then all three lights came on at once whilst waiting at a roundabout. No other effects, so I pulled over, turned off the car and restarted it - which it didn't do as easily as normal.

     

    Arrived destination, left car parked for a couple of hours. Started perfectly - engine light on, ESP/Slip not on.  15 mins down the road, a momentary drop of revs, ESP/Slip comes on, car then behaves as normal. If there's a limp mode, it can "limp" happily at 90mph as usual.

     

    Exact same "engine light first, plus the other two about 15 mins later" also occurred later the same day.  So I guess I need to get some kind of device to read what the fault is - I'm looking for suggestions on the device. I don't intend to be doing a lot of this kind of thing so whatever is the cheapest that is also actually useful. Suggestions welcome.

     

    Also suggestions for what might be  wrong with the Z also welcome.

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